1970 bronco 170 valve adjustment

I had to remove the head on my 1970 bronco 170 ci 6 cup. Put the head back on and assumed I had solid lift fled set valves to .018 while running and warmed up it makes more tapping noise from the valve train then I remember enough so I am not comfortable driving it. Is there a way to tell if I have solid or hydraulic lifter with just the valve cover off. I get conflicting info on the different sites??? Thanks

Ford stopped using the solids lifter cams after the 1964 models. So if it's an original 1970 engine then it really should have a Hyd. Lifter cam in it. But you should check your block casting numbers to know for sure if it's the original. Good luck

Glad you made it over here with your Bronco.
Consider getting a copy of the Falcon Performance Handbook, it is very helpful if you own a 170.

Hi, a lot has happened to our Ford 6s over time. If it was my engine and I wanted to know what you are looking for I might try to gently force a push rod downward into the lifter. If you have solid lifters they won't budge, if you have hydraulic lifters I think they may move in and out a little because inside the hydraulic lifter is a spring holding it all up. I'm assuming you have adjustable rockers, so if you have hydraulic lifters you can run the engine and quiet each valve down until the ticking stops, one at a time. If you tighten too much your engine will start to shake. Go slow on each valve and you may have to repeat the whole procedure another time, a little loosen,a little tighten. If you have solid lifters you might not have all the lifters adjusted properly. You need to check solids when the rocker is loose on the valve. A warm engine is best. Sometimes you can adjust a couple of the valves before rotating the engine. You want to feel the valve and rocker just grab the feeler gauge but still let the feeler gauge slip a little. Good luck

Check as above, but chances are you have hydraulic lifters and someone installed an adjustable rocker assy in there. If you had solid lifters you would know by how the engine sounded before you pulled the head. They have a tapping sound, think VW'ish. Click and Clack. You adjust them with a go/no go feeler while running. My 64 170 has solid lifters

"…check your block casting numbers…"
Yes! ID 1st!
I'd look @ the head too: cams, heads, valve trains can B swapped in 4o/50 yrs…
Lill as many guys like 'books' there's lots 2 B said bout the CI tech pages and the "Handbook".

Post a pic & we can help a lill more. Perry's upgraded it so well I've even ided the crosshatchin on a cyl wall…

Hi, I have no problem doing what econoline said, adjusting solid lifters on a running engine, I have done that myself, or using a go-no go feeler gauge. Most mechanics have a way they prefer and get good results. I set solid lifters on a warm engine with a plain KD 161 feeler gauge not running. I find the engine running, pumping oil, and all the movement to be a distraction on solid lifter cars. I work on solid lifter cars with the engine off, once and done. On hydraulic lifter cars with the engine running, just tight enough to quiet them down. I like to go over each rocker, gently loosen until it clicks, and gently tighten until it quiets, maybe twice over. Some mechanics will attach a vacuum gauge. If you tighten too much the vacuum gauge and engine will flutter, although the engine may stabilize after a couple of seconds. You will get a feel for what makes your engine run best. Good luck