Head Swap Pointers

Ok. Lifter puller should be arriving some time today. Hopefully I can get moving on extracting those bad boys this weekend.

I replaced the battery in my depth gauge and remeasured piston to deck height. I checked it on both #1 and #2 and came out with 0.020". I'm happy. Consistency is good. Whatever was done for a "rebuild" for the previous owner did not appear to deck the block or swap pistons. Maybe they put in new rings? I dunno.

I also measured the lift on the cam. I measured 0.226" on the intake and 0.231" on the exhaust.
Lift, intake = 0.226 x 1.5 = 0.339" (0.373" with 1.65)
Lift, exhaust = 0.231 x 1.5 = 0.347" (0.381" with 1.65)

I'm wondering if I didn't have the geometry of my gauge to pushrod quite right. The CI specs table lists the stock valve lift at 0.348". I'd say I got it just about perfect for measuring the exhaust. I'll give the intake side a go again here and see what I can get.

I also still need to make a piston stop. The plan is to map the moments on the existing cam prior to installing the new one. A) because it gives me practice and B) because I'd like to have the numbers for comparison sake.

It was said to use a solid lifter for degreeing, that is all I have ever used and ran.

Can a hydraulic lifter be accurate and not bleed down?

Not sure. Would it really bleed at all when it's only fighting the gauge?

Another note. There seems to be a decent amount of buildup in the lifter valleys. Can I just hose em with carb cleaner? Is the some that can safely be used and not pit the bearings?

if it is only fighting the dial indicator, then there should be no problem. however if you are going to run the events at the valve then you will have to use a solid lifter.

I was reading this, trying to draw other peoples insight into how others do the cam degreeing. I used a Compcams degree wheel, but went the designated cheapo route on the pointer; the coat hangar method! I used the hydraulic lifters on the cam to do the timing, though. I just set the indicator on the edge of the lifter, not on the center of the lifter piston. It worked great. I also called Compcams to make sure I was measuring/calculating all of the measurements correctly. They were very helpful. I not only was able to verify the correct lobe angle and lift height, but calculate the valve duration and separation by measuring both the intake and exhaust lifters on #1 cylinder with the head off. My measurements came out very close to the Compcams specs, which can be rather confusing for a novice like myself. I just wanted to reassure myself that the cam was what I ordered as I have power brakes on this Mustang and they need to have a good vacuum to operated properly. Sorry this went on so long, but bottom line - - you can use the hydraulic lifter if you measure on the edge of it.

how do you stay 'on the edge of it'?