Ok, so what exactly do I have here?

So, I own a 1963 Falcon Fordor Wagon. One of the previous owners swapped a 200ci (I think anyways) engine. I've been trying to buy some replacement parts, i.e. fuel pump, distributor, carburetor, without much success. So far, everything has been wrong the first attempt. So, here are my casting numbers

Block - D8BE-6015-CD
Head - D7BE-5090-AB
Exhaust - C8DE-9480-A

So, I understand the basics of the Ford numbering system. The block is a 78, the head is a 77 and the exhaust manifold is a 68. But, from what? How do I order things from the parts stores and such when I need replacement parts?

D8BE-6015-CD decodes as
D = 1970
8 = year so yes 1978
B = the Car line the part was designed for in this case because it's a 1978 it would be a Fairmont
E = the Ford Engineering Department so this was for the Engine line
6015 = is Fords generic number that denotes an Engine Block
C&D = denotes that the part was redesigned, improved, revised
Because it came out of a Fairmont and is an inline six it's a 200 engine.

The head number decodes the same with the exception that the number (5090) is Fords generic number for a head and might be original to that short block. To know for sure you will need to find the Casting date codes for both the block and the head. It's looks like a small tag with a screw head on each end it will have a number a letter and another one or two numbers. With that code you can determine the exact day Ford cast up each part in the foundry.

With engine swaps though sometimes you may need to use the part that fits the year car model chassis rather than the engine unless you also mod the chassis to fit and work with the newer parts. Let's say in the case of distributor from the 1978 Fairmont is greatly superior (it's a DuraSpark II) to the original 1963 one (which is a LOD) but to use it in your 63 you will need to do a little rewiring and or get the harness and control box from a Fairmont or othe Ford 200 that is 1975 or newer. With the newer distributor you need to have the newer carburetor too, but the performance would be much better then the 63 parts. On the fuel pump you could use either the 1963 Falcon fuel pump or go with the newer 1978 using the new one would probally require modding the fuel lines a little. So if you can post some pictures of the parts your trying to replace we can help you ID them. I suggest that you also make a binder type note book with years and part numbers of all your parts as you ID to refer too it can save you lots of time when chasing parts. Good luck

one thing to remember about ford part numbers is that they indicate when the part was released for production, so that block may have been cast before the head was. the only way to kno for sure is to find the casting date on the part itself.

The distributor in the car is not a Duraspark. From what I can figure, it's a late 60's vintage, probably for a Falcon. I ordered one for a 1968 Falcon, because I really can't afford a new carburetor right now on top of what I've already purchased. The fuel pump issue I'm having is the arm that goes into the block. The one that came out points lower than the one I purchased. In addition, the flange is thicker, so my bolts don't work (now that's not a huge issue, I realize). I'm not concerned with the fuel lines as the car has rubber lines going from the chassis to the pump and from the pump to the carburetor. I just want to be able to bolt it on at this point.

joshthetoolguy":l1pgq3rl said:

The distributor in the car is not a Duraspark. From what I can figure, it's a late 60's vintage, probably for a Falcon. I ordered one for a 1968 Falcon, because I really can't afford a new carburetor right now on top of what I've already purchased. The fuel pump issue I'm having is the arm that goes into the block. The one that came out points lower than the one I purchased. In addition, the flange is thicker, so my bolts don't work (now that's not a huge issue, I realize). I'm not concerned with the fuel lines as the car has rubber lines going from the chassis to the pump and from the pump to the carburetor. I just want to be able to bolt it on at this point.

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On the distributor a 1967 to 74 is a real good unit for a points type but like the Dura Spark II it also needs the later style carb to work well with it. Do you know which carb you have on it?

