Assuming your intake flow capability is in the neighborhood of 175 to 190 cfm (a logical assumption based on your description of the work) at 28" H2O, the camshaft's exhaust events may be a tad too early (LSA a little bit wide). I used your existing intake lobe and position as the baseline, and let the exh events do what it needed to (based on your exhaust system measurments, and assuming a low-mid E/I around 78%). If possible, retarding the cam a little to a 108-110 intake centerline may actually bring more cylinder pressure onboard, picking up bottom end and midrange, and ofcourse a little top end as well with the later intake closing.
The point is, retarding and advancing cams is not always a straight forward application. retarding does not always rock the powerband counterclockwise, adding upper end but taking away low end. Likewise advancing does not always boost low end and take from the high end. It all plays into the motor's needs. The assumption only applies when the valve events are optimized, then the changes work as typically associated with adv and retarding.
In general, I showed the lobe separation needed to be around 108, installed at 107-108 intake centerline. this means the exhaust centerline would come in around 108-109 depending on the exact installation. Your intake CL is fine, but your exhaust centerline is 'early' at 114. By retarding the cam you can end up around with the exh centerline in the 110-112 region. even though the intake will retard too, it shows to possibly be a better total match-up. This will allow a tad more cylinder pressure, without any overlap penalty (intake contamination) on the closing side. the 9.25 should still be plenty too.
If you have an adjustable timing set, AND you are into the front end of the motor one weekend, you might try it out. I am simply throwing that out there as an observation. I am not implying anything is wrong, but that a quick analysis shows a little bit might be left in it. Otherwise keep it where it is and enjoy it till the cows come home, there is nothing lost in that whatsoever.
I loved the post, and pics of the truck. I reverse engineered the set-up and ended up with power and peaks pretty close in the rpms, and with an assumed 15% driveline loss came very close to the chassis dyno results you saw. I also speculate the motor has a little more rpm in it, based on what my valve event calcs show. Valve springs may need to be verified and possibly replaced. With the push in studs, you cant go too high though. 240lbs or so may be about the limit. plus, you cam is broken in already, even better. So you can go on up on the seat load a tad (~100-110lbs or so)
It doesn't run quick at the track, but it gets long stares wherever it goes.
Never in a million years did I think I would have an antique hot rod truck, much less with its own name emblazoned on the front fender and a freakin' six cylinder for power;
but it is a Ford, it is old, and it is definitely one of the funnest vehicles I have driven.