FordSix Performance Forum

I think it's going depend on the ambient air temps were you will be operating it. I tried this on my first Hot Rod build in 1966, a 1927 T bucket Roadster / no fenders or hood. It had a thick three core pressurized radiator that fit into a 27 T radator shell the location was in the SoCal area. I tri...

You can find a picture that shows a restored to factory detailing of an early 170 Falcon engine compartment, it's in the post on correct Ford engine colors by years (see the below link). If you look closely right behind the upper radator hose you will see the special engine stud with the battery's g...

Well I took the car for it's final cruise a couple weeks ago before stripping it down and getting it ready for paint. The engine ran very well. No misses, no sputtering, no coughing or stalling. The transmission on the other hand just seemed sluggish and always in the wrong gear. Once I removed it ...

HI Michal, so what ever happened with your Falcon? It's been a long time since we heard back from you.

Looking for an update on your progress. Did you ever get the old "Rusty Wagon" back on road and everthing working Ok?

Hi notar61, this is actually a very common problem with these Ford sixes! Over years and with people working on them not knowing which parts will work together, then with this lack of knowledge of year differences or info the wrong parts often get used. Like most the time the an early carb is being ...

The 1956 F100 is a huge faveriote of mine! Going back to early 1956 when I got to go with my Dad to the locale Ford dealership to special order his new 56 F100 later on I learned to drive in that 56. Yours is looking really straight great job on the body work, it's going to be a real beauty. I think...

X2 Yes you should have gotten the better 1968 Autolite carb instead (is a non SCV carb) so it can work with your excellent DuraSpark II ignistion system. So can you return that wrong year carb? If not it can be modded to a ported vacuum carb fairly easy. Also there are many ways you can hook up the ...

Ok i think it's about everything here now on block differance's, so if the site members will go over this info and let me know if any additional info needs to be added or the things that may need to be corrected, or rearranged for better clarity too. Then we could also add some more pictures. Thank ...

This info is for the later model Mustangs (Fox Chassis), Mercury Capri, Granda & Monarch six'es On the 200 (3.3L) and 250's (4.1L) engines the colors in later 1968 through to end of 1981 all Ford and Mercury engines were painted the Ford Corporate (Dark) Blue, Duplicolor's 1606 matches this. Som...

This post will cover the Factory Engine Colors for those Restoring a 1960 Comet and the 1961 to 65 Mercury Comets and Metor's Inline Sixes. After 1965 the Mercury engine were painted Blue in 1966 and 1967 was Old Ford Blue, 1968 up Dark Ford Corporate Blue just as all the Ford engines where (see abo...

This post is for those that want to detail their Ford's and Mercury's in the correct factory engine colors that Ford used by the Model years. The detailing that Ford used on the early model engines in late 1959 through the end of 1965 year models is my personal favorite, plus the correct color was a...

You might try some Austrailian parts sources since the Pistons were made for that market.

X2 I doubt you will have any troubles. But to figure this out would need to know the seated intake and exhaust valve measurement to the heads deck surface, the rocker arm ratio, plus the cam specs.

The carb adjustments are the very last step of a good tune up done in this order. 1. Set the Plug gap to .044 or .045 2. Set your timing to 10 to 12 degrees BTDC, or your custom setting. 3. With the engine now warmed up to operating temp and check that the choke is fully open. Set idle mixture to le...

The compression test is decent. Do you have a tach to set the idle mixture and curb idle RPM with? Do you know if your timing chain set is in good condition?

With a Virgin 200 block plus the stock orginal Ford Pistons (1.511 Compression Height) they are usally .019 down the hole. With those KB pistions at 1.530 it should give you a zero deck height. But in my opinion being out the top of the hole .010 won't hurt a thing. With either of the new style head...

Did you ever get that compression test on your engine done? What were the results?

They are a regular cast piston

IN a way it's a bit small since its used on L4 engines that are about half the size of a 300 or 4.9l, but for strictly low speed city driving it could work out ok besides the Carter 1V isn't really all that big eigher. I do think that two or three 5200's might be interesting on a performance street ...

The Holley 5200 is based on the Weber 32 / 36 so it also has a primary bore of 32 MM or roughly 1.260 rounded off in inches, the secondary bore is 36 MM or 1.420 inches rounded off. Most of the Ford versions flow 270 CFM measured at 3" HG, Pri. Venturi measures in at 26 MM secondary is 27MM. Th...

Guy over on the 240/300 site said I might be able to get some real time information on this 2bbl carb. Anyone using one? How is the gas mileage if you stay out of the secondary most of the time? I am currently running a Holley 2300 350cfm that uses .061 jets & 8.5 power valve. My city mileage i...

I think you will be okay here is some of what we can know except for the blocks new deck measurement. With the Auzie Piston the compression height is 1.530 With a stock 250 replacement piston the compression height is 1.500 so .030 shorter so down the hole again HSC Rod lenght 5.990 Stock 250 Rod le...

:bang: well that's a bummer on those new Pistons Mike. With the stock type 250 cast piston you will be down the hole .030 more then the Ausie piston. On the deck cut I doubt normally that he would of took much more than .010 to .020 off, but even if the pistons do end up out the top of the block .01...

