My daughter and I are building a 66 together and this is my first time doing a Mustang build. I'm very familiar with old chevys and Internationals so I am good with building older cars. I want to start sourcing parts to build a very reliable and dependable daily driver for my daughter. The current 200 I6 that I've acquired came from a running driving 68 but still is unknown to me so I will be rebuilding the engine completely. Suggestions from you all on where to start with upgrading this engine to some modern parts would be very helpful. The car has a C4 trans and I will he upgrading the suspension as well. And GO?
Building a reliable DD
- Thread starter caveblazin
- Start date
ok start by building a solid short block. do not skimp here as this is the foundation of your motor. you dont have to use forged pistons, but you do need a good quality piston, i like TRWs myself. the stock rods can be rebuilt and new ARP rod bolts installed. i would also convert to ARP main studs as well. while there i prefer clevite or federal mougal bearings and sealed power piston rings, moly faced are best, but a good cast iron ring also does well. these days i dont like chrome faced rings.
once the short block is done, then think about the cam. the comp 260h is a good cam, as is the 264/264 claysmith cam on 110 lobe separation angle. these are mild cams that will boost power.
the head is next. i would get a later model large log head and add a two barrel conversion, be it a weber or autolite as both do well. i would also mill the head to get the compression ratio back up to around 9.5:1.
this combination, depending on how you tune it, should net you around 150hp, and about 25mpg.
there are some fine details that other will point out to you.
once the short block is done, then think about the cam. the comp 260h is a good cam, as is the 264/264 claysmith cam on 110 lobe separation angle. these are mild cams that will boost power.
the head is next. i would get a later model large log head and add a two barrel conversion, be it a weber or autolite as both do well. i would also mill the head to get the compression ratio back up to around 9.5:1.
this combination, depending on how you tune it, should net you around 150hp, and about 25mpg.
there are some fine details that other will point out to you.
if it's all ready a good running engine maybe do some tests first before your tear down. Do a compression test, plus install an manual oil pressure and temperature gauge. This will tell you a lot about engines condistion or if it really needs to be rebuilt or not. X2 on everthing rbohm said, plus before you disassemble the short block measure your piston deck height so during your block machining you know how much it will take to go to a zero deck height, also degree the cam. Good luck on your rebuild. 
Since you are using a C-4 trans & i assume with a stock converter, i would highly recommend a 112 L/C if you choose the Clay Smith 264 grind. The idle will still be lumpy, but please stay away from the 110 L/C with that camshaft.
R. Bohm gave you some good info.
Just make sure the machine shop is aware of the type of rings you want to use. Plasa moly require a very slick cylinder wall prep. Where the cast rings will seat on any surface.
Since i recurve distributors that is the second most important choice after the camshaft selection. The distributor can make or break an engines performance & economy.
R. Bohm gave you some good info.
Just make sure the machine shop is aware of the type of rings you want to use. Plasa moly require a very slick cylinder wall prep. Where the cast rings will seat on any surface.
Since i recurve distributors that is the second most important choice after the camshaft selection. The distributor can make or break an engines performance & economy.
of course application is the 1st Q. I ask this esp. due to ur statement abt suspension. Stock is OK 4 DD so I wondered (but this Q applies to every other aspect of yer build as well). Some 'stang DD's R pretty 'sporty'. I'd just advance the total timing to 30* for a DD. The '68 is 'on the other side' of the SCV/LOM system so that's good for upgrades (a DS II ign system, peppier carb…) See "the Performance Handbook" @ vintageinlines.com AND Classic Inlines archive on any Index page of this site. Those R really the two First Stop items for getting you up to speed. 1 free (read while waiting 4 delivery of the Handbook) the other abt 15 or 20 $. And the Schjeldahl Bro.'s handbook gives a staged process for a restomod (members of this site).
"...And GO?…"
not sure the intent here. Perhaps a direct mount (mill the head for bolt-on) 2V autolite/motorcraft or 32/36 weber (38/38? etc as above) & better cam. Just like the frnt breaks, I'd modernize the cam for any build.
Next would B the money/investment Q. Just a ballprk figure or even a non- monetary statement (esp. 4 frnt end or suspension Q you've asked, it can go 'big bucks' just like other units on the system).
No matter - I would do the frnt discs as the ol rigs weren't in modern traffic…
(cheep & reliably done w/prts house system).
Will U upgrade the C4 (good choice BTW)???
Good luck, my 19 yr. old daughter wears army boots'n gets her hands dirty so U 2 enjoy!
Keep talkin, after answ the Qs we can get into details ~
"...And GO?…"
not sure the intent here. Perhaps a direct mount (mill the head for bolt-on) 2V autolite/motorcraft or 32/36 weber (38/38? etc as above) & better cam. Just like the frnt breaks, I'd modernize the cam for any build.
Next would B the money/investment Q. Just a ballprk figure or even a non- monetary statement (esp. 4 frnt end or suspension Q you've asked, it can go 'big bucks' just like other units on the system).
No matter - I would do the frnt discs as the ol rigs weren't in modern traffic…
(cheep & reliably done w/prts house system).
Will U upgrade the C4 (good choice BTW)???
Good luck, my 19 yr. old daughter wears army boots'n gets her hands dirty so U 2 enjoy!
Keep talkin, after answ the Qs we can get into details ~
Some great information y'all, THANKS!! With today's fuels what are my best options on parts that will work well with the ethanol? Again thanks!!
caveblazin":12clxi8z said:
with E10/15 fuel, about all you need to do is eliminate the plastic from the fuel system and run ethanol safe fuel line. you should also install a carb fuel needle designed for alcohol. the nice thing is you can run a little extra timing, about 2-3 degrees initial.
for E85 or straight alcohol, things get a little more complex. in addition to the above items, you want to bump the compression ratio up, enrich the jetting, in fact you want a carb designed to run alcohol.
in either case you want to run a quality fuel filter, perhaps even two of them, and change them regularly as alcohol works as a fuel system cleaner. it will clean out any rust and other debris in the tank and lines.