My 1978 Bronco project: A ton of pics

[American Thunder]

I bought this thing dirt cheap. It came with 2 brand new original Ford front fenders, boxes of parts, new shocks, new skyjacker 6" lift suspension front and rear springs, all new poly bushings, the whole underside of the truck was sandblasted and painted. I need to do some minor repair on the quarter flares and a section of the floor. It has 84,000 miles on it, and has been sitting in a garage incomplete since 1992. There's no motor or trans in it, which is good, as it saves me time having to remove the 351M and 4 speed.
I've wanted a '78 Bronco since I was 10 years old, when they first came out, so after 30 years, I have one at last.
I will be scrapping out my trusty but rusty '83 Bronco and remove the 300 I rebuilt last year and use it in the '78, along with the 5-speed trans. I'm going to adapt the hydraulic clutch setup to the '78, and possibly the entire pedal assembly has to go with it. Not sure yet. I will be busy for many nights this spring. heh
























Check out that flawless original tailgate.. mmmmm! It looks just as good on the inside, too.

The aluminum slot wheels are wide, maybe 10 inches, so I can go with a pretty big tire when I find a used set somewhere.

p.s. I'm painting the truck with semi gloss, in a Measure-32D Iowa class battleship camo scheme. You don't see too much of that running around on the streets.

[Harte3]

Looks like a great project. Photo updates desired and appreciated too.

[zacd]

Pretty cool project.

Don't know what is or is not done with respect to the front end (maybe I missed it in the photos) and I'm not sure how familiar you are with such stuff, but a set of '94 F250 4x4 front upper shock mounts will basically bolt in and allow you to use a double eyelet shock at the front instead of the lame stud-mount upper/eyelet lower shocks that Ford installed from the factory. You can pick up the F250 upper shock mounts for like $10 a piece from Ford.

Looks like somebody stuck some extended spring hangers in the rear.

The brakes on these rigs leave a lot to be desired, especially when you have some big meats under them. An F350 booster and master cylinder will bolt right in, save for you need to bend the hard lines around because the F350 master cylinder has passenger-side ports instead of the F150/Bronco's ports being on the engine side. That and the front brake line fitting for an F350, at the master cylinder, is a 3/8-24 whereas the Bronco/F150 lines have a 9/16 fitting. A set of '76-'78 T-bird front calipers is a very good, inexpensive upgrade as well...much bigger stainless caliper pistons in them than the Bronco/F150 phenolic pistoned calipers. I have this brake setup under my '78 F150 regular cab, longbed (along with F350 rear wheel cylinders) running 37x13.50-18s. It'll lock up all 4 wheels with no problem.

Then again, you could forgo the F350 vacuum operated brake booster and get a hydroboost booster out of a GM Astro van and a dual outlet/dual return Saginaw power steering pump out of a mid '80s GM truck powered by a 6.2 (and a Saginaw p/s bracket from an Econoline van...the ONLY thing Ford put Saginaw pumps in), have some hoses made, and have an even more powerful brake setup for a lot less than what most people sell their hydroboost "kits" for. I am debating on switching over to this hydroboost setup in the near future. I've got 3 hydroboost boosters out of late '80s GM Astro vans (scored for like $15.00) each. I have a Saginaw p/s bracket out of a 300 powered '83 E150 van and a reman'ed 6.2 diesel Saginaw pump is like $70. The most expensive proposition is having the hoses made. Figure $250.00 and it's a complete, bolt-in deal.

[American Thunder]

Excellent, thanks for the info!

The rear spring hangers are still in the stock position,(they're not reversed for more lift) the aftermarket springs are just really tall.

Do those '94 shock mounts bolt onto the frame separately, like the original ones, and do they use the same holes in the frame?

[zacd]

Upon looking again at those hangers, I noticed what looked like the original frame rivets attaching them to the frame.

The '94 front shock towers will bolt to the frame using the original bolt-bolts for the stock shocker towers directly behind the coil spring tower. These are the same shock towers that CAGE, etc., sell for like $30-$50 a pair.

[AbandonedBronco]

What an awesome project! I love the '78/'79 Bronco, so you definitely have a gem there. I've always wanted one, especially with a 300 in it.

Definitely keep us updated on pics. Can't wait to see where it this goes.

[crash-harris]

Man, I would've loved to grab that up! I so want a '79 Bronco and a '79 SuperCab to cut up and make a 4-door Bronco like the Centurion ones. Looks like it's gonna be reeeeeal nice. It does however look like the P.O. kept the panhard (trackbar) for the front D44. Probably took it off for the lift and just hadn't gotten the new one yet.

