Building a 200 First build

Well, im starting to build up a 200 my 61 Ranchero with my father. Im looking for a bit of help trying to research the nessesary parts. My father and i are familier with engine assembly procedure but mostly for gm sb's. we have picked up the ford 6 bible. This engine will be going in the 61 once it's fully restored so if anything else needs to change with it then not a problem.(wiring)

Here's what i have now. 1968 dual pattern block and matching head 1.75 bore. Weber 32/36 with adapter, Cloyes t chain set(single), stock manifold. Planning on a t5 from modern drivelines and a ford 8.8 explorer rear w/posi with 3:73 or 3:55
From what i understand the early blocks have forged rods, correct?
Im planing on a mild build and am looking for parts. mainly camshaft and other recomended mods along the way to ensure longevity.
I've heard to use sbf rod studs(machining needed). plus needing to machine head to compensate for newer head gasket thickness
The block is in decent shape It ran well and upon disasembly i found very little ridge at cyl top.

My bigest question is what what camshaft should i get. The car will be used as a daily /weekend play thing. but i would like enough get up and go that people will question whats under the hood. it still needs to be highway capleable. Manuel brakes and steering if it matters. eletric wipers

Also what dizzy and igition setup will i need. i think i have a stock 68 dizzy. I was looking at going with a pertronix(points replacement) type system to keep the cost down.

Any help and advise is greatly appriciated.
Thanks
Chris

when selecting a cam, start with deciding what you want from the vehicle, and where the engine will spend 80% of its time. in your case that is a daily driver. that means the engine will spend 80% of its time in the off idle to 5000 rpm range.

now you want to look at what the after market has available for your engine, and select a cam that works best in the chosen rpm range.

next you need to choose particular aspects of the cam, those being lobe separation angle, duration, valve lift.

lobe separation angle is important as it tell the engine basically what its dynamic compression will be. thus you need to know the static compression ratio before you can select a cam here. if you have a high compression engine, say 10:1, you want a narrower lobe separation angle(LSA from now one) to reduce low speed high dynamic compression and thus reduce cylinder pressure to reduce detonation issues. in this case a 108 LSA works nicely. on the other hand if you have a lower compression ratio, say 9:1 a 110 or 111 LSA tricks the engine into thinking it has a higher compression ratio than it really does.

next valve duration. if at all possible pick your duration at .050 valve lift, as that is the point where airflow really starts. the other duration number is known as seat to seat or advertised duration. less accurate but still useful for comparison. a .050 duration in the 210-220 range works nicely.

last valve lift. you want as much as possible to build as much low end torque as possible, but you dont want too much to prevent issues with valve springs. in your case something around .440 lift works just fine.

now you can fudge these numbers a bit up or down depending what you are willing to compromise.

Enjoy the build,dont rush it. it will be life long memories with "dad" also once its done then all you can do is drive it................
bob

p/s
I still have my 1st car me and dad built (a 1923 T-BUCKET) started building it in 1964. take bunches of real pictures for the future........... you,ll be glad you did later in life trust me.

Thank you.
I think we were planing on a 9.0-9.5 static (calculated?)
Standard rods with standard dished pistons zero decked (oversized) plus milling of head.

We've built two other cars, his 56 Chevy wagon with a 327. (Hot rod). And my mother's 56 Chevy with a 260 bone stock. It's her first car we still have it. I'm familiar with making memories and I'm shooting myself in the foot for not getting my butt out there and helping.

I'm was originally looking at CL but I know that's not an option now. However their website is still useful. They have a comp cam listed as 260: 260/260 - 212/212 -.440/.440 110* 1000-5000. Would this work for my setup. I know low vacuum can be an issue with auto and power brakes. I was planing on a 110 lobe center because of this.

Dragonlich1961":1jwyx435 said:

I'm was originally looking at CL but I know that's not an option now. However their website is still useful. They have a comp cam listed as 260: 260/260 - 212/212 -.440/.440 110* 1000-5000. Would this work for my setup. I know low vacuum can be an issue with auto and power brakes. I was planing on a 110 lobe center because of this.

Click to expand...

that cam would be a very good one to use for your application.

