Has anyone cut off the log intake and built another intake??

Hi All,

I am interested to know if anyone has ever cut off the log intake off a 200 cid log head and fabbed up another one to accept a 2bbl or 4bbl carb setup? If so how did you go about it???? Please let me know as I am having so much trouble locating a 250 2v head or classic inline head but I would still like to make more power with what I have.

Thanks.
 
There is a lot of recent postings showing threads on this topic. A quick search should bring these up again.
 
I am currently modifying my 69 250 log head to be set up for drag racing. I've spent 3 weeks porting and polishing the cast iron log head and today had the machine shop modify my intake manifold with a cut between cylinders 2 and 3 and between cylinders 4 and 5. We will be capping off these breaks In addition we made an 18 inch long 2 inch square log to mount onto the existing log. It is set up for 3 separate 2 cylinder inputs from the tube log. I will be using a 500 cfm New Holley carb. The idea is to get much better input equal flow to each cylinder. Takes work and some money but I believe it will be well worth it. This will be turbo charged running on E-85. I do not know what horsepower will be but am shooting for 350, time will tell. Doing what I have done is much less work than cutting off the intake log totally and then fabbing a new intake manifold.
 
I saw one where he sawed off the log and used 6 motorcycle carbs and attached them with rubber ferco that wad a good way to make them even.
 
"...I saw …"
I love pic
;)
 
I just cut the log off my head a coupla weeks ago. These have some huge ports. I sliced it straight up from the edge of the block mounting surface and angled it back to the valve cover. The ports turn upwards and I want to level them off. I'm planning on using different head bolts that have a stud sticking up so that I can use eyebolts to anchor the manifold. Now for some welding to build up the top of the intakes. Plus there's an area around part of the center exhaust ports and the divider needs about 1/8". I hear I have to preheat the head. Anybody have experience migging on these without preheating? Mike
 
OpelGT+3point3":1ygz5s45 said:
I just cut the log off my head a coupla weeks ago. These have some huge ports. I sliced it straight up from the edge of the block mounting surface and angled it back to the valve cover. The ports turn upwards and I want to level them off. I'm planning on using different head bolts that have a stud sticking up so that I can use eyebolts to anchor the manifold. Now for some welding to build up the top of the intakes. Plus there's an area around part of the center exhaust ports and the divider needs about 1/8". I hear I have to preheat the head. Anybody have experience migging on these without preheating? Mike
Oh let's have some pics please!
 
OpelGT+3point3":1zwya7e4 said:
I just cut the log off my head a coupla weeks ago. These have some huge ports. I sliced it straight up from the edge of the block mounting surface and angled it back to the valve cover. The ports turn upwards and I want to level them off. I'm planning on using different head bolts that have a stud sticking up so that I can use eyebolts to anchor the manifold. Now for some welding to build up the top of the intakes. Plus there's an area around part of the center exhaust ports and the divider needs about 1/8". I hear I have to preheat the head. Anybody have experience migging on these without preheating? Mike

Do they have a nickel wire for mig? The only way I have welded on cast iron is by using an arc welder with a high Nickel content rod and in that case it's better to have the cast part warmed up some and then wrap it up (insulated good) and let cool very slowly after finishing your welding. Though during the warmer summer months I have also welded a small area on a block without heating it and just let it cool in the open air. You could use brass on cast iron also but if it gets too hot it would come apart IE like at the exhaust Manafold area. Good luck
 
OpelGT+3point3":33w1itkm said:
I just cut the log off my head a coupla weeks ago...Anybody have experience migging on these without preheating? Mike
I would do a "furnace weld" rather than just have at it. I plan on welding in my port divider when it comes thru mail but that is a very small piece…tack, let cool, come back & a lill tack, let cool come back later…
You're talkin bout a much bigger bead. That would be an enormus time involved w/o the "pre-heat" U mention.
Check the other forums here: "1320" or "Hard Core" I don't visit much but they may have some pointers.
Stick may provide a bigger bead for U as well - not sure what ur doing but mig may B a lill small, braze is aslo a possibility - tell us more about where/what if you R able...
 
"...if anyone has ever cut off the log intake off a 200 cid log head and fabbed up another one to accept a 2bbl or 4bbl carb setup…"
don't forget "Powerband"s pic and thread here. there's some good stuff on it he'd take a PM too I'm sure.
 
I took a few pics showing the size of the intake ports and the angle I cut the tops off; toward the valve cover. Plus with some studded head bolts inserted to provide an anchor for eyebolts to attach the new intake. I cut the angle because I want the intake lower; coming out level instead of upwards. The upper section I angled off was the inner radius of the curved port; it will be a smooth transition without any severe angles. My head is cast steel as denoted by the grinding sparks; light yellow and very long, instead of short orange like cast iron. I'll try again later to upload pics. I just want one small four barrel, like a 390 Holley or an old WCFB Carter or Four Jet Rochester. Something about 400 cfm with vacuum operated secondaries.
 
ok here we go
16g4ft.jpg

w3LwNX.jpg

oHinU4.jpg
 
I wasnt planning on having a flange on the head; only on the intake. O-bolts from the head studs to hold it on and a few alignment pins to keep it in place. I need the carb low so there will be a curve down where it comes off the head.
 
