dura spark ignition questions??????

[300inline]

i think there may be a problem in the ignition box on my 83 f150 its gray with the blue plug it would help if i knew what each wire was suppose to do and what its suppose to read so i can see if this is where the problem is or if i should be loking elsewhere

[JackFish]

Given the detailed description of the symptoms, Id suggest you start randomly swapping out parts.

[The Plankster Prankster]

what symptoms are you having? most of us here do/did have a duraspark setup, and thus you're sure to find somebody say "oh that symptom, thats this problem". when the ignition system quits, the most common problem is the module itself, and those of us who drive far from civilization always carry a spare.

[300inline]

engine wont turn over i get some spark at the plug but not much first set of plugs only lasted bout 3 weeks untill they were extremely carbon fouled acts like the timing is off im stumed no reason it shouldnt run

[Lazy JW]

If the engine won't turn over then you may need a starter or the piston rings are rusted to the cylinders.
Joe

[fordconvert]

On the basic level the duraspark more or less works or not. If you are getting a spark the pick up and module would appear to be working. The coil and wires could have issues but carbon build up usually points more to other issues than just ignition. Not sure how not turning over would be related other than a sign of serious electrical or mechanical issues. Getting it to crank normally and then doing a compression check would be my next step. If its cranking slow your system voltage is likely low and that could explain why you dont appear to be getting a good spark when you are checking it.

[300inline]

well i was told by a local that just cuz im getting spark that doesnt mean that it is working properly it was running but i blew the head gasket so i replaced it and ported the heads while i had them off but i only had it runin a few weeks now im tryin to get everything right it should be running but i cant think of anything i would have done just by tearing down the top end i was thinking it could be wiring but i need a diagram so i cant check that but id like to eliminate the ignition from the list so i can look elsewhere

[300inline]

just went out to work on my truck and the coil was melted at the top and the oil spilled out on the floor ?

[fordconvert]

Thats not a good thing. That would usually be caused by the coil being left on. Something like a tach issue could cause it. Pinched wire? Wire hooked in the wrong place? Not sure if thats a common failure mode for those modules, I have not heard of it. I dont remember what the wire colors were on those but pretty much any ford book from 75-early 80's will have the same colors.

Did you mess with cam timing (gears) or have the dizzy out when you had the head off?

[300inline]

yea timed it to the timing mark but the dizzy was never off just rotated it to fire #1 but i do need a wiring diagram u dont happen to have one do you?

[fordconvert]

2 wire plug on the module:
Red= goes to the r(run) terminal on the key. So that should be full system voltage when the key is in run.
White= goes to the s(start) terminal on the key. That would be full system voltage when the key is in the start postion, this is used to retard the timing for easier starts.

4 wire plug on module:
Green= goes to the - terminal of the coil. THIS IS NOT A GROUND only optional thing to hook here is a tachometer signal wire.
Orange= to pickup in distributor
Purple= to pickup in distributor
Black= Ground connection in distributor. The module also grounds through its body.

Coil connections:
- = is the green wire to the module and an optional tachometer NOT A GROUND
+ = Same run terminal of the key that the above red wire hooks to except that after the red wire taps off there is a ballast resistor wire. When running this would be more like 8 volts. There is also a second (s)start terminal on the key that then connects after after the resistor to send full system voltage to the coil during cranking.


It looks complicated but its really not. For a test just get +12 to the red wire of the module and + of the coil it should start and run as long as the green is hooked to the - of the coil and the orange and purple are hooked up.

If you unplug the harness going to the dizzy and hook an ohm meter to the orange and purple you should get a steady reading. If you flex the wires around it should stay steady. If you have a hand vacuum pump operate the vacuum advance and make sure it stays steady. If you spin the dizzy (crank engine) you should see steady pulses.

Normally I think Haynes manuals are worthless. For some reason I have one for the Ford trucks. #36058 (880) Ford Pickups & Bronco 1980-1996. Red cover with white and yellow lettering. A cutaway sketch of an F250 on the cover. It has about 3 pages on testing the Duraspark system using basic tools. These manuals are in stock at most parts stores for around $15. I would think any Ford repair manual from 75 to around 85 would also have the same basic info since the system was the same in the cars. If you dont have any sort of manual it may be worth getting one. Factory type are the best but often harder to find and more expensive. In this case a Haynes will get you through this problem. Another option is many public libraries have repair manuals in there reference sections. Those that dont usually have free access to ALLDATA online which is the service many shops use. You just have to pay to print pages. It takes a while to get how to navigate the site but once you get it figured out there is tons of good info including complete trouble shooting and electrical drawings. You can also go to their site from home and pay for the DIY service. Its like $30 for 1 year of access to only one car. Extra cars cost extra. Seems like every time I have paid for that I have sold the car so i just go to the library and do it for free. Shops pay like $100 per month for access.

Electronic devices like the module dont tend to sort of work. The usual portion of them that fails is the actual switching device. There are 2 common failure modes of electronic devices. Shorted which basically means its stuck on which would do things like melt a coil. The other option is open which means it does nothing. Its extremely rare for either of those things to happen intermittently. Thats the work or not work part. One thing that could happen is the device shorts and due to the load of the shorted out melted coil something in the circuit melts and then opens. Its possible that some of the driving circuits have failed but I dont think its that common. I have read that there are 2 sections to the module, one for running and the other one for starting. I have heard of cases where it wont start but as you let go of the key it will suddenly fire and run. Same thing the other way where when cranking you can feel it fire but as you release the key it quits.

[300inline]

heck yah man that helps alot and im planing on getting alldata next payday but i agree haynes are worthless and thanks again man

[BIGREDRASA]

Check out this site: http://www.bobcat.ca/stuff/DOCS/DURATR~1.PDF

[300inline]

thanx man just what i was lookin for!!!