1968 Mustang inline 6 200ci, manual 3 speed questions

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1968Mustang200ciManual

Active member
Hey guys, I finally got my 1968 Mustang 200ci manual running good. Before it wouldn't get over 45mph and had hardly any power; also was a little hard to start. I still have a few questions. This is a 1968 200ci and it has a vacuum line hooked up to the carb and then to the distributor does this sound correct? Theres also a hose that runs from the carb where the heat choke is and to the pcv valve, which im sure is normal. Is the air/fuel mixture screw only for the air/fuel mix at idle, or is it also for higher rpm's? Is there a way to tune these carbs besides idle? What do you guys think are the first things I should do to upgrade this engine besides the distributor. I was thinking about either super or turbo charging it. I want to hear a little about your guys' setups. Thanks.
 
Do you have a timing light with an advance, and a vacuum guage? Tachometer?
If you can get it running and warmed up you could also do a compression test.

Yeah the idle/air screw is just for low idle speed.
Ballpark tuning is screw it in until it stumbles then back out until it smooths out.
How does it idle, got a tach? Is it bogging out when floored?
 
It doesn't bog out when floored anymore, yes I just bought a timing light but there is no settings on it. Do you know if this car originally was vacuum advanced? Thanks
 
Glad you found the place that 68 is a nice ride, I like that body style.
There's lots of smart guys on here that can help you with tuning problems. Not me I am basically just a parts hanger.
As far as performance there are many fun and interesting mods you can make. Several guys on here are using a turbo and having fun. Seems like a good idea to me because you can get a big power increase and if you shop for parts right and do most of the work yourself it is reasonable in cost.
A T-5 is a good trans to consider as it can be a not to expensive 5 spd od. Once again just sensible parts shopping and sweat equity. I have seen T-5s on Craigs list for as low as 200 but you have to have an adapter and other stuff. Several guys on here are using them so you can read about it right here. A five spd od is actually a performance mod because you get a close ratio four speed instead of the 3 spd pus an od for economical relaxed freeway cruising.
Spread the word to any friends that might be interested in Ford six vehicles.
 
1968Mustang200ciManual":xe7yfzy2 said:
It doesn't bog out when floored anymore, yes I just bought a timing light but there is no settings on it. Do you know if this car originally was vacuum advanced? Thanks
Click to expand...

Yes if it still has its original engine and all the other parts (i.e. the correct 1968 Carb and Distribitor) then the distributor will have both the Vacuum and Centrivical Advance Systems. These were very good distributors for a points type system and can be molded or you can also swap in a Dura Spark II. For your timing light, look for the Dampener's timing Mark / Line use some chock or paint it white so you can see it better, then look for the timing tab marks on the engines front cover. Experiment with different base timing settings to see what your engine likes start with about 10 to 12 degrees BTDC. Good luck with your tuning :nod:
 
Thanks guys i appreciate it. Yeah I've really been considering increasing the compression ratio as that will increase hp and torque drastically as long as I can get it high enough. I'm fine with adding octane booster or other supplements to the fuel to keep it from pre detonating. What do you guys think are the easiest ways to increase compression on these engines without dropping the crankshaft and pistons; Ex. Head work and the like. And how much do you think would be the most compression you can get out of them easily? Thanks.
 
A good suggestion from bubba as long as your working in the ignition department would be get a DSII and the module and wires. I found a great setup at picnpull that even had almost new wires on half price day.
Also one of the members on here frequently sells DSII distributors that he goes thru and recurves for maximum performance. Look in the parts for sale section. it may get you 10-15 horsepower over stock if installed properly and will just run better with better mileage and faster starts. It is one of the best mods you can make for the money.
 
I would suggest a quick read of the on-line resource Classic Inlines dot com
1) It will tell U that your model was a transition yr. (the 1st of the new) that a feedback system (carb to distributor) was advanced beyond.
Also it has many pages for many technical points that can get you up to speed on this (any internal combustion) vehicle. It actually sponsored this site.

Another forum @ this site is for tech. assistance on a ford 200 turbo. See above on this page - below the almost top-most horizontal dark line ("User Control Panel", etc) is a grey horizontal with "Board Index" on it. Click on it, scroll down to 2) "Turbo, Nitrous, Supercharging" & have more fun readin! I would also suggest you do the reading in that order( 1) then, 2) ) so as to understand the basic system you have - B 4 going on to " turbo" but that is not entirely necessary.

Then - 1st order of business is to get a safe, reliable rig, later beauty and mods are the nxt money takers!

Hope to C U here again soon.

May I B the 1st to say W E L C O M E !!!
 
One other thing I was wondering is what I can use cylinders heads from that will fit this 1968 200ci engine... Will a newer inline 6 fuel injected of any sort work?
 
