240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

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240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby 9.ford.5 » Wed Aug 26, 2009 12:55 am

i heard someone say you can combine the 240 and the 300 to create a 329ci. I6? using the crank and rods from the 240 and the pistons from the 300...just wondering what this would involve cause it sounds like a good idea to me
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby worken2much » Wed Aug 26, 2009 1:26 am

No, that isn't the case. The displacement would be 240 Cubic inch as the stroke and bore would be unchanged. Also, I believe the top of the 300 piston would be well above the top of the block at TDC. The compression height of the 300 piston is significantly taller than the 240.

I wish it were that easy.

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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby StrangeRanger » Wed Aug 26, 2009 5:50 am

The way to build a 330 CID Ford 6 is to start with a somewhat hard to find forged 300 crank, weld up the rod journals and regrind them with a 4.380 stroke. You then need special pistons with a 1.4844 compression height and stock 300 rods.

Once you've spent all that money you will have an engine which cannot rev as high as a stock 300 and which will make no more power because it cannot breathe. It will also wear out much more quickly because of the side loads due to the miserable 1.418 rod/stroke ratio.

Still want to build one?
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby Lazy JW » Wed Aug 26, 2009 8:58 am

If it were easy (read cheap) I would do it. It would pull better at truly low speeds and I probably won't live long enough to wear it out anyway.

But it's never gonna be cheap, and I'm ALWAYS gonna be cheap :P :lol:
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby 277 I6 » Wed Aug 26, 2009 9:39 pm

I used chev after market eagle 6.300 rods in my 262 (280) engine the probiem is rod to cam clerance
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby 9.ford.5 » Thu Aug 27, 2009 2:19 am

yeah it sounded kinda fishy to me being a 300 is a stroked 240 haha i thought the pistons were the same size just wasnt sure...another thing i learned today :D ..how much would you have to bore a 300 over to make it a 330? i could figure it out with rather simple math but im rather lazy seing as how i got to go back to school in a week i dont want to start that stuff now LOL...as of now im just collecting ideas to bounce around in my empty skull for a while till i get the time and cash to rebuild the ole I6
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby StrangeRanger » Thu Aug 27, 2009 5:55 am

You cannot bore it far enough to get to 330. Max overbore on a 300 is .060" which gives a displacement of 309 cu. in.
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby CNC-Dude » Thu Aug 27, 2009 12:52 pm

277 I6 wrote:I used chev after market eagle 6.300 rods in my 262 (280) engine the probiem is rod to cam clerance

How did you address the excessive side clearance issue, the Chevy rod is a lot narrower than the Ford. Having that much additional side clearance creates a large internal oil leak at the journal and greatly reduces oil pressure.
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby 9.ford.5 » Fri Aug 28, 2009 12:00 am

StrangeRanger wrote:You cannot bore it far enough to get to 330. Max overbore on a 300 is .060" which gives a displacement of 309 cu. in.



oh...and then thats all you can do to increase the ci. , cant really stroke it any more, well you probably could but its pointless

dang i was kinda hoping to get a little more cis out of my 300 one day...oh well 309 sounds good to me
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby StrangeRanger » Fri Aug 28, 2009 5:24 am

309 is not good. At.060 overbore you have perilously thin cylinder walls and are flirting with the water jacket. NEVER overbore more than the absolute minimum you need to in order to clean up the bores.
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Fri Aug 28, 2009 3:46 pm

9.ford.5,
I think the point most of the people responding are trying to make is that you can't get a 300 to perform better by increasing the displacement, but rather by increasing its breathing ability with better exhaust system, port work, intakes and camshaft. That is where the most cost-effective improvements will be.
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby 9.ford.5 » Sat Aug 29, 2009 1:15 am

yeah the original plan was .30 over...i guess ill go back to that, ive never been that far into a 300 before did not know there was so little room to expand...

