FordSix Performance Forum

xctasy wrote:
pmuller9 wrote:xctasy

JackFish wrote:Stock cam:

I can't even see my own photos anymore.

Dang photosuckit.

It worked for me!
/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=62869&hilit=3g+swap

Something off a Fairmont/Zephyr might work.

Non AC might be hard to find.

Here is what I have on my Cummins, a definite improvement over stock. The stock manifolds tend to crack. https://s17-us2.startpage.com/cgi-bin/serveimage?url=https%3A%2F%2Fstatic.summitracing.com%2Fglobal%2Fimages%2Fprod%2Flarge%2FAFE-46-40011_OE.jpg&sp=af49ded55947b7953fe7e5ff840fbbeb&antic...

The first photo does not appear, so don't use that account for your forum posts.

I hate photobucket.

Switched to postimage.org

https://postimages.org/about

Simple clean interface, and free.

[quote="gumby23]I traded for mine, and I see one listed on eBay right now for $700 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motor-Engine-3-3L-VIN-X-8th-Digit-6-200-10-1-4-Converter-Fits-79-83-ZEPHYR-6874/383277292236?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 I suspect a fair value would be...

I'll suggest a damaged accelerator pump diaphragm.

I am using a double pulley.
IIRC, I used a washer to shim the alternator a bit for better alignment.

I use postimages.org

I'll consider that when I exhaust my stash of spares.

Indeed.
I swapped in one of a few spares I had and sure enough it worked great.

Too bad about the crapped out one.
I found the receipt and it's only a couple of months off a two-year warranty.
Hardly even drive the thing...

Thanks guys.
I will take it in to the shop.

Having an issue where the starter will only grab momentarily and then disengages.

It is a new starter and the battery is reading a strong 12.7v.

Could this be a solenoid issue?

My phone works but my laptop running Linux and firefox is blocking access.

edit: working now

We had a Merc I/O back in the day and IIRC I think it was a Chevy motor.

I don't know what you need but there are reamers and bushings available on ebay.

yup same here

The part number was very helpful. Turns out I can't find them because they're being discontinued, at least that's what the Rock Auto page says. I got their last one. I saw your post and checked it out, i was able to order two of these without issue even though it said last one. Couldn't pass it up ...

While you're at it, how about a turbo manifold like you can get for a diesel.
I have one of these on my Cummins:

Check the back of the valve cover.
It can drip there and seep down looking like a seal leak.

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/winnipeg/f150-for-sale/1457808407 Description Are you looking for something that will be aesthetically appealing to everyone, while being exceptionally good on fuel with no rust, well keep looking because this isn’t it. If you’re thinking this thing is slow well o...

Before you reinstall the cover check the mating flange to make sure it's true especially around he bolt holes.

A reverse rotation could be used in a marine engine.

Yeah some of those rockers look weird.
Perhaps they can be pushed into alignment?

I went from a 3.08 to a 3.27 and am very satisfied.
So that may be another option to consider.

I was wondering if it might be a pushrod issue.
Did you go from a stock head gasket to a newer thicker style?
Was the head milled?

Stock camshaft?

I run 12 degrees timing with rpms up about 750-800 with my cam 264/274/112.
Plug gaps at .050.

We once had a thread with a link to a mapping site.
I thought it would be a sticky but couldn't find it.

Might need a float level adjustment.

I like that idea, where do you get those tab things? I had my valve cover powder coated and would like to keep it clean. I think the idea with the nylocks is that they will maintain their torque. And with the low torque on those I don't think taking them on and off would be that much of an issue. I ...

Found these at JEGS $12.00
https://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/68820/10002/-1

SweetSix wrote:I'll check TDC again,

Make sure it's on the compression stroke, eh.

link seems to be broken

So you teed into the brake booster line which is manifold vacuum. I'm not seeing numbers there that indicate a vacuum issue. I have a cam in mine and it runs quite well idling with only 10-12 hg Yeah it drops a bit when the brakes are applied. Are the brakes not working, or is it not shifting correc...

Very happy here with a DS2 and a MSD Blaster2 coil.
Quite reliable. 45,000 volts.

What might be interesting is a coil per plug scenario like on the LS engines.

So what are the current vacuum readings?

Google military battery terminal It replaces the original crappy connectors with ring terminals. You use two cables on a dual battery diesel - on from the first battery to the second and one to the starter. But you can run any accessories off of it. The bolt is just a standard 3/8". I got my Cu...

Fordman75 wrote:I've also seen the oil pump pick up tubes with cracked/broken support brackets. They would shake and hit the oil pan causing a knocking sound. I got a couple good engines very cheap because of that!

Had that happen on my 200.

If you haven't already got cables, consider a couple of those military style connectors. https://s15-us2.startpage.com/cgi-bin/serveimage?url=http%3A%2F%2Ft0.gstatic.com%2Fimages%3Fq%3Dtbn%3AANd9GcQVIiaAF2ECaBajhc5h8Kdx5xSYtedBRgdXYI5Gfx2LINpezf2bwA&sp=3a419ca4e080c301e76a4e707ae35467&antica...

What about the Granadas and Monarchs?
They had 250's - did they have rear sumps?

I run a 1976 Ford Fairmont 200ci small cap distributor with a 4 pin GM module mounted on the shock tower. A '76 Fairmont eh? That would be a rare duck. :lol: yeah, '78 wuz 1st 1, but I claim: Granada ('75) as 1st' foxbodied'. The 1st gen Granada was on the Maverick platform from '75-'80. 2nd gen fo...

63falcon4drwagon wrote:I run a 1976 Ford Fairmont 200ci small cap distributor with a 4 pin GM module mounted on the shock tower.

A '76 Fairmont eh? That would be a rare duck.

Don't some tachs have a switch for 4, 6 or 8 cylinders?

Well holy moly information overload X, as usual. :lol: Thanks very much for the input. I did find a solution but didn't post. I determined I have a red gear in there now so it's 21 teeth. The speedo was out about 25% as in it reads 125kmh when traveling @ 100kmh gps. I found a formula that verified ...

What kind of vacuum guage readings are you getting at idle?

Not that I am aware of, but I took my converter to a transmission shop and they were able to tweak it to about 2000rpm.

I need to know the drive gear that would be in this transmission.
Anyone have any idea?

I had the gears swapped out in an 8.8 for 3.27 ratio.
The Fairmont has a stock 1978 C4.
Which speedometer gear should I be looking for?

You have adjustable rockers with hydraulic lifters?

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