Head swap options for 200

What are the exact heads that are compatible with the 200. I'd like to go digging for old used large log intakes... I just don't know where to start. Which years/models? The aluminum heads don't seem to be available anymore. Would a swap to a large log even help much?

Thanks

I'd look for a '78 (D8) vintage, more or less.
Can be found in junkyard Fairmonts and Zephyrs Mustangs and Capris, and in the back yards of fox-body V8 swaps.

There's a C9 head for sale on the forum here too.

Ok that helps. I'm just looking for which years and models I might find one in when I go to a junk yard. Have any of you put them in and what kind of performance improvement did you see

Yes '69 only (just 'stang? the famous "M" head due to the flat log doing the best in the direct mount 2 or 4V, & runners).

'78 - '83 200/3.3 & 250/4.1. (jeez… granada, fairmont…)

Many here use the ford6 performance "Handbook" (avail from Matt at vintageinlines.com, ? $20 ? written by some of our members) and the Classic Inlines Archive available on this forum's Index page (free) click on the stared item w/that name on that page. TRhese sources bring U up 2 speed on mechanics, parts, donners, progressive (afordable step by step) builds and much much more.

have fun, keep talkin...

Yeah anything after '69 is a "large log" head, but the later, either D5 or D8 someone correct me please, D8 for sure and beyond have larger intake valves and hardened seats and a slightly larger log volume iirc, larger still in the 80's ones but they have the hex log that's harder to deal with for 2v mount.

Howdy Bridgemutt and All:

That's a nice blue Pony. It's hard to answer your question about how much a later head will help, all by its self, because to make the most of the upgrade to a later head almost alway includes some additional modifications to the newer head. Proper done, to take advantage of the larger intake valves and added flow capabilities, and all else the same, I'd guess an increase of around 10%. Now, if you were to also add a later DuraSpark II ignition, properly recurved, a better carb, and improved exhaust the increase would increase.

When shopping for a donor vehicle, also look for the complete DuraSpark II ignition system which will include the distributor, Plug wires and spark plugs, coil, module and the wiring harness that links all the pieces together.

My recommend on the head is to first find the head you want, then get it to a quality machine shop for a good rebuild/valve job which will include a mill cut of about .070", depending on what head gasket you use, a three angle valve job with a 30 degree back cut on the intake valves. When the head is ready make the swap. Your down time should only be a day or two to complete the head swap.

Next will come the carb upgrade. How important is a stock appearance to you?

Hope that helps to get you started. Keep us posted on your progress.

Adios, David

I have a 2V Autolite carb currently on my car and working on the upgrade to duraspark, just purchased a re-curved distributor from wsa111. I have a 3 speed transmission with a comp cams P/N 65-236-4, a dual exhaust header from Clifford. I'm also currently working through a backfire issue that i haven't had time to dig into much the last few days. Just looking into more possible upgrades for the future. Someday I'd like to install a T5 and disc brakes to be able to stop this somewhat faster car lol

I do appreciate the helpful input. I'll be purchasing the falcon six book ASAP.

Sounds like you have the basic parts with your cam, headers etc. the direct mount large log head should enhance what you have probably to a fairly noticeable degree. Specially in the low end torque area. Check out late 70 to early 80 Granada, fair mounts, monarchs. Explained in detail in the handbook which you will be glad you obtained.

Again, ck the pre '68 / post '68 SCV/LOM carb/distrib. feedback system due to ur having a stock '66.
U can read up on that from the CI info on-line while awaiting Handbook delivery.

Howdy back Bridgemute:

Which Autolite 2100? How do the spark plugs look? How many miles on your engine? Was it rebuilt when the Comp cam was installed? What's your locale? Other than the back-fire, how does it run now? It's hard to diagnose an issue without complete details and even then it's just a good guess, so keep the details coming.

Adios, David

I have a separate discussion for the backfiring issue
See my other topic. Chad, The 2100 doesn't have an SCV. Not sure which model 2100 I have

I didn't mean to bring the backfiring issue into this discussion. I intended this one to be about performance upgrades.

I'm currently in the process of installing a C9 head from a 250 onto my C8 block. I went with the 1.75/1.5 valves. Also did the direct mount 2bbl. I'm using a Autolite 2100, 1.14 venturi. If memory serves me correctly, this is the 300 cfm version. I had the head shaved 0.070" and my chambers went from 61 cc to 48 cc.

Still in the install process, but I'm curious to hear about your 2100. What size? What head did you have? Did you like the upgrade?

"...this one to be about performance upgrades (not the backfire)…"
excellent, we ( I ) like that.

"...doesn't have a SCV…"
then go to the '77 - (i think) '87 system called DuraSpark II. That distrib. is much more tunable (altho is "set it and forget it") and will make U smile after resting yer foot more heavily on the skinny peddle. Again, "CI Archive" & "handbook" got it all 4 ya...

Howdy Back;

"Not sure which model 2100 I have"
You'll find two identifications on your 2100. On the side of the float bowl, behind the accelerator pump rod is a small, dime sized disk cast onto the float body. That number will tell you the venturi diameter. The other is an application code of numbers and letters stamped into the mounting foot below the venturi size casting. If there is no ID stamping it is either a very early '57 to '59 carb or the stamped code has been removed. IDing the carb will be helpful when you need a rebuild kit.

The 2100s were used on a variety of engine sizes and vehicles, from Falcons to truck engines, and were adapted to applications and locations by tuning the K cluster, jets, and power valve. so it's a good idea to know as much about the one you are using for tuning. Fortunately, 2100s are very forgiving in application and incredibly easy to work on.

Keep it coming.

Adios, David

mini thread jack here:
David,
Would that B a carb choice for off camber use ( fuel starvation possibilities w/off rd applications)?

Back to Chad:

Yes.

I believe the stamp on the carb float body says 1.02

I still have the stock 200 small log head. I have not upgraded yet.

Here's a little article on the 2100s. https://fordsix.com/archive/www.classicinlines.com/AutoliteCarbs.html