i plan on all new custom exhaust including LT headers and hi-flo cat, might do an intake to get it further from water...port/polish the head, bore .30 over with flat top pistons, back cut valves, decent cam, polish the plenum (maybe), remove that smog crap, good 8mm wires, coil, plugs and all that other ignition stuff (MSD coil most likely)

hows all that sound...thats as much as i can think of for now...i dont know if thats everything...i want to shoot for 250hp when i do the build
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby StrangeRanger » Sat Aug 29, 2009 7:59 am

It would help if you gave us some information like WHAT YEAR truck and what tranny you're dealing with. From your screen name, I assume it's a 95, no? If it's an EFI truck you're going to have to work out how you're going to control the EFI at that power level; the stock system is going to be through somewhere around 175 HP.
You can go to MegaSquirt with a manual tranny but if you have an E4OD, you're going to need a second processor such as a Baumann to run it. If you can find someone who has cracked the codes on the EEC-IV, you could have your stock chip re-flashed.

When you talk about removing the "smog crap" what exactly do you mean? Most of it is integrated into the EFI system and none of it costs much, if any, HP. You cannot randomly disconnect parts of the engine control system and expect the rest of it to function normally.

At 250 HP you're going to be right at the max limit of 19# injectors running at 55-58 PSI, so you probably want to look at 24# units.
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Sat Aug 29, 2009 10:42 pm

9.ford.5 wrote:...i want to shoot for 250hp when i do the build

To reach that you will need to build a 'premiun fueled' motor, i.e., higher compression ratio.
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby 9.ford.5 » Sun Aug 30, 2009 12:34 am

#24s would be in the mix...probably another thing i forgot...i was thinking megasquirt

sorry i forgot i havent set up my sig to list the trucks specs...95 f150/ 300 I6 EFI/ 5 speed (M5OD)/ 75d44 solid axle front and 8.8 ford rear, both 3.55/ 35x12.50 rubber

by removing the smog crap i would disconnect all the AIR stuff and bypass it totally...i agree it wont hurt hp much if any...unless it its malfunctioning in which case it would hurt (last time i ran it the truck was at 12mpg so somewhere something is f**ked) , and taking it off wont hurt either but it will reduce clutter in the engine bay so i can run dual batteries :mrgreen:

the flat top pistons would help achieve the higher compression ratio...and i was going to take a bit off the deck too, not much basically enough to get a good seal with the head

EDIT:: hey strangeranger what will reflashing the EEC do? make it more adaptable to modifications? would this be done with or without MS
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby StrangeRanger » Sun Aug 30, 2009 6:49 am

Re-flashing the EEC simply loads a different set of fuel/air/spark maps based on the new engine's requirements. It requires a dyno and like I said before, someone who has cracked the codes. If you're going to MegaSquirt, none of this matters since MegaSquirt replaces the EEC
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby 9.ford.5 » Mon Aug 31, 2009 1:52 am

yeah i dont think anyone around here will have a dyno...we pretty much just guess LOL :bang:

well do you guys think my plan is capable of reaching 250 hp? or will it need more
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby Harte3 » Mon Aug 31, 2009 1:47 pm

You are messing with an EFI system. Any re-engineering will have to be substantial...removing all the "smog crap" is junk automotive engineering and will not produce any desired results without a total re-engineering of all the systems. 250 hp at the flywheel might be achieved but the investment to achieve such will be very high even if it's even possible.
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby StrangeRanger » Mon Aug 31, 2009 5:07 pm

250 HP is EASY!
All you have to do is spin the engine to 6000 RPM and find some way to get it to breathe as efficiently at 6000 as it does now at 3600.
I mean how hard can THAT be? :hmmm:

Any time you're talking about a 66% increase in HP output, you're looking at a major rework, not a little bit of improvement here and a little more there. The availability of a better head might make it more feasible but it's not going to be as simple as you hope.

So, WHY 250? Is it just a number you pulled out of the air or does it have some specific purpose that 225 would not fulfill? The 300 is simply not designed to yield big HP numbers; it does however make bagsfull of torque but it just won't pull the RPM to make big HP without a whole lot of work.
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Mon Aug 31, 2009 10:50 pm

StrangeRanger wrote:So, WHY 250?