What would you recommend for ignition. I thought about using pertronix but I don't know if it will work with my carb( weber32/36) and stock 1968 dizzy.

Any other recommended mods like when to use studs vs bolts.

Thank you for your help.
Chris

Dragonlich1961":oqj7sd7y said:

What would you recommend for ignition. I thought about using pertronix but I don't know if it will work with my carb( weber32/36) and stock 1968 dizzy.

Any other recommended mods like when to use studs vs bolts.

Thank you for your help.
Chris

Click to expand...

I would use the ARP rod bolts no matter what, that is a weak spot, heavier then stock valve springs as well (go with cam recommendations if using a performance cam).

At a certain point, main and head studs become a good idea (head studs make getting the head/gasket on straight and lined up, without damaging the gasket as a bonus), myself, I was not going to re-use 50 year old highly stressed hardware, and the studs are really not that expensive as a replacement, and insurance)

the best ignition i set up was on my 66 falcon. i used the duraspark distributor, wired to a chrysler orange ignition box(their high performance street box), and hooked to an msd blaster lll coil. it would light off easily in 30 degree weather, and always ran without a hiccup.

Get this.

viewtopic.php?f=86&t=74626

2X above.
W E L C O M E Chris !!!
No vac problems w/that cam.
U got the '68 so the LOM/SCV you may have read about in (what U call the ford six bible) the Handbook is not an issue for upgrades. The basic DSII system (custom recurve the dizzy), it's OEM 'box' (get the 'blue strain relief 1), good coil (oil filled), or again the above options are reliable, accessable, inexpensive and a good up grade rather than Petronix (there are many of us who think similar). HEI ( a GM system U may B familure) is on line at: go fast for less dot com.
The intake, as U may know is the weak point and hard to work around. (B4 final decisions on machining think about other's ideas of "direct mount" an up-graded carb.) Some saw it off & go from there (too radical for others). We have a nitros, SC, turbo forum if interested. Go w/the double roller timing set, we 250/4.1ers hafta go thru some stuff to fit em., if U can.
Do the recommended cam change & machining (3 > valve job, seats, chuck the umbrells seals). Port'n polish, gasket matching, pocket port are further on if interested as is cc'ing the head and zero deck the block. I'd say skip the forged pistons but am far from an expert in these things.
I DO like ur carb but real performance can B gained from the bigger Webbers (DGEV, DGES). I am not a tuner (will B using a Carter RBS) but U sound more experienced and the 38/38 is suggested as well as Autolite 2100/2150.
I bet if U ask fast U can get the CI headers (I did a month ago),
Not sure if the shelby drop up front (I got a bronk) goes in the Chero, I'd use discs up there too as ur drivin in modern traffic.
T5 (bent8, world class) is a good choice, yer informed for a che**y guy…
8-0
Keep visitin, & keep us informed on yer progress!

Thanks Chad.

I'm not going on far enough to warrant turbos and exesive modification. So no lopping off our cast one peice manifolds.

The dual chain I understand is a custom creation by Cl. But that will be had to track down now. Plus I don't think it will be nessesay with my build. I love to over engineer, it never hurts.(except my wallet)

I'm familiar with hei but have only delt with it on one occasion a 1978 olds 260 retrofitted with msd.
I'm not going with forged pistons, just oversized standard replacement pistons(boring). My understanding is that early blocks like my 68 use forged con. rods from factory.
We are going with discs up front(csrp stage 1) with a drummed 8.8 to fit 14's off a ranger 89 alum
Possible power brakes. That may be an after thought later. My plan is manual, cheaper. His may be power.
If I can find a dsll then I would like to do so. The wiring change should be easy to install.
Is there anything I've missed. If comp does not recommend springs, what should I use stock springs off of a 289 or 302?

I just finished a 200 build for my 66 coupe. Sounds very similar to what you are planning. I'm very happy with how it runs and the added HP I've gained (it was pretty tired). The cam and head work I'm sure made a big difference too. I dont know the actual HP numbers, but the butt in the seat test is a lot different from before...