[American Thunder]

Man, I would've loved to grab that up! I so want a '79 Bronco and a '79 SuperCab to cut up and make a 4-door Bronco like the Centurion ones. Looks like it's gonna be reeeeeal nice. It does however look like the P.O. kept the panhard (trackbar) for the front D44. Probably took it off for the lift and just hadn't gotten the new one yet.

I found that piece lying under some boxes inside the truck. I need to make or buy a dropped mount for it.

As for those 4-door centurion broncs, they were really cool. I knew a guy that had one a couple years ago, and strangely enough, it had 8 lug wheels. He didnt have a title for it, so he ended up scrapping it, even before I could get the interior out of it. Bah.

Right after I bought my '78 Bronc, there was another one put up for sale on craigslist, for $500. The ad said it was brought up from Texas, with very little rust, and not running for whatever reason.

Huh, I just checked again, and there's yet another '78 Bronc, with only 35k original miles on it. Cool. http://newyork.craigslist.org/que/cto/1068894458.html

[crash-harris]

Man, if I had the money I'd be there in a heartbeat ::wimpers::. But that's a far-cry because I pour all my money into Bruiser as soon as I get it

And every Centurion Bronco I've seen for sale has had 3/4 ton axles. I love the look of the 70's Bronco, and even more so if it's a 4-door. Just somethin' 'bout 'em.

[powerjunkie]

Well i pretty much hate you! i have always since i can remember, wanted a 78 or 79 bronco.

[4x4xFORD]

Nice project! I've always been torn 'tween 78-79's and the EB's, very cool though! Congrats! ...

[Craigwell]

We have the same project on the go, although I'm dealing with a heck of a lot more rust than you are.. One interesting thing in my 300 swap, is that I need a C4 or C6 that has the long tailshaft in order to match up to the NP205. I haven't determined yet what years ford used the long tailshaft version vs. the short one for 4x4 use. I hope the shorter tailshaft version didn't start in 1980!! Other wise It might be a "hen's teeth" scenario..

Nice project, thanks for the pics

[American Thunder]

We have the same project on the go, although I'm dealing with a heck of a lot more rust than you are.. One interesting thing in my 300 swap, is that I need a C4 or C6 that has the long tailshaft in order to match up to the NP205. I haven't determined yet what years ford used the long tailshaft version vs. the short one for 4x4 use. I hope the shorter tailshaft version didn't start in 1980!! Other wise It might be a "hen's teeth" scenario..

Nice project, thanks for the pics

I'm using the whole '95 drivetrain, (which is currently powering my 83) I foresee a possible clearance issue with the crossmember that's mounted between the radius rod drop down brackets. I may need to make a new crossmember to support the brackets, that will be low enough to clear the 5 speed. I'm installing the 3" body lift before anything else, so I have more room to play with. The newer broncs seem to have a bigger bump in the trans tunnel to clear the transfer case, because when I put the 5-speed and case in my 83 using the '95 crossmember, it sat up higher and I could barely squeeze a finger between the top of the case and the floor.
The body lift will help there, too.

[American Thunder]

I've been reading about that track bar. Hmm. I'm pretty sure my suspension lift is 6", but I'm not sure how far I need to drop the track bar upper mounting bracket down. If I drop it the full 6", so that the bar is level like stock, I wonder if the frame will take the strain of the increased leverage.
I can build a right angle into the bracket and run a bolt up from the bottom to help distribute the stress over a bigger area. I could also run a support bar to the other side and bolt it to the other rail.
Not sure yet how I'm going to handle it. Any suggestions?
Ive read about guys using a longer track bar and mounting it to the stock location, but I don't like that. There's no way it can allow free movement without pushing to the side in that instance. Plus all my money trees are empty, so I'm using the stock bar regardless.

[warponyxlt]

what kind of frame mounts are those or better yet what kind of engine was in there

[TCIC 300ci superbeast]

i think that all 78-79 broncos came with 351M or 400M

[powerjunkie]

NO PLEASE DONT GET ME STARTED!!!

THERE IS NO "M" AFTER 400. its just 400.

there is a M after 351M because it is a modified 400 block. also so you dont mix up 351W, 351C.