I wonder that too.
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby crash-harris » Mon Aug 31, 2009 10:58 pm

StrangeRanger wrote:250 HP is EASY!
All you have to do is spin the engine to 6000 RPM and find some way to get it to breathe as efficiently at 6000 as it does now at 3600.
I mean how hard can THAT be? :hmmm:

Any time you're talking about a 66% increase in HP output, you're looking at a major rework, not a little bit of improvement here and a little more there. The availability of a better head might make it more feasible but it's not going to be as simple as you hope.

So, WHY 250? Is it just a number you pulled out of the air or does it have some specific purpose that 225 would not fulfill? The 300 is simply not designed to yield big HP numbers; it does however make bagsfull of torque but it just won't pull the RPM to make big HP without a whole lot of work.



Anybody ever notice that the HP and Torque ratings that you find online for the 300 are at like 4500 rpm? Try 1500 rpms 8) 9.ford.5, search around on here a little and look at what combos make the most torque. May also want to check out Abandoned Bronco's How-To on the FSB forums too if you decid to go the carbed route. http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/sho ... p?t=144707
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby 9.ford.5 » Tue Sep 01, 2009 12:00 am

i was gonna keep the EFI...the emissions can be removed and if done properly wont do anything to the EFI system, there are parts out there made to trick the system into thinking the smog is still there when its really not

250hp sounded good to me considering it already gets 145hp and 260tq so thats only a 105hp increase which should not be too hard to obtain but when i build it i want at least 200hp, 250hp was more of a top i would not want to go any higher than that...an aluminum head might help with the 250 hp figure though

i cant see the 300 making that at 6000 rpm considering it would probably self destruct at 4000 hahah

keep in mind i never said anything about the cost of this...sky is the limit as of now i wont be doing this for some time so i have time to collect parts and cash right
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby StrangeRanger » Tue Sep 01, 2009 6:45 am

The stock EFI engine makes 150 HP @ 3400 RPM and 260 ft-lbs @ 2000 RPM.

HP = Torque x RPM /5252

So there are two ways to make HP, either increase torque or increase RPM. Torque is basically a function of displacement and volumetric efficiency. We've already dealt with the impracticality of increasing displacement so that leaves increases in volumetric efficiency. The volumetric efficiency of the 300 is pretty low especially at the higher RPMs. This is due to two things: the long stroke which you cannot alter and the cylinder head design.

If you look at increasing HP by increasing RPM, the limiting factor is also going to be the ability of the cylinder head to flow enough air to make more revs.

The problem is that if you port the 300 head to the point where it makes that sort of airflow needed to turn the RPM that you will require to make the big numbers you run the very real risk of killing its low RPM performance. Volumetric efficiency is a function of, among many other things, intake port velocity. Large ports which flow well and promote cylinder filling at high RPM will not do so at low revs. This is not an issue with a race engine which spends its life at full song but it can be important in a street engine and critical in a truck engine.
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby Lazy JW » Tue Sep 01, 2009 9:05 am

There was a gentleman on this forum who went by the name "Colonel Flashman"; he built a streetable 300 that dynoed right at 300 hp. Do a search for his threads.
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby 9.ford.5 » Wed Sep 02, 2009 1:45 am

yeah i know of col. flashman he built a carb'd 300 to the nuts, i have been searching for a good thread on his build over on FTE for some time now

a port/polish of the head should not open it up so much that it loses its low end should it? i was just thinking of removing the areas of the head that severely restrict flow
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby Lazy JW » Wed Sep 02, 2009 8:29 am

9.ford.5 wrote:.....

a port/polish of the head should not open it up so much that it loses its low end should it? i was just thinking of removing the areas of the head that severely restrict flow


Correct. A mild porting job will actually help in all rpm ranges so long as you do not hog out the ports too large. Just removing the obvious barnacles will work wonders; some of these heads are pretty bad from the factory.