That looks like the right fuel pump used on a late 1970's 200 / 250. On these later style fuel pumps used on the 200's & 250's there are a few things to watch out for. First is that most of the fuel pumps are bolted on upside down compared to the early Falcon fuel pumps. So check that you are installing it the correct orientation use the fuel pump flange gasket to check it on the block. When it's lined up to fit the hole then install the pump so that it's flange will be sealed against the gasket right. If it's still hard the put on try turning the engine a little so that camshafts fuel pump eccentric is at its lowest point and it will go on real easy. You can use a mirror and some light to see the position of the camshaft. On the bolts measure the difference in thickness of the two fuel pumps then add that difference onto the lenght of the old bolts when you find replacements and you should be golden. Good luck

Why does the carb matter? How are the two tied together? On the fuel pump, I never payed attention to the shape of the flange to be honest. I just put it in with the same general orientation as the one that came off. I'll have to look at that when I get back home. That would certainly change the orientation of the rod.

Yes I can't tell by your picture of the fuel pumps without seeing the mounting flanges from the back side which way the new pump mounts. Of the stock type carb's there were several versions (Holley 1904, Autolite 1100, or a replacement Holley 1940) that were used on the early six's 1960 to 1966 had a spark control valve (SCV) that worked together with the old style Load O Matic (LOM) distributors. So they don't provide the right vacuum advance signal to work correctly with the later distributors, unless they have been moded to do so, or as a work around you can also use straight manafold vacuum to the distributor. Since your 1963 has been moded it may or may not have one of the old style carb's. Good luck

The fuel pump mounts the same way the original one did. So, back to square one on that. The vacuum for the distributor advance currently comes from the carburetor. I'll have to take a picture of the carburetor, because I'm not sure what it is, to be honest. I can't read any numbers on it or anything.

Welcome to the forum (& site) Josh!

You see the pleasures and difficulties of owning an older vehicle. You seem like a mechanically inclined guy (probably wrked on ur vehicles B4). This vehicle will be easier to work on than many built later (closer to today). It is simpler, non-computer controlled, etc. I hope I'm not seen as patronizing here! You may want to spend some time and get to know it's basic method of goin down the road. I would recommend a visit to the Classic Inlines site. The gentelman who started that site of technical articles and parts sales also launched this site. He just passed away so do not buy anything from the site. It will not send U any prts altho will take ur $. We R wrkin on that issue.
If you will keep/continue to wrk and upgrade ur vehicle I would also suggest a purchase of something many of us use we call the "Ford 6 Handbook", and of course a 'Chiltons' (or similar general service manual @ many prts stores) or the ultimate ($60 - 100) the Ford Service Manual (mechanics use). All for "what exactly do I have here". Anyway, the CI site is free, large & will explain the carb/distributer feedback or coordination system - SCV/LOM (plus many, many more!)…

I hope these suggestions lower any frustration you would otherwise encounter. Hope to see more of you here as you go along…

My 170 is the same way. It's a C5 casting iirc. At some point they changed the fuel pump angle. And yes, it's definately a 170, T marked. I actually forced/bolted one of those wrong pumps to my 170 and it instantly snapped the arm off the pump. Who knows what it did to the cam but it ran fine after I rebuilt the old pump... You can get the one you need from MAC's online or maybe look at one for a 144 and compare

http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_econoline/fuel-pump-144-6-cylinder.html

my 170 has the 1/4" oil pump drive as well, that's probably the cut off for the fuel pump. Maybe upside down? lol


edit:

Sorry C1 casting

C1DE-6015-A

joshthetoolguy":2wreugvk said:

The fuel pump mounts the same way the original one did. So, back to square one on that. The vacuum for the distributor advance currently comes from the carburetor. I'll have to take a picture of the carburetor, because I'm not sure what it is, to be honest. I can't read any numbers on it or anything.

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As I mentioned in the above post try turning the engine over some with a socket on the crankshaft Dampner bolt so the cam lobe moves. You can use a mirror to see it and when it gets to the lowest point the fuel pump will go on easy. Good luck

Hi, Summit has a picture of the new pump. The inlet and outlet face up. They face down on my pump and my pump looks like your old pump. I have a feeling it is the wrong pump. I see the lever angle is completely different and it looks like the bolt holes on the old one are much lower in relation to the lever (in your picture). Try to find a picture of your next new pump before you buy it, and we pack the lever area with grease before we install the new pumps. Good luck.

Your old pump looks rebuildable, if you can find a rebuild kit for it. Just throwing that out there...