[crash-harris]

I've been reading about that track bar. Hmm. I'm pretty sure my suspension lift is 6", but I'm not sure how far I need to drop the track bar upper mounting bracket down. If I drop it the full 6", so that the bar is level like stock, I wonder if the frame will take the strain of the increased leverage.
I can build a right angle into the bracket and run a bolt up from the bottom to help distribute the stress over a bigger area. I could also run a support bar to the other side and bolt it to the other rail.
Not sure yet how I'm going to handle it. Any suggestions?
Ive read about guys using a longer track bar and mounting it to the stock location, but I don't like that. There's no way it can allow free movement without pushing to the side in that instance. Plus all my money trees are empty, so I'm using the stock bar regardless.

Basicly, you just have to match the angle of the trackbar t the angle of your draglink or you get some problems.

[zacd]

The frame is pretty strong. A track bar drop bracket from CAGE Offroad, Jeff's Bronco Graveyard, etc., will suffice. I am unaware of anybody with a Bronco or F-150 having problems with the frame in the track bar mount area. The bushings in the stock track bar, rubber or urethane, will generally fail long before anything else does.

That said, some extra gusseting never hurts, unless you're welding directly to the frame and don't really know what you're doing (i.e. getting the frame hot enough to weaken the steel).

[crash-harris]

I really wouldn't recommend heat the frame at all. Just seems like a bad idea to me after find small holes in frames where it looks like someone accidently got a torch too close to. I know I'll be fabbing up a bolt-on upper mount for my SAS (frame rail and engine x-member).

[American Thunder]

The original motor was a 351M, and it had the usual iron 4 speed and iron transfer case. I'm getting the trans case from the guy, but the original motor and trans were sold.



I made an extension for the factory trac bar bracket, which drops it 4". To make the trac bar and drag link perfectly parallel would have required an additional 1" drop to the bracket, which I wasnt comfortable with. But judging by what I read from the Bronco forums, this is closer to parallel than factory, so it shouldnt bump steer at all.




I installed the rear shocks, too. No clue what brand they are, I assume they came with the skyjacker lift kit, as they were in the box. All that matters is they fit.
Poly bushings throughout the suspension. (except for the rear springs, for some reason, the guy put in rubber bushings. Don't know why.

[American Thunder]

I also installed the new brake hoses on the front, which came with the lines as one unit. Pretty cool new rust resistant coating they come with, too. Time will tell how rust resistant they really are. ha

You can see the white Ford F(650?) in the background of the one pic, that belongs to my brother. He gave me the front bumper off that truck, and I'm in the process of fitting it to my Bronco. hmm.. Looks good so far. I need to remove about a 6" section from the middle to shorten it up so it matches the bronc's body lines. This thing is much taller and about twice as heavy as the stock one, so deer better watch out who they're jumping in front of.
It even has steps in it, which is handy for when I install the bigger tires.


And oh baby, I'm trading a buddy for a nodular 9" chunk with a locker unit, and it already has 3.50 gears and all. Love it!

I was under the truck measuring stuff yesterday, and I see where the p.o. sheered off all the rear seat attaching hardware in his lack-of-torch-using haste. While I'm replacing the integral nuts, I'm going to install the seat attaching box in the next crossmember back, which will give the rear passengers 10" more leg room. Eventually, I'm going to find just the right seat tracks and install them back there, so the rear seat folds down, can be removed like a minivan seat, and will slide on the tracks, too. It's something Ford should have done decades ago.
With 2 teenagers and a 9 year old riding back there, the stock rear seat positioning SUCKS.

[American Thunder]

NO PLEASE DONT GET ME STARTED!!!

THERE IS NO "M" AFTER 400. its just 400.

there is a M after 351M because it is a modified 400 block. also so you dont mix up 351W, 351C.

I always thought they called it a modified because it combined the induction system and crankshaft bearing dimensions of a small block with the bell pattern, mounts and distributor of a big block. Are they big small blocks or small big blocks??
And what do you call a 351W with a 400 crankshaft?? A 400WM??
Is that sort of like a clevor's cousin?? Holy cow


Well, I call them Mutants, anyways.

[zacd]

The original driveline combo in that thing was, most likely, an NP435 trans with a married NP205 t-case behind it. You can find NP435s easy and for relatively little $$$ if you're going to stick a manual back in it. The only downside to the NP435, if you're planning on driving this thing with regularity, is that they are non-overdriven.

That said, they are STOUT and dependable units.

If you break something in an NP435 or an NP205 t-case, for that matter, you're either making a goodly amount of power, need to learn how to drive better (don't thrash on your stuff so hard), or the porosity of the steel in whatever part that broke was less than ideal.

[powerjunkie]

NO PLEASE DONT GET ME STARTED!!!

THERE IS NO "M" AFTER 400. its just 400.

there is a M after 351M because it is a modified 400 block. also so you dont mix up 351W, 351C.