Bigger valves will also help in the upper range and will not hurt in the lower speeds.
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby Harte3 » Wed Sep 02, 2009 11:02 am

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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby 9.ford.5 » Thu Sep 03, 2009 1:23 am

Lazy JW wrote:
9.ford.5 wrote:.....

a port/polish of the head should not open it up so much that it loses its low end should it? i was just thinking of removing the areas of the head that severely restrict flow


Correct. A mild porting job will actually help in all rpm ranges so long as you do not hog out the ports too large. Just removing the obvious barnacles will work wonders; some of these heads are pretty bad from the factory.

Bigger valves will also help in the upper range and will not hurt in the lower speeds.



like a 30* back cut of all valves or larger valves in general...or both :twisted: i was going to back cut the valves 30* with the port/polish but if just bigger valves is the better way to go :thumbup:

and thanks harte3 ill check that out
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby 9.ford.5 » Thu Sep 03, 2009 1:33 am

another thing i wanted to get into more depth with is C.R., increasing it would help me with the numbers and to increase it i plan on using flat top pistons ans decking the block to square...what do you think a god C.R. should be for this thing....i see Col. Flashman is running 10:1 that seem a little high for 200-250hp figure? any other good ways to increase C.R.?

thanks again guys...ive learned alot from this thread haha :beer:
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby shmoozo » Thu Sep 03, 2009 6:20 am

9.ford.5 wrote:another thing i wanted to get into more depth with is C.R., increasing it would help me with the numbers and to increase it i plan on using flat top pistons ans decking the block to square...what do you think a god C.R. should be for this thing....i see Col. Flashman is running 10:1 that seem a little high for 200-250hp figure? any other good ways to increase C.R.?


I wouldn't go above about 9.5:1 and something more in the range of 9:1 to 9.25:1 might be a better choice for a truck you plan to drive daily. Anything higher than that will likely require significantly higher octane fuel (at a higher cost) and maybe a more radical cam than I would really want to run on the street, especially with an EFI truck.

I'd really avoid flat top pistons, too. I think you'd be far better off with dished pistons of an upgraded quality. Forged would be a bit much for this build, perhaps, but hypereutectics would be about right.

The better way to increase your compression ratio is to mill a bit off the block to "zero deck" the pistons. If you need to go a bit more than that you can mill a bit off the head, too, but you probably won't need to do that.

By the way, I would concern myself less with trying to reach some arbitrary horsepower number than I would with a more generalized set of goals. A rational set of goals for a guy with a truck would include the following:

    *increase the engine's torque output significantly across the RPM range
    *extend the useful RPM range upward a bit
    *improve the engine's fuel economy a little, or at least don't lower it by much
    *retain the truck-like durability these engines are known for

The formula to get there with an EFI engine is really pretty straightforward.

    *Headers (I'd have them ceramic coated for longevity.)
    *High flow cat
    *Performance exhaust system
    *Mild performance cam (ask for one that is "EFI friendly" and I think they will know what to suggest.)
    *Adjustable Cloyes timing set
    *Port and polish the head
    *Slightly larger valves
    *Slightly larger injectors
    *Mildly increased compression ratio
    *Upgraded pistons
    *Perhaps a larger throttle body
    *Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
    *Updated/retuned engine management system

The real key is to get people who really know what they are doing to help you select the proper parts and to get it all properly tuned. Do it right and you'll likly be happy with the improvement no matter what the final horsepower output really is.
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby 9.ford.5 » Fri Sep 04, 2009 3:00 am

I'd really avoid flat top pistons, too. I think you'd be far better off with dished pistons of an upgraded quality. Forged would be a bit much for this build, perhaps, but hypereutectics would be about right.

The better way to increase your compression ratio is to mill a bit off the block to "zero deck" the pistons. If you need to go a bit more than that you can mill a bit off the head, too, but you probably won't need to do that.

