Can you spin your tires with non-stock cam and stock stall?

64 200 ranchero, are you running pump gas?

David, I recently did the Mr Gasket recurve but didn't notice any significant difference in how the car felt. And no, no knock at 15-16. Actually I think I even ran it at 18 once and didn't hear any pinging. Good to know about the other rears, I'll keep a lookout.

Good point about the dynamic compression, I never really looked into that... I think what I need to do is pull the head and get some more accurate measurements instead of going off the factory specs, and then get a dynamic compression calculator and see where I'm at now, and what I need to raise the static to for my cam. Then I'll use the steel shim and maybe some milling.

Thanks for the tips all.
 
yes, 91 pump gas, no pinging, WSA111 aka bill recurved the distributor on my 10.5-1 engine and falconsedandelivery aka Faron re-curved a distributor on my old engine. a re-curve on a distributor machine will make a lot of difference. I tried the mr gasket mod in the past and did not get very good results, its better to have a professional do it, there is braising involved in a proper re-curve. either bill or faron can do it and they will build it to suit your engine.
 
"...line lock…"
"LL" , like an emergency brake - it holds the vehicle while you increase rpm. then release the LL =
"hole shot", burn out ,
lotta stress on many components - can B expensive fun (fun?).

jeesh, I don't (play the ponies) gamble either… both too expensive 2 B called entertainment 4 me
:|
 
Its a solenoid that is installed at the front brakes and holds brake pressure when it is triggered, allowing the rear wheels to be free while the front brakes are locked. i have used mine for a few years with no problems.
 
yeah, rev it then, boom. (blows up the rear end but) that's a "burn out"...
 
I was thinking that it might make the car launch harder, i think i have seen people do this at the drag strip, not blowing their rear end but revving then launching, i bet they prob have a stall converter with a rear line lock.
 
I was thinking that it might make the car launch harder, i think i have seen people do this at the drag strip, not blowing their rear end but revving then launching, i bet they prob have a stall converter with a rear line lock.
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More likely they have a "trans brake", which won't hurt things, and allows you to do just this, by having the tranny in 1st and reverse at the same time...
 
64 200 ranchero":3nulav7s said:
yeah, that makes sense, i cant install a transbrake behind my 65 200 with c4, i was thinking of ways i can emulate that effect
Click to expand...
a trans brake, is not really a brake, just a solenoid valve that fools the tranny into being in both 1st and reverse at the same time (therefor locking up). Transbrake kits go inside the tranny, and are indeed available for the C4.
 
how do they avoid blowin things up? Rev limiters or sompin keep the thing from rippin out the whole rear axel?
I mean I can see buyin a buncha no tread tires & pumpin em up, havin lockers in the dif, but the shock to the U-joints
and everything…?
 
RichCreations":1ll8pmkx said:
i think i found one http://www.jegs.com/i/Performance-Autom ... tId=761107
Click to expand...
That was for the street/strip version (no transbrake)
Click to expand...
It looked like 1 was listed further on coupla clicks.

The line lock I'm familiar with we use some times when winchin. The line part means brake 'line' & is hydraulic, in the brake line. Uses the brakes to hold against the pull of the winch.
 
I think the 8" rear and v8 drive shaft could handle the extra shock, i think the standard 6 stuff would blow to pieces for sure. @ Rich, yeah i just noticed that they just put up a generic pic, i have never found a 67 valve body with a transbrake, i was looking for one a few years back when i was building up my c4 with no luck so i just installed a shift kit.
 
Wikipedia
"mostly I6 but 302 as well, rare: 351"

1964 - '81:
The C4 was also found with valve bodies requiring a different number of bolts, 8-bolt vs 9-bolt. A 9-bolt valvebody can be used on either case, but a nut & bolt must be used on the valve body in the empty hole, dropping the bolt in from the top and using the nut on the bottom/filter side.

Modified C4s remain popular with hot rodders and drag racers due to their simplicity and durability.

Year & Model breakdown:

1964–1966 Select Shift, 24/24 spline, castings: C4, C5, C6
1967–1969 Select Shift, 24/24 spline, castings: C7, C8, C9
1970–1970 Select Shift, 26/26 spline, castings: D0
1971–1979 Select Shift, 26/24 spline, castings: D1, D2, D3, D4, D5, D6, D7, D8, D9

Applications:

1973–1977 Ford Bronco
1974–1982 Ford Cortina
1965–1983 Ford F-Series
1964–1970 Ford Fairlane
1978–1983 Ford Fairmont
1965–1970 Ford Falcon
1975–1982 Ford Granada
1975–1980 Ford LTD
1970–1977 Ford Maverick
1965–1981 Ford Mustang
1965–1979 Ford Ranchero
1968–1981 Ford Thunderbird
1968–1976 Ford Torino
1964–1981 Lincolns
1977–1980 Lincoln Versailles
1974–1980 Mercury Bobcat
1972–1981 Mercury Capri
1964–1977 Mercury Comet
1967–1981 Mercury Cougar
1975–1980 Mercury Monarch
1968–1976 Mercury Montego
1978–1981 Mercury Zephyr

Lots more on that site.
 
X2 this is also why I as well as many others on this site usually recommend getting at least a 1971 trans or a 1972 and up trans to use because they have all the best factory improvements. That said the early 1964 to 1966 C4 transmissions can also be improved too by swapping in a 1967 up Select Shift valve body in place of the old duel range VB, this along with a good TransGo shift kit and an Aux. Trans cooler, makes for a major improvement in shifting performance and durability of the those older transmissions. Good luck :nod:
 
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