Welcome to the Ford Six Forums you in the right place for info and specs we have the largest amount and many knowageable people. Good luck in your 200 quest.

Welcome to the Ford Six site Cash66, that's a really straight Mustang in that condition it shouldn't be very hard to get back on the road again. Good luck on the restoration.

Here's a second one for less that's not been cleaned up and repainted and you can even make an offer on it. You could probally make one like it out of sheat metal fairly easy too. Good luck :thumbup: :nod: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-Ford-Mustang-6-cyl-Accelerator-Gas-Pedal-Linkage-Return-Spring-B...

I got to work on a DC3 airframe during my A & P training, such a great airplane! I didn't get to work on their engines but did get to work on a smaller Radel Version a Pratt and Witney R985 that was a lot of fun too.

The engine will likely run with only the 70 to 90 psi may not be good but you will likely get a somewhat better compression test result after the valve lash is set correctly. The engine compression may also improve with some use to since it was setting so long or it may need to be taken apart and ev...

A big welcome to the Ford Six site the home of the largest amount of tech info on these engines and many very knowageable people, glad you joined us. Good luck on your two Ford six'es.

papawsfalcons wrote:Bubba , $20 to post a pic???

huh it shouldn't cost you anything there are still some free photo posting sites. How thick is your adapter? If it's 1/2 inch or more aluminum that can be easily drilled and tapped for a 1/4 inch NPT pipe fitting

To find the info on posting pictures see below link. Good luck

viewtopic.php?f=47&t=48863

That looks to be an excellent deal for all those items and the head.

Do you happen to have a vacuum gauge on your car to? If so what kind of vacuum readings do you get at steady cruse speeds? Being too fat / rich can make it quite lazy on take offs also so try to dial that in a little better. Yes you may be getting close to the limits of your combo with 3.10 gear and...

Yes for sure all 250's had a PCV when new and there is no good reason not to have one now. Some pictures would be helpful to see what parts you have currently. Good luck

From your pictures your car looks to have the orginal engine still in it. To verify this looking at the right front top corner (just below the head deck) of the engine block there will be a flat boss on all 1960 to 63 engines. That will have either an N stamped in it code for a 144 six or a T code f...

Hi, I have a 65 mustang 200 ci. I have a 1970 head off a maverick grabber 200. I heard that today’s gaskets are thicker than original. I want too gain the extra ccs Would any milling be required, and if so how much. Sincerely :hmmm: To start the 1970 200 Maverick head for the most part is a direct ...

Hi Chris, was just wondering how you doing on your Mustang 200 rebuild project?

Did you get the float level set correctly? If it’s still flooding out after changing the float out, it’s not likely to be a bad fuel pump. Next check the needle and seat for damage or if a piece of trash holding it open. Testing the fuel pressure is a good move. Good luck

Congrats on getting your car running after it’s been setting for 20 years that’s a real accomplishment. Did you rebuild the carb too? If no this is the place to start. Good luck

My father in law recently purchased a Ford 226 H-series and the exhaust manifold is in bad shape, the motor is on an 8N tractor with the funk conversion, I have been able to find a set of headers for it but they will not work due to a loader attachment, does anyone know of any place that may have o...

On your question on the power valves most of the orginal carb's I have rebuilt over the years had a stock 6.5 power valve in them. How much did you detune the Last Loggie, was this to run in a certain bracket or class?

I don't think so as it Shouldn't be all that much to have head resurfaced some more compared to starting from fresh by having the 2V plate installed, valve job, and surfacing. You could take a picture of the sheet and then post it.

Yes your absolutely right! :shock: :rolflmao: I finally can see it clearly now, they reversed the plug connections on Distribitor end of the 8869 wire harness. Most likely since the wire colors in the 8869 harness are Orange and Violet like on Distribitor plug end they should have been matched up to...

congrats that head looks great to me!

:hmmm: So how is the polarity inverted? By the above MSD's supplied wiring diagram! The (DS II) Distribitors Orange wire is Positive + and the Violet wire is Negative -. On the MSD box the Violet wire is Positive + and the Green wire is Negative-. So therefore the MSD Violet (+ wire) connects to the...

:hmmm: Except the wiring isn't going to do anything for your vacuum advance. So before you start cutting and splaceing the wires know that the vacuum advance is only controlled by the engines vacuum Conections and nothing to do with the any of electronic control box or the Distribitors pick up wirin...

What kind of 60 ft times dose the Family Truckster pull with those 2.47 gears? Yes that would be quite the radical change putting in that set of 4.56's next. In your above picture of the last Logghe launching off the line it looks like it's chassis works very well.

Just in case the ones in your driveshaft go bad. Some were not greaseable if yours have the grease jerks and you keep them lubber then you might not need them. Good luck

Welcome to the Ford Six site Brandon, home of the most knowledgeable people and the largest amount of info on the the great 240 / 300 big six'es. Sounds like you have quite the collection of Fords to work on, good luck on all your projects.

Thats a very clean Mustang and well thought out build, Marco.

Search found 8400 matches