All Small Six Harmonic Balancer/ Damper 200ci

Need help re-installing the harmonic balancer/damper on a 1966 Ford 200 ci block. Do I need to get a harmonic balancer tool to do so? What are some tips and tricks to installing this part?

-Erik

Yes the Dampner tool is the best and safest way to do the install. However if you could find a bolt long enough and has enough threads or some all thread (in the corect fine threads) togeather with a nut and a thick flat washer you could use that to pull the dampner on. Make sure everthing is clean inside Dampner hub, and crankshaft end, no burs on the key or key way, is free of any dirt / grime or surface rust. Put some engine oil or light grease (white lithium) on the Dampner hub were it contacts the seal lip and also the timing cover seals lip. Best of luck

Should be nothing special to installing the 'balancer'/Pulley with key unless crank snout is scratched or pitted. Can be sanded clean with Emery cloth. Torque spec is considerable at 85-95 ft lbs and clamping FW or other practical method while tightening retainer is recommended. "Back in the day' some would put some rope down the plug hole to 'seize' piston/crank but not sure it's a recommended procedure.

I've not needed to install but tool is recommended procedure. Gentle raps on center with a non-metallic hammer or 2X4 may help it along. If stubborn I would be sure crank is cool/cold and balancer is a lot warmer to encourage it.

Care needs to be taken installing/seating the seal in front cover and a little lube on seal or balancer seal land helps prevent catching seal lip when installing. If re-using the balancer/pulley inspect the seal land for wear. A solution to any wear is to install a 'Speedy Seal" stainless sleeve with some loctite type stuff.

typical vendor appllication:


Isn't inline Ford small block internally balanced and not needing a true 'balancer' but a vibe' dampener ?

aftermarket Dampener on 250

"dampener". Do not damage rubber 'inner webs' bonding the sleave next to crank to outter (surface for belts) edge of it. The 200/3.3 hasa -0- balance FW and very long crank so the dampener needs 2B a great harmonic balancer. powerband's in above pic isa performance component that offers more than the oe. Onea rebuild or for'n upgrade a new dampener should be used. Some do not but check that rubber very well~

Put a dab of RTV on the keyway to prevent an oil leak.
NEVER install a damper with a hammer. It might cause the rubber outer ring to loose its bond.
Always use a tool or bolt with washer to install & torque as mentioned.

press on "inner ring" as safety measure (or both at once as w/many of the above methodologies) not 'outer ring' only.
U Go ford6 team !

chad said:

press on "inner ring" as safety measure (or both at once as w/many of the above methodologies) not 'outer ring' only.
U Go ford6 team !

Click to expand...

Press on the hub only, you don't want to sheer the bond of the outer ring to the hub.

Thank you all. I’m using the harmonic installer kit. Question? How tight and or what is the spacing between the damper and engine ?

The crankshaft bolt and thick washer holding the Dampner on the front of the crankshaft snout is torqued to 85 to 95 Ft. LB's. The Dampner tightens up against the crankshaft timing gear which backs up to the crankshafts face of the front main bearing journal the spacing is automaticly set if you have all the correct parts installed in their proper order. Best of luck

"...tightens up against..."
/or/
stop, when firmly there/butted - no space

If it starts going on stupid hard, make sure that the key has not moved back ...If it moves back it will ride up a ramp acting like a wedge, not good...Make sure when you start that the key is flatly in place.

C bottom few paragraphs