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BIG 6 farmer wrote: Exhaust Manifolds, Front F.I. & Rear is carb. type, with front 3 ports cut-off. Steel cap welded on using Stainless rod. Rear Man. bolted to intake, with working Heat Riser. 2.25 in. pipes to Ultra Flo Muffler. Single 3 in. straight out.
Hope many here consider my Exhaust Manifold setup, it is WAY BETTER than running hot coolant to intake.
Nashtooth wrote:How is your intake heat WAY BETTER? Have you done it both ways?
Harte3 wrote:Yes,the water heated arrangement does take a bit longer. But when it is cold out and I know I'm going to be out and about I plug in the block heater at least 2-3 hours before firing up and driving. Works for me. I've used block heaters for some 30 years...and wouldn't be without them in a cold climate.
Harte3 wrote:With an Offy DP the suggested carb orientation is with the primaries next to the engine.
Ford blue is all we do wrote: Also what is the best way to install the carb? My truck linkage is pull to open and the way the carb goes on manifold it needs to be pushed? Thanks again for all the tutelage! Kyle
Sounds like your on your way, & doin fine. Pump cams are something to play with. ( it seems i liked the red ones ). as high as you are, & with your headers. 2-3 bigger jets, might be right on? Glad to hear you got coolant to intake. i know if you can rig up air cleaner to suck hot air off headers, it will run much smoother & keep carb from icing. unhook in summer time. A lot of oxygen sensors will interchange. from what i know, its mostly about how many wires. Heated or not. Call Jegs Tech. Line, they should know.Ford blue is all we do wrote:Okay Thanks, A 37 squirter with what cam color. I bought an assortment off Ebay. I am at between 2800 and 3300 feet above sea level. (I forgot that part of the equation) Also thought the carb heat was not super critical until after it became cold with the headers on I found out how critical it is! So lesson learned there! The Offy has the hot water heat plate installed and ready to go. I purchased a SunPro 7011 which is an air/fuel ratio meter and Jeg's sold me a Denso #234-4127 sensor, Does anyone know if that is the correct sensor? Also what is the best way to install the carb? My truck linkage is pull to open and the way the carb goes on manifold it needs to be pushed? Thanks again for all the tutelage! Kyle
Glad to hear your moving in good,happy direction. Take that Chevy air cleaner & suck only hot air off your Headers. That will help even more.Ford blue is all we do wrote:Okay guys, thanks for all the advice. I was going to got the bell crank route but ran out of time to fab it up. So just made a bracket from old 1V cable mountafter welding the heads of two bolts together and bolting that to the manifold. While this took a little shimming it works well. Also, Installed air/fuel gauge using a cheaper sensor that was recomended off another site. It is a one wire instead of the four wire Jeg's sold me (again no time to run all the wires). It works as advertised after warming up. Shows to be running just one step away from Full Rich, this was in town driving then about 9 miles at 70. Will check mileage tomorrow on 148 mile trip to work an back. Manifold heater works better than great I guess the temperature tranfer abilities of aluminum help this also. Truck has higher vacuum at idle and runs WAAAYYYY better. Last bit of news is I used a air cleaner from a 1995 chebroleta C1500 with a 350 ci. Thanks again, Kyle
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