'76 F250 Turbo Build

Been in a bit of a holding pattern recently waiting on some parts to come in, and figuring out what I'm doing next.

I got my order today from DIY Auto Tune, with the MS3X, harnesses, and the IGN1A coils/plugs! The EFI might be the part I'm most worried about, just because I have no experience with tuning or building quality harnesses. I'm to be ordering up a HDT-48-00 crimper for Deutsch connectors since I'm wanting to use those where I can. (as a side note, are electrical/wiring topics allowed here too?)

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What trigger wheel are you going to use?
What did you decide to do for a cam sync signal?
 
pmuller9 said:
What trigger wheel are you going to use?
What did you decide to do for a cam sync signal?
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For cam sync I'm going to try using the sensor I have first, since I already paid for it so might as well. Backup plan is probably the hall effect through the fuel pump plate.

Trigger wheel I'm still undecided, whether I'm doing a wheel on the damper or otherwise. I saw someone who milled a trigger pattern in the flywheel, which I kind of like how out of the way that is, but we'll see. IIRC there's a specific damper that has a 4 bolt pattern for a trigger wheel?
 
pmuller9 said:
The 1996 4.9 damper has a 3 bolt pattern but it is a serpentine belt damper.
www.ebay.com

1996 fits 4.9L 300 Ford E150 E250 E350 Van Harmonic Balancer Crankshaft Pulley | eBay

FORD E250 VAN 96 4.9L (6-300). FORD E350 VAN 96 4.9L (6-300). Note : fits 1996 YEAR MODEL ONLY. FORD F150 PICKUP 96 6-300 (4.9L).
www.ebay.com
Click to expand...

Eh, I suppose I could switch to a serp setup, but I'd prefer not to.

On a somewhat related note, it seems like there were a couple different water pump configurations offered over the years. I'm planning to run an electric fan so I'm not concerned about the fan mount method, rather I'm looking for one with the shortest snout on it. Are they all about the same, or are maybe van pumps shallower?
 
jgavac said:
Eh, I suppose I could switch to a serp setup, but I'd prefer not to.

On a somewhat related note, it seems like there were a couple different water pump configurations offered over the years. I'm planning to run an electric fan so I'm not concerned about the fan mount method, rather I'm looking for one with the shortest snout on it. Are they all about the same, or are maybe van pumps shallower?
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I don't know.
I would post this specific question over on the "240-300 "Big Block" Six Performance" section.
 
I would call the Damper Doctor first to see if they can supply you a "V" belt balancer with a trigger wheel.

DamperDoctor

The #1 source for new and rebuilt harmonic balancers, Dampers for internal combustion engines. vibration dampers rebuilt to OEM specs. replacement harmonic vibration balancers a
damperdoctor.com damperdoctor.com
 
On the subject of the oil pump not clearing the main studs, would there be any negative to making a thin spacer for the pump, just enough to give the clearance? Might mess with the pickup positioning a bit, but the tube should be able to bend enough.
 
jgavac said:
On the subject of the oil pump not clearing the main studs, would there be any negative to making a thin spacer for the pump, just enough to give the clearance? Might mess with the pickup positioning a bit, but the tube should be able to bend enough.
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I made a .060" spacer but still had to notch the pump body.
You can certainly make a thicker spacer so the pump body won't need to be notched, but you might want to use a longer hex shaft to drive the pump.
 
So, I'm at a big swap meet in Portland today, I wasn't really looking but I stumbled across a new (probably rebuilt) Holset HY35W in great shape, for $650. I hadn't done a ton of research into the exact turbo I wanted to use, but I know the Hx35 is common. From what I can tell the HY35W is a newer version. Would it be a good buy?
 
HY35's normally have a 9cm turbine housing compared to the 12cm HX35, which sounds quite small to me for a 300.

I do have a HE351CW though that I planned on using which also has a 9cm housing, but a much better flowing turbine and housing design. Along with its bigger compressor, I was hoping it would be a decent driver and not too high on the backpressure.
 
Nothing super exciting going on partswise, but i did finally get the engine moved over to my rental where I actually live. I've been here since September, but since the garage is unheated and not insulated, I wasn't in a huge hurry to move the engine out from my folks place. It was getting annoying only being able to work on this on weekends, so glad to have it around now.

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In the continuing saga of things not fitting quite right, the thermostat housing I picked up doesn't clear the Aussiespeed valve cover. Might try picking up the later model housing, since it's taller. There's probably a good chance it doesn't clear the cover either, but at least then it's sticking up higher than the lip.

Related, does anyone know if there's a compiled list of all engine bolt diameters and lengths? It'd be nice to be able to order all the new hardware I'll need in one go

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bubba22349 said:
Here are a couple places that I know about, headbolts.com has quite few of the standard type engine fasteners for the 240 / 300 Six and some other related hardware parts too. Here is a link tp it. https://headbolts.com/ford-240-300-inline-6-cylinder-head-bolts.html

alloybottz.com has a Hex head engine dress up kit for the 240 / 300 Stainless Steel bolts, here is the link. https://alloyboltz.com/product/ford-240-300-in-line-6-cylinder-stainless-steel-engine-hex-bolt-kit/

​

Click to expand...

I may have misspoken; I was curious more about an itemized list of bolts so I could order just what I need and not any duplicates, or be able to order flange head or cap screws instead of just Hex bolts.

Good to know about the kits though!
 
Starting to take a look at injectors, and this is another area I haven't dealt with before. Checking out calculators online for flow requirements, I'm getting a mixed bag of results (all using 325 as the target hp, and 85% max duty cycle unless noted);
  • Deatschworks: 31 lb/hr (325 cc/min)
  • Fuel tech (80%): 41 lb/hr (427 cc/min)
  • Fuel Injector clinic (has pressure field, left at default 43.5 psi): 38 lb/hr (402 cc/min)
Assuming I'm in the 30-40 lb/hr range, the only ones listed for a 4.9L on Summit that come close is 24 lb/hr (Accel 150624). If I'm looking at injectors for a different motor that might get the flows I need would I just need to match body style, plug style, impedance, and manifold end diameter? Because I found others for a v8 that have 30, 32, and 36 lb/hr capacities (150130, 150132, and 150136) that match the above dimensions, just have a different seat to seat height.
 
The Brake Specific Fuel Consumption for a turbocharged pump gas engine is between .60 and .65
It is around .50 for a naturally aspirated engine because the N/A engine runs a leaner mixture than a turbocharged engine.

Calculating for turbocharged 325 hp:

325 x .65 = 211.25 lb/hr of fuel total.
Divide by six for 6 cylinders = 35.2.
Divide by .85% for duty cycle = 41.4 lbs/hr for each injector.

Accel injectors are rated at 43.5 PSI.

You can buy individual 44 lb/hr Accel injectors.
Part # 150144
 
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