The real key is to get people who really know what they are doing to help you select the proper parts and to get it all properly tuned. Do it right and you'll likly be happy with the improvement no matter what the final horsepower output really is



i was thinking 9:1 C.R., whats wrong with flat top pistons guys have used 360 pistons in 300 builds before with wicked results, i think they had to bore .060 over to do that which is too much for my liking but they would help increase C.R. which would reduce the amount of decking to the block, i was told this is how the local engine building shop would increase the C.R. in a 300

    *increase the engine's torque output significantly across the RPM range
    *extend the useful RPM range upward a bit
    *improve the engine's fuel economy a little, or at least don't lower it by much
    *retain the truck-like durability these engines are known for

those were all pretty much goals for this build

    *Headers (I'd have them ceramic coated for longevity.)
    *High flow cat
    *Performance exhaust system
    *Mild performance cam (ask for one that is "EFI friendly" and I think they will know what to suggest.)
    *Adjustable Cloyes timing set
    *Port and polish the head
    *Slightly larger valves
    *Slightly larger injectors
    *Mildly increased compression ratio
    *Upgraded pistons
    *Perhaps a larger throttle body
    *Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
    *Updated/retuned engine management system

all of that is on my list minus the timing set and throttle body...the throttle body is now on the list, didnt think of that one...but the timing set? i just set my timing at 12* BTDC and go
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby Harte3 » Fri Sep 04, 2009 9:20 am

The stock fiber timing gears are a weak link in the engine thus the recommendation for the metal Cloyes set.
'83 F150 300, 0.030 over, Offy DP, Holley 4160/1848-1 465 cfm, Comp Cam 260H. P/P head, EFI exhaust manifolds, Walker Y Pipe, Super Cat, Turbo muffler, Recurved DSII, Mallory HyFire 6a, ACCEL Super Stock Coil, Taylor 8mm Wires, EFI plugs.
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby rikard » Fri Sep 04, 2009 5:07 pm

Wow Very informative thread.
An adjustable timing gear set will allow you to set the valve timing straight up and the metal gears will last longer but you will hear them. The factory sets the valve timing about 4 deg retard. As others have said the 300s problem is mostly the restrictive head that limits flow. Probably why it lasts so long too.
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby mutt » Fri Sep 04, 2009 5:27 pm

realize there adjustable timing sets- $120 plus- and metal replacement sets, about $40. If you DO have fiber cam gear, its a recommended thing, but in my incremental, step at a time hop up on mine, the adjustable timing gear provided the least bang (and the most work) for the buck. I CAN say from experience however that if you must go thru periodic emissions testing, niether the cam timing change or Chev rockers will do anything to flunk you.
What annoyed me was I THOUGHT my year came w/ fiber gear, so I ordered the fancy Cloyes- mines quiet- only to discover when I got in there I HAD a steel gear. It gives a very small bump in power, not enough to notice.....
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby 9.ford.5 » Fri Sep 04, 2009 11:17 pm

even if i have the fiber timing gears at least they are gears rather than a chain...good ole I6, i might do that if the gears need to be replaced while the engine is out...

does anyone know how much improvement an aluminum head will make for the 300? i would imagine they are more precision cut, lighter, and less restrictive, but are the gains worth the coin vs. a P/P of the factory head?
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby Lazy JW » Sat Sep 05, 2009 12:01 am

I would be almighty desperate before I would allow fiber gears to remain in my 300 when I had it apart.
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby 9.ford.5 » Sat Sep 05, 2009 1:32 am

well apparently there are no aluminum heads made for the 300 I6...yet

how about i add these to the mix to increase the C.R. , Harland Sharp S4002, 1.6 ratio roller rockers 8)

apparently oversized valves in the EFI cylinder head is not really much of an improvement either so a 30* back-cut will be in order

and comp cam 262 i think it is...
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby CNC-Dude » Sat Sep 05, 2009 1:56 am

There is an aluminum head available for the 300's, the bad news is, it is a billet race head and is around $8 grand. Not much market for it except in full tilt race applications.
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby russk » Sat Sep 05, 2009 12:33 pm

CNC Dude is right about the Allen Johnson / Ford SVO billet race head being VERY expensive. But that's just the beginning since the head (at $7 to $8 grand) is delivered pretty much bare! So add another couple of grand to that amount for the cost of having finish machine work done, porting and polishing, valve job, and chamber work. And after spending that much, you're not about to scrimp on the valve train components so you could expect to easily spend another couple of grand on "maximum effort" springs, keepers, retainers, seals, valves, and shaft rockers. But you're still not done because you will probably need a fabricated valve cover to fit the head. And because the head is a crossflow design, you'll need custom fabricated intake manifolding, exhaust headers, and relocated (or fully electronic?) ignition. All told, the total could be something like twice the $8 grand spent for the bare billet head!

