FordSix Performance Forum

Before you reinstall the cover check the mating flange to make sure it's true especially around he bolt holes.

A reverse rotation could be used in a marine engine.

Yeah some of those rockers look weird.
Perhaps they can be pushed into alignment?

I went from a 3.08 to a 3.27 and am very satisfied.
So that may be another option to consider.

I was wondering if it might be a pushrod issue.
Did you go from a stock head gasket to a newer thicker style?
Was the head milled?

Stock camshaft?

I run 12 degrees timing with rpms up about 750-800 with my cam 264/274/112.
Plug gaps at .050.

We once had a thread with a link to a mapping site.
I thought it would be a sticky but couldn't find it.

Might need a float level adjustment.

I like that idea, where do you get those tab things? I had my valve cover powder coated and would like to keep it clean. I think the idea with the nylocks is that they will maintain their torque. And with the low torque on those I don't think taking them on and off would be that much of an issue. I ...

Found these at JEGS $12.00
https://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/68820/10002/-1

SweetSix wrote:I'll check TDC again,

Make sure it's on the compression stroke, eh.

link seems to be broken

So you teed into the brake booster line which is manifold vacuum. I'm not seeing numbers there that indicate a vacuum issue. I have a cam in mine and it runs quite well idling with only 10-12 hg Yeah it drops a bit when the brakes are applied. Are the brakes not working, or is it not shifting correc...

Very happy here with a DS2 and a MSD Blaster2 coil.
Quite reliable. 45,000 volts.

What might be interesting is a coil per plug scenario like on the LS engines.

So what are the current vacuum readings?

Google military battery terminal It replaces the original crappy connectors with ring terminals. You use two cables on a dual battery diesel - on from the first battery to the second and one to the starter. But you can run any accessories off of it. The bolt is just a standard 3/8". I got my Cu...

Fordman75 wrote:I've also seen the oil pump pick up tubes with cracked/broken support brackets. They would shake and hit the oil pan causing a knocking sound. I got a couple good engines very cheap because of that!

Had that happen on my 200.

If you haven't already got cables, consider a couple of those military style connectors. https://s15-us2.startpage.com/cgi-bin/serveimage?url=http%3A%2F%2Ft0.gstatic.com%2Fimages%3Fq%3Dtbn%3AANd9GcQVIiaAF2ECaBajhc5h8Kdx5xSYtedBRgdXYI5Gfx2LINpezf2bwA&sp=3a419ca4e080c301e76a4e707ae35467&antica...

What about the Granadas and Monarchs?
They had 250's - did they have rear sumps?

I run a 1976 Ford Fairmont 200ci small cap distributor with a 4 pin GM module mounted on the shock tower. A '76 Fairmont eh? That would be a rare duck. :lol: yeah, '78 wuz 1st 1, but I claim: Granada ('75) as 1st' foxbodied'. The 1st gen Granada was on the Maverick platform from '75-'80. 2nd gen fo...

63falcon4drwagon wrote:I run a 1976 Ford Fairmont 200ci small cap distributor with a 4 pin GM module mounted on the shock tower.

A '76 Fairmont eh? That would be a rare duck.

Don't some tachs have a switch for 4, 6 or 8 cylinders?

Well holy moly information overload X, as usual. :lol: Thanks very much for the input. I did find a solution but didn't post. I determined I have a red gear in there now so it's 21 teeth. The speedo was out about 25% as in it reads 125kmh when traveling @ 100kmh gps. I found a formula that verified ...

What kind of vacuum guage readings are you getting at idle?

Not that I am aware of, but I took my converter to a transmission shop and they were able to tweak it to about 2000rpm.

I need to know the drive gear that would be in this transmission.
Anyone have any idea?

I had the gears swapped out in an 8.8 for 3.27 ratio.
The Fairmont has a stock 1978 C4.
Which speedometer gear should I be looking for?

You have adjustable rockers with hydraulic lifters?

That is a hot cam.
You'd never get enough air\fuel in there to make use of it's range of 2500-6300rpm.
Looks like a race cam. It would be tough to tune to drive around at normal rpms.

I'm running a Clay Smith 264/274/112 with C4 automatic and a ported head.

Wow board is wonky tonight.

That is your fuel filter.
It is feeding into the needle valve, which should be a replacement part in your kit.
You will be replacing that fuel filter anyways, buy a new one.
Is it broken and rotating on itself?
You can use a big pair of pliers to get a grip on that rim on the housing.

Wow, nice work!

I've been hoping someone might come up with something for our little engines. You could look at the designs they have for diesels like the AFE I put on my Cummins. https://www.xtremediesel.com/afe-46-40011-bladerunner-stainless-steel-exhaust-manifold https://www.xtremediesel.com/mm5/graphics/0000000...

Have you made any adjustments to the new carb?
It would need to be set up.
And perhaps the the timing needs to be adjusted too.

Have you got a tach , timing light and a vacuum guage?

Have you got a vacuum guage?

Or perhaps a threaded insert, helicoil style?

I found that the cheap cutting board stuff susceptible to heat and will deform.

If you buy more than you need I would be interested in a small square or two.

You can get small sheets of phenolic on ebay or McMaster Carr.

chad wrote:u don't list transmis in sig or Q.
I'm wondering what a vac leak frm there to carb might do?

He said he puts it in "drive".

Pics of your carbs setup? If you are not running base plates with coolant pass-throughs, or spacers, you could be boiling the fuel in the carbs. He's got an offy tripower so that ain't gonna happen.! A vacuum gauge will help with tuning and adjusting the carb and timing. It might just require a bum...

An electric pump would require a pressure regulator and return line.
And overkill for an engine that needs about 3-5lbs of pressure.

A vacuum leak can also cause a similar surging problem.
Or a bad coil.

Don't forget to change your oil!

I thought an update was in order. My air tool for holding the valve open turned out to be a piece of junk and leaked at the swivel. So I ended up using rope again to hold the valve up. The tool I first used was like the last one in the video and it fell apart and was a piece of junk. So don't buy on...

How are the battery cables?
Who tested the alternator for you?

You need a timing light with an advance dial to check anything over idle.
And if all you're doing is driving around the block it won't charge the battery.

Sounds like you've gone over the carb pretty well.

Put a timing light on it and see if you're getting proper advance.
If not check the distributor springs.

Rope yesterday because I put my air adapter down somewhere and spent too facking much time looking for the damn thing...

chad wrote:do U have it in the right place?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mcSGF3i3cYo

I am using one like the last on in the video but it's sticking.
And oddly enough, in that video he doesn't set that one properly squared up.

Yeah the keepers are stuck in the retainers.
I'll try a good tap or two tomorrow before I try again.

And my head has the viton seals only on the intake valves, but I don't remember why.

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