I always thought they called it a modified because it combined the induction system and crankshaft bearing dimensions of a small block with the bell pattern, mounts and distributor of a big block. Are they big small blocks or small big blocks??
And what do you call a 351W with a 400 crankshaft?? A 400WM??
Is that sort of like a clevor's cousin?? Holy cow


Well, I call them Mutants, anyways.

it would be 351m stroked to 400ci.

Ford doesn't use "Small Block/Big Block" they use Series.

385 Series - 370/429/460/514
335 Series - 351 Cleveland/400/351M/Boss 351
Windsor 221/255/260/289/289HP/302/351W/Boss 302
FE - 332/352/360/361/390/391/406/410/427/428
Y Block- 239/256/272/292/312

and so on and so 4th

[wallaka]

NO PLEASE DONT GET ME STARTED!!!

THERE IS NO "M" AFTER 400. its just 400.

there is a M after 351M because it is a modified 400 block. also so you dont mix up 351W, 351C.

And what do you call a 351W with a 400 crankshaft?? A 400WM??
Is that sort of like a clevor's cousin?? Holy cow


Well, I call them Mutants, anyways.

it would be 351m stroked to 400ci.

I think it would actually be called a 400W or stroked 315W. Since it doesn't have any M parts. Woo semantics.

Anyhow, nice project.

[American Thunder]

The original driveline combo in that thing was, most likely, an NP435 trans with a married NP205 t-case behind it. You can find NP435s easy and for relatively little $$$ if you're going to stick a manual back in it. The only downside to the NP435, if you're planning on driving this thing with regularity, is that they are non-overdriven.

That said, they are STOUT and dependable units.

If you break something in an NP435 or an NP205 t-case, for that matter, you're either making a goodly amount of power, need to learn how to drive better (don't thrash on your stuff so hard), or the porosity of the steel in whatever part that broke was less than ideal.

I have heard those iron 4 speeds are durable. I had a '72 F250 with a 360 FE motor and a 4 speed in it. Did they use that same new process 435 trans in that too? I loved the blocky "truck type" shift that had.

I'm actually going to scrap out my '83 and use all the running gear in the '78, which is a 300 and a 5 speed manual. I'm swapping the throttle pedal to the newer style with cable, too.
From what I've read, the iron transfer case that came with the '78 Bronc should bolt up in place of the more fragile aluminum one that's in my '83 now. All it should take is removing the extension piece that's on it.


p.s. I don't thrash on my truck, that's what my Mustang's for.

[American Thunder]

After reading through this thread, I feel like bolting a 400 crank in a 351W, with narrowed 300 rods, and boss 302 pistons, then bolting on 351C 4bbl heads and a boss 302 intake with spacers!!

Then just sit there at a show with the hood up, and watch people lose their minds trying to figure out what the heck it is.

[THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER]

there is a M after 351M because it is a modified 400 block.

Actually, the 351M and 400 blocks are identical. They were relatively heavy engines with lots of volume in the cooling passages so they took a long time to reach operating temp and thus were high emitters on cold start. Ford did away with them because 302s and Ws were easier to emissionize.

By the way, M / 400 heads modified to fit on a Windsor block or a Boss 302 block make killer street engines - even better than Boss heads.

[American Thunder]

By the way, M / 400 heads modified to fit on a Windsor block or a Boss 302 block make killer street engines - even better than Boss heads.

Even better yet, the Aussie 351C 2-bbl head, which is similar in port size and valves as the 351M/400 head, but with smaller combustion chambers, so they yield nice compression on a 302 with flat tops.

[crash-harris]

Ha, ha! I think you just helped me save some more cash on my SAS! I'm making my upper tracbar mount from scratch and I think I'm going to make one similar to your using the factory panhard instead of spending the cash for DOM tubing, poly end bushing screw on connectors and bungs.

So I take it that that pitman is a drop one then. Is it just the 4"/6" drop pitman?

[American Thunder]

The pitman measures as a 3" drop.

If I was going to convert a newer truck to a SAS setup, I would definitely use leaf springs. (shackles to the rear, not to the front!)
With leaf, you don't need to worry about any trac bars or bump steer, and lifting it is simpler.

At some point, if I decide to upgrade to a d60 up front, I will be putting in leaf springs.


p.s. I'm most likely going to fab up a tubular tracbar brace that bolts to the mount and to the crossmember. Better safe than sorry.
I really would have preferred to raise the tracbar mounting point on the axle housing, and weld in a gusset for strength, but the coil spring lower perch was in the way.