FordSix Performance Forum

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Wow board is wonky tonight.

That is your fuel filter.
It is feeding into the needle valve, which should be a replacement part in your kit.
You will be replacing that fuel filter anyways, buy a new one.
Is it broken and rotating on itself?
You can use a big pair of pliers to get a grip on that rim on the housing.

Wow, nice work!

Congrats on the fox body purchase, especially for a first car. Yeah that carb is probably stinky and needs cleaning. I'm in the middle of an 8.8 rear end build for my '78 Fairmont wagon, along with subframe connectors and torque box reinforcements. :D A car your vintage might have a low-mount starte...

I've been hoping someone might come up with something for our little engines. You could look at the designs they have for diesels like the AFE I put on my Cummins. https://www.xtremediesel.com/afe-46-40011-bladerunner-stainless-steel-exhaust-manifold https://www.xtremediesel.com/mm5/graphics/0000000...

Have you made any adjustments to the new carb?
It would need to be set up.
And perhaps the the timing needs to be adjusted too.

Have you got a tach , timing light and a vacuum guage?

I'm not looking for big money on these I'll let them go cheap.
Just want to see them go to wherever they can be used.

Have you got a vacuum guage?

Or perhaps a threaded insert, helicoil style?

https://s20.postimg.cc/lucxzdrmx/20171219_102632.jpg https://s20.postimg.cc/ucme3pqft/20171219_102744.jpg https://s20.postimg.cc/yyiic2495/20171219_103120.jpg I don't know anything about these but Bubba says they are some kind of fancy special zero-lash rockers. 8) So if you want them make an offer...

I found that the cheap cutting board stuff susceptible to heat and will deform.

If you buy more than you need I would be interested in a small square or two.

Sorry to hear about that.

Perhaps remove the link from your signature.

You can get small sheets of phenolic on ebay or McMaster Carr.

chad wrote:u don't list transmis in sig or Q.
I'm wondering what a vac leak frm there to carb might do?

He said he puts it in "drive".

Pics of your carbs setup? If you are not running base plates with coolant pass-throughs, or spacers, you could be boiling the fuel in the carbs. He's got an offy tripower so that ain't gonna happen.! A vacuum gauge will help with tuning and adjusting the carb and timing. It might just require a bum...

An electric pump would require a pressure regulator and return line.
And overkill for an engine that needs about 3-5lbs of pressure.

A vacuum leak can also cause a similar surging problem.
Or a bad coil.

Don't forget to change your oil!

I thought an update was in order. My air tool for holding the valve open turned out to be a piece of junk and leaked at the swivel. So I ended up using rope again to hold the valve up. The tool I first used was like the last one in the video and it fell apart and was a piece of junk. So don't buy on...

How are the battery cables?
Who tested the alternator for you?

You need a timing light with an advance dial to check anything over idle.
And if all you're doing is driving around the block it won't charge the battery.

Sounds like you've gone over the carb pretty well.

Put a timing light on it and see if you're getting proper advance.
If not check the distributor springs.

Rope yesterday because I put my air adapter down somewhere and spent too facking much time looking for the damn thing...

chad wrote:do U have it in the right place?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mcSGF3i3cYo

I am using one like the last on in the video but it's sticking.
And oddly enough, in that video he doesn't set that one properly squared up.

Yeah the keepers are stuck in the retainers.
I'll try a good tap or two tomorrow before I try again.

And my head has the viton seals only on the intake valves, but I don't remember why.

Having a little trouble with the spring compressor.
It just pulls up on the spring and not down off the retainer.
I tried tapping it a bit but didn't want to get carried away.

Excellent thanks

I may have one or more seals blown. Got some oil on startup and whatnot. These are the viton type installed when I had the head rebuilt. I have a few of the old rubber? style and am wondering if it's ok to use these instead of the viton style. I believe the spring seat was machined to accommodate th...

I had a similar problem and it ended up being a battery cable.
Just old and crappy. Not letting enough juice through.

A stuck thermostat can cause problems like that.

Aah, very nice, yah that might work for me.

Wondering if it might be possible to rig on of these up with a cable throttle, as I have a fox-body?

Good luck to everyone in all your future endeavors.

Has no one mentioned cc'ing the chambers to verify and determine the volumes?

There are lots of vids out there, here is one that explains the concept.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7V40ZWNgCo

I used a syringe for measuring the amount of liquid used.

EBay and Rockauto?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/for ... +seal,5800

Disconnect the coil. Remove #1spark plug.
Bump the engine over by hand or with a remote switch while holding a finger over #1hole.
You will feel the air pushing out on the compression stroke.

These guys are good. Did you do a 3 angle valve job or back cutting? Port and polish? What are you using for an ignition system? Yes on valve job but negatory on the polish. I would have the valve pockets ported out though. And DS2 for me on the sparks. oops responded to the wrong post :oops: I see...

I have one you can have.
Pick up in Winnipeg...

Anyone tried these on a fox-body?

Might it be the valve cover?

Dang Chad you posted while I was typing...

I'd go with the float level/needle valve check as suggested.

Stainless steel turbo exhaust manifold like the one I have on my Cummins:

The accelerator pump on there is adjustable via the u-shape bend in the external rod in front.
Squeeze it in for more fuel.
Just scanned the thread and didn't see it mentioned here.

I run a line directly from the spark port to the distributor.
Works fine.

78 granada wrote: didn't anyone ever rev any of the millions of stock engines in these cars? Why wasn't windage an issue?

No, these engines were not designed to rev much past 3500 rpm. Think tractor motor. My I6 diesel redlines above 3000rpm.

Yah the driving thing has worked for me. With just a stuck drum, another trick that worked for me was after putting the car up on jackstands and finding the drum frozen, I put the jack under the drum and jacked the car a little bit up off the stands. Then I bounced on the bumper and whacked it a few...

I'd look for a '78 (D8) vintage, more or less.
Can be found in junkyard Fairmonts and Zephyrs Mustangs and Capris, and in the back yards of fox-body V8 swaps.

drag-200stang wrote:Try google, "printable degree wheel", let us know ,if you have a printer how it goes. mine is down.

Check this one out~!
http://www.blocklayer.com/protractor-printeng.aspx

Customise-able so you can fit it on any size paper.

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