Look at the bottom pic top port does that port look small,bad ? I can see the whole valve, with a high port with the wide funnel entry cut off. These late model heads are no after market race head but fix the one opening with a couple carb bores closer to where they are needed. I do not think they are the big dog people think.
 
OpelGT+3point3":3tryvp1r said:
I took a few pics showing the size of the intake ports and the angle I cut the tops off; toward the valve cover. Plus with some studded head bolts inserted to provide an anchor for eyebolts to attach the new intake. I cut the angle because I want the intake lower; coming out level instead of upwards. The upper section I angled off was the inner radius of the curved port; it will be a smooth transition without any severe angles. My head is cast steel as denoted by the grinding sparks; light yellow and very long, instead of short orange like cast iron. I'll try again later to upload pics. I just want one small four barrel, like a 390 Holley or an old WCFB Carter or Four Jet Rochester. Something about 400 cfm with vacuum operated secondaries.


w3LwNX.jpg




I've worked with the Wrought Cast Carters before, both Double (WCD) and Four Barrel (WCFB)
Mainly GM crap like Buick 8's and 62 Vettes. Before those in 2011, I was probably influenced by the GM in line Pommy sixes, and the whole thing was the simplicty for setting up multiple carbs from the indermediate shaft on the firewall. Falcons have that same key idea...simplicty!

The WCD I like more because the parts situation is easier, and again, I like the easy GM linkages, and the single Twin H Hudson Hornet air cleaners that come with them.

daytona07turkeyrun.jpg


No one knows about the WCD's, there size, and ease of tune.

People think they are YF's














The old Nash/ AMC based 195.6 and 232's had them in 1-5/16 and 1-7/16" throttle versions, and old carb dating back to the 40's, but so darned good.

No-one did CFM readings, but from my sluth work, the earlier 1-5/16 ones, about 227 cfm at 1.5" Hg, the later, about 273 cfm at 1.5"Hg.

Two up, 454 to 545 cfm on an I6 at 1.5" Hg, rated as a 4bbl.


DSCN0732.JPG

DSCN0734.JPG


63-rambler-196-block-left.jpg


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If you use the Rat Roster Cross Ram Smoky Yunick style plate on a 6 cylinder,

I started in 2011, but got busy earning a living

IMG_6741-1.jpg


My bacground was twin carb CrossRam and Twin throttle body Crossfire Chevy intake manifolds, so when I found the old AMC/ Nash six cylinder stuff, it was a slam dunk to do it on a Ford log head six.

4-1969-crossram-hemi-z28-camaro-engine.jpg


You can mount two of them, and get WCFB results with cheaper parts and belive me, no one understands or wants WCD's, but boy howdy are they cheap and easy to tune.

You can have blue printed Edelbrock jets, and just grab early YS/YF's metering rods. As I said, they look just like Carter YFs, but a couple of Buick 8 725s Cater WCD's can be found for little money on ebay, and the leather 5/8" cup x 2.325 overall length accelerator pump for Carter carburetors is still around from Mikes carbs. http://www.carburetor-parts.com/WCD_c_113.html


I like E85, but it forms algee, and if its put into an uncleaned Zinc Oxide carb which has ever had TEL fuel in it, then it needs to be cleaned, and given a fuel conditioner.

TK 7 is great, but subject to a lawsuit relating to some shady dealings emanating from the business owner. TheTK 7 additive for gasoline isn't in question.

These days, Lucas 10013 Fuel Treatment fuel is a good option. 10020 if relly bad. Anything that kills algee will stop the precipitation eating the Zinc Oxide or other material the earlier carb bodies are made from.

Modern gasoline and oxygenated blends are designed to fix a fuel supply and emissions problems by using the results of cropping, and its a win win situation, but has the issues of what happens with long term stale fuel. TEL was the only real solution, but we have moved on.

images


Video's
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uTaT0O8sUD0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-tVrUC0NKcs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6QlxU0eAbRQ
 
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=76310&p=587571#p587571
gb500":4n5isnx2 said:
paul knott was the original owner in New south wales, Australia. now sold on to another Victoria , Australia dude.

paul knotts youtube vid:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QTgb4knAuI




viewtopic.php?f=1&t=75335&p=580120#p580120
gb500":4n5isnx2 said:
and this 1960/61 falcon (XK) racer in Australia :
cut off log , some hose and clamps to the orig circular inlet stubs left and triple webers .

no trouble with hitting the suspension tower ...
but also no underbonnet reinforcing sections left

this guy is in the Victorian early falcon club and races successfully .after buying the car off paul Knott......




and earlier photo with different inlet trumpets


With a few tubes and some knowledge, Paul Knott is getting 280 hp at as low as 6500 rpm from just 170 cubes in his 6 XK Falcon.

XK170139CUTDOWN.jpg



Master lookup for modified logs

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=72240
 
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