Howdy 68Mustang:

And welcome to THE FORUM. FYI Your '68 got a couple of significant upgrades. 1st the distributor was upgraded to a point type with both centrifugal and vacuum advance. The carb, an Autolite 1100 was changed to eliminate the Spark Control Valve and add a ported vacuum source to mate to the new distributor. The carb was down sized from 185 cdm to 150 cfm, resulting in a significant step down in performance The other positive upgrade is that your three speed trans is a 3.03 all synchro trans.

Where are you located? That will effect tuning suggestions. What is you plan for this car? Do you have a Service Manual for your car? That would be a great first investment.

On timing, look for a nick in the front crank pulley. It is hard to find. Once you locate it clean it and then mark it with a light color. Many use a piece of chalk. I brighten my with white or silver finger mail polish (and hope my wife doesn't notice). Now disconnect the vacuum line from the carb to the distributor and plug it. I use a golf tee to plug it. Now loosen the hold down nut only enough to rotate the distributor. Now, hook up your timing light. IIRC the stock initial advance for your year is 5 degrees BTC. Depending on your locale you can safely increase that to 10 degrees for improved performance and mileage.

Of course this assumes that you've already cleaned and gapped you plugs, set the point gap and checked the condition of all ignition parts. Also check to assure that your vacuum advance is working. IF you need help with this, just say so.

Good luck, read deeply and plan.

Adios, David
 
Yeah I've already timed it. I think it's flooding because I smell gas once it's started so I think it's either the choke which I've already adjusted so I don't actually think its that; or the float/bowl or the idle mixture screw. I have a timing light and I have the timing set at 10 degrees. On the harmonic balancer there are 3 marks so I marked all of them with white colored pencil. And found the actual mark once it was running. Thanks for the extra info in case I didn't know how to time it I appreciate it CZ! I do not exactly know how to check the vacuum advance and also the carburetor is not an autolite 1100 but it is very close, the tag says Autolite C90F A. I can't figure out how to post pictures. On the carb there are two spots for a vacuum house and the one on the left side of of he carb is connected to the distributor and the one on the right side is plugged with a brass plug that isn't even threaded for that hole. What do you guys think? Thank you.
 
Actually the brass plug where I believe it's plugging up a vacuum, is on the same side as the vacuum hose that runs to the distributor. So its not on the right side as I stated before. And I'm in Montana. Thanks everyone for the input. It's appreciated.
 
1968Mustang, you will find most everything you need to know on posting pictures in the below link.

viewtopic.php?f=47&t=48863

Also when you are posting there is a section where you can add a file too. I am a bit old school so I haven't tried posting from an I Phone or Android yet, I am certain there are site members that have done that. Hope that is some help to you. Good luck :nod:
 
@ 7 posts I don't believe he's "there yet"
2 post pic (is it still 25 after 'the changes' a month ago?).
 
:unsure: Something that I have found useful for marking the timing marks,is to clean the balancer with carb cleaner after scrubbing good with a wire brush.Then wipe off with a cloth.Then I use the yellow chalk that the salvage yards use to mark parts.Seems to show up better than the white stuff,and lasts longer too.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
 
chad":d923fgr6 said:
@ 7 posts I don't believe he's "there yet"
2 post pic (is it still 25 after 'the changes' a month ago?).
Click to expand...

:shock: Chad As far as I know you can add pictures on your very first post, there is a 5 post min. though before you can PM other members, that Mike had set up years ago for protection.
 
Howdy Back 68Stang:

On the vacuum advance, take a close look at the arm between the vacuum canister and where it enters the distributor body. If you can see it, watch it closely as you slowly and quickly increase engine rpm. IF it moves you are getting some vacuum advance. Next time you replace the points, closely inspect the movement of the vacuum advance plate, pivot posts and springs. Clean and lube as needed. Does you vacuum canister have a hose nipple both inside and outside of the canister? If it does, you have a vacuum advance/retard canister.

On your carb a C90F could be a 1969 Autolite. If you are real lucky it could be an elusive Autolite 1101 used only one year, 1969 on the '69 Mustang with a 250 engine. They are rated at 210 cfm and have a ported vacuum tap for the distributor advance. A photo will not help much in IDing because they appear externally identical to the '68 1100. The only concrete evidence is measuring the throttle bore which would require removal. An 1100 tb measures 1 7/16". The 1101 tb measures 1 11/16". The 1101 makes for a nice performance upgrade for a '68 200.

I wasn't clear, I wanted to know your locale to address elevation in making a suggestion about initial advance setting. Higher elevation can safely tolerate more initial advance. How is 10 degrees working for you?

You mentioned smelling gas. Since gas evaporates very quickly on a hot engine you may have to take a close look at the carb after a drive and immediately after shut off. Look closely at the top gasket, fuel line into carb and down inside the throat. Do you know how long it has been since the carb has been rebuilt?

Good luck and keep it coming. Have you found a Service Manual yet?

Adios, David
 
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