The problem is that, to be competitive with the big Ford six in the NHRA competition eliminator classes on a national level, you'll be up against this calibre of equipment. The only alternative to the SVO head would probably be a "composite" head custom fabricated from sections of V6 or V8 heads, which may not be an NHRA-legal head like the SVO head is. Anyway, too rich for my blood.

Like many of us, I'm anxiously waiting for CI to complete their bix Ford six head currently under development. While it won't be able to match the performance potential of the crossflow SVO billet head, it will (like their small six head) certainly be a SIGNIFICANT improvement in flow over any modified 240/300 OEM head and I expect it will be a similar extreme value.
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby Lazy JW » Sat Sep 05, 2009 1:48 pm

CNC-Dude wrote:There is an aluminum head available for the 300's, the bad news is, it is a billet race head and is around $8 grand. Not much market for it except in full tilt race applications.


My understanding is this head has no coolant passageways so its race application is pretty much for drag strips only.
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby shmoozo » Sat Sep 05, 2009 11:21 pm

9.ford.5 wrote:Ii was thinking 9:1 C.R., whats wrong with flat top pistons


My understanding is that flat top pistons in a 300 will put you waaaay over the 9:1 mark
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby mutt » Sun Sep 06, 2009 12:59 pm

My thought has been to have a dish piston filled in to mimic the contour of the flat part of the carbed head combustion chamber. That (IIRC!) seems to be about 1/3 of the bore, maybe. You'd get that big squish area, but keep the CR to......what? I aint got the chops to figure that one, but that was the thought I had looking at the comb. chambers........a Tri Triple (the old ones) builder/racer I used to visit when I lived in Phoenix filled in & turned pistons all the time for his race BSA singles & such. (Usta make con rods out of chunks of Russian sub pressure hulls, too....titanium.) Senior Rocket Scientist territory, but it looks like a good idea.....
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby crash-harris » Sun Sep 06, 2009 11:39 pm

Just using factory flat top 351 pistons is actually going to lower compression from what I've found out if you just put them on stock 300 rods (pin to top of piston distance is shorter).

Check these out

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-3118H-030/

There's also another good link in this thread.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=54646
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby 9.ford.5 » Mon Sep 07, 2009 11:52 pm

wow i didnt think flat top pistons would increase the CR that much...but i like the looks of those hypereutectic pistons and those combined with a zero decking of the block and deck the head to square it and i should be at a decent number and still running pump gas
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby shmoozo » Tue Sep 08, 2009 1:33 am

9.ford.5 wrote:wow i didnt think flat top pistons would increase the CR that much...but i like the looks of those hypereutectic pistons and those combined with a zero decking of the block and deck the head to square it and i should be at a decent number and still running pump gas


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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby 9.ford.5 » Tue Sep 08, 2009 2:03 am

sweet thanks guys...my brain is a lil sore now... :mrgreen: :beer:

well i am going to have to do some more searching and re-read some of this thread and come up with a list :hmmm:

thank you all for you help :thumbup:
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Re: 240 I6 + 300 I6 = 329 I6?

Postby CNC-Dude » Tue Sep 08, 2009 12:33 pm

Lazy JW wrote:
CNC-Dude wrote:There is an aluminum head available for the 300's, the bad news is, it is a billet race head and is around $8 grand. Not much market for it except in full tilt race applications.


My understanding is this head has no coolant passageways so its race application is pretty much for drag strips only.

Your correct, its machined from a soild chunk of aluminum and has no water jackets at all. Its a race only piece for sure.
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