Block - bored .030 over, stock style pistons, Comp Cams 260H cam, Comp Cams timing chain set, ARP rod bolts, used stock main bolts. Head - 3 angle valve job, hardened exhaust seats, port work to open up air flow, upgraded springs(what was recommended by Comp). Ignition - pertronix ignition in new stock distributor with flamethrower coil. I also did the T5 conversion with ModerDriveLine parts, which was much easier than I anticipated. I also added the CI valve cover and cold air induction kit, Dual outlet header, Waldron's dual exhaust and port divider in the exhaust ports 3-4. Kept the stock Autolite 1100, fresh rebuilt.

Here are some pics, if you scroll through you will find some engine pics https://my1966mustang.shutterfly.com/pictures/8

Hope this helps!

Thank you 60s.

You have a beautiful Stang. Very similar to my plan.
I won't use my original carb because I already have the Weber and my original is needing rebuild.
ARP bolt package is planed. I don't want to reuse 50 year old bolts.
Peronix I think is the plan since it's cheaper and quicker.
I might go with the cold air kit haven't decided. I think the early falcons have less hood clearance than your Stang.
I plan on using a stock cover that says (powered by Ford) I like it.
I've originally planed on keeping the stock 3 speed tree but found out really quick that it won't be strong enough. So 5 speed it is. Modern drivelines seamed easy.
I think I've got the right Bell housings my 61 came to me with a 200(OEM is 144) and I've got the 68 both are dual pattern. One has a two bolt starter and the other has a three bolt. Which one is needed for the t5?

"...Which one is needed for the t5?…"
Can't tell U…
Do U have the 'world class' transmission? - I think it's the bent8,
aren't there at least 2?

I don't have the t5 yet. The tranny I end up with is what eve one modern drivelines sells.

I know one of the bells is larger than the other and I think that's the one needed. I don't remember which. Both bells came off of a 3 speed.

Looks like I have both a 8.5" flywheel (3 bolt starter) and a 9" flywheel (2 bolt starter). Both came off of a 200 with dual pattern and a three. Which one is the better to use?

Dragonlich1961":1t2rnku2 said:

Thank you 60s.

You have a beautiful Stang. Very similar to my plan.
I won't use my original carb because I already have the Weber and my original is needing rebuild.
ARP bolt package is planed. I don't want to reuse 50 year old bolts.
Peronix I think is the plan since it's cheaper and quicker.
I might go with the cold air kit haven't decided. I think the early falcons have less hood clearance than your Stang.
I plan on using a stock cover that says (powered by Ford) I like it.
I've originally planed on keeping the stock 3 speed tree but found out really quick that it won't be strong enough. So 5 speed it is. Modern drivelines seamed easy.
I think I've got the right Bell housings my 61 came to me with a 200(OEM is 144) and I've got the 68 both are dual pattern. One has a two bolt starter and the other has a three bolt. Which one is needed for the t5?

Click to expand...

Thanks!
Pertonix was an easy install and works good IMO.
Hood clearance is pretty tight on my stang, so you may not be able to use the CAI system.
ModernDriveLine was very helpful getting me all the parts, they will help you match the right adapter to your bellhousing, just give them the serial number off it. Mine was the C7 bell, two bolt starter. I bought the T5 local from a trans builder. You will probably need the prior to '93 T5, anything after '85(I think was the year) is the "world Class" version. You may need the later model T5 for your application though, just give them a call, John there was very helpful.

Dragonlich1961":3ef89lka said:

I don't have the t5 yet. The tranny I end up with is what eve one modern drivelines sells.

I know one of the bells is larger than the other and I think that's the one needed. I don't remember which. Both bells came off of a 3 speed.

Click to expand...

I used the larger bolt pattern bell(C7), upper holes on the block. Two bolt starter setup.

That 61 Ranchero is a great vehicle, my good friend has one he is driving and working on. Yours should go good and be very highway capable with the T5 as the od is very helpful. It will change the driving experience when you can cruise down the highway without winding the engine out plus you get the close ratio four speed for non highway driving. You'll have the right gear when you need it. Column shifters are way cool in my opinion though.It is a light vehicle so even a mild performance motor is going to move it well.