100 MPG

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I know there are a lot of people who think this is impossible and a hoax, but I've spent a considerable amount of time researching the subject and there are hundreds of patents for devices claiming to achieve 100 mpg and more. I stress 'claim'. There are also a number of patents that have been bought up by the U.S. government, major oil companies and auto manufacturers. The patents are available for viewing at the U.S. Patent office web site. I bought a cd that has 900+ files of patents pertaining to improved gas mileage. I want to begin experimenting but I have a lot of unanswered questions. Is there anyone here that might also be interested in the subject? If there are, I could start with a brief run-down of what I've learned.
 
interrested in fuel economy is the biggest reason for driving an inline 6 isnt it? i think we are probably all interrested
 
I think this could become a very interesting post. Experiments!
 
This is what I've pieced together from many different sources, including this web site. Some of it is theory, and some fact. Any, if not all, can be disputed.

Here are several reasons for the major inefficiency of the gasoline engine.

Gasoline, as a liquid, does not ignite. A carburetor, or fuel injection system, atomizes fuel, which is not the same as vaporizing. The carb, or FI, turns the liquid gasoline into tiny droplets ( still a liquid). Thats not to say that none of the gasoline vaporizes. Gasoline is made up of hydrocarbons (Hcs) of varying composition. Some will vaporize at very low temperatures ( I don't know how low, 30 – 40 degrees?). Some as high as 450 degrees. So when the air/fuel mixture is drawn into the cylinder, some is already in the form of a vapor. The compression stroke creates heat which causes more fuel to vaporize. As a percentage, I think the amount of vaporized fuel is still low. When the spark plug fires, it ignites the portion of the mixture that is already vaporized. As the vaporized portion begins to burn, it creates more heat which ignites the slightly heavier hydrocarbons, which creates even more heat, which ignites the slightly heavier HCs, and on and on, until it has all burned, or the exhaust valve opens. Much of the energy available in the fuel is wasted because it burns too late in the combustion cycle. It creates a lot of unnecessary heat. And, the late burning fuel, also known as end-gas, is what makes detonation possible.

Another reason for inefficiency is that in order to complete combustion on time, the ignition timing must be set to occur before top dead center, the amount varying with engine design variations. Combustion beginning before top dead center causes mechanical inefficiency. The piston is still rising in the compression stroke at the point combustion begins, meaning it must fight the rising pressure before it can even reach the power stroke, which is a drain on power.

If the fuel is fully vaporized before it enters the combustion chamber it burns very rapidly. This means the timing does not need to be advanced nearly as much, increasing efficiency, and power. Because it burns rapidly, and completely, it greatly reduces or eliminates the risk of detonation.

This drastic increase in burn efficiency means that the amount of fuel, and air, necessary to produce a given amount of power is greatly reduced. I've also read than when running fully vaporized, you can run a mixture as lean as 20:1.

Thats some of what I've learned. Now for some of my questions, and concerns

How would you measure a mixture as lean as 20:1?

Is there a point where the mixture will become too lean to ignite?

Timing... I'm thinking initial timing might be at zero or just a few degrees before. Total advance? Zero? or very little?

How to determine optimum timing? I'm thinking to modify a distributor by locking out the mechanical advance and using only the vacuum advance. Then make a device to vary the vacuum going to the distributor while driving to permit on-the fly experimentation.


Here's what I'm working on....

Engine build -
390 flat top pistons
zero deck height
stock cam
stock head
FI exhaust manifolds
4 bl intake
1bbl Constant velocity carburetor
Heat exchanger (vaporizer)
DS II distributor
GM module
super coil
water (steam) injection

I'm beginning to wonder if the 390 pistons/zero deck height is necessary
 
going any leaner tan about 15:1 would get you into the realm of too much heat. remembet that the more oxygen the hotter it can burn. also you are looking for efficiency if you go too lean it makes it hard for the plug to fire the charge. the firing event must light a fuel vaper if it just sparks in the air it will ignite nothing so with less fuel in the carge it will take longer for the entire charge to lite therefore to get maximum power you would have to go further before tdc causing you to do the opposite of what you were trying. what raly needs to be done is to find a way to get more btus and the only way I know of is to use a fuel that contains more. if any of this is wrong i appologize im just getting into this theory stuff and have only gotten the point of view on it from a proffesor that teaches from a gm written text book so how accurate can he be right hehehe.
 
the compression stroke doesn't increase heat- it moves the heat from the mixture into the cylinder- your engine's water temp goes up, but the mixture actually loses heat. the increased pressure causes some of the HC's to re-condense into liquids. so don't go crazy with the compression.

ignition timing is a good place to start- you WILL need some advance- good mixture and good spark will cause a flame front that travels downward to meet the piston just as it crosses over TDC. the pressure from combustion is not instant. also, remember that different rod ratios will give peak crank leverage at different crank angles- meaning a short rod will get maximum torque earlier in the power stroke than a long rod. adjust your timing accordingly, and check your results. i think your variable-vacuum tester sounds good, you might even try to scavenge parts out of an old distributor and hook a choke cable up to it- might be easier than a vacuum setup.

you will also want to make sure your EGR is working, and water injection can be a big help, too. lean mixtures cause high temperatures and high NOx- does your state do tailpipe testing? and don't go too low with your thermostat- a nice hot (but not too hot) engine will do better than a cooler one.

and yes, lean misfire is a very real possibility- but as you pointed out, the level of vaporization will affect how lean you can go. there have been engines designed that used waste heat to pre-vaporize the fuel, but i don't know what tradeoffs were made in the way of hot intake air, etc. i've also heard of small soundwave transducers being installed in intake manifolds, which run sound waves together to really get the fuel mixed up- but again, i don't know any of the details.

you're on the right track, and the best way to get information is to do it yourself. unfortunately, the only really accurate way to measure how much fuel you're using is to weigh the fuel tank.
 
also, about 1/3 of the btu's in gasoline go towards heating the cylinders. there have been some big improvements in piston/cylinder/chamber coatings in recent years, so you might look there to get a little more out of your fuel.
 
gasolines combustable mixture range is between 8:1 and 18.5:1 according to my fuel systems teacher. so what you need to do is make it so the engine can run at about 17:1. you will lose pouwer and create long heat ranges so there will be more heat absorbed by the engine. another thing to do would be make the engine so it can handly higher heat ranges so your not throwing away as much energy. i belive the energy is there for higher milage we just need a way to keep it from going out the tailpipe and cooling system.
 
crashbox455":2y3bcqqe said:
the compression stroke doesn't increase heat....

Huh? Reckon how does a diesel engine ignite the fuel sprayed into the cylinder then? :?

If you are intersted in capturing some of that waste heat going out the tailpipe, do a search on compound aircraft engines. They used turbos that were mechanically geared to feed power back to the main piston engine. Very complex and expensive, but it worked. They were superseded by those pesky turbine engines though.
Joe
 
Leaning the mixture increases heat - only to a certain point, then EGT's go back down.

Do a google search for "lean of peak"
 
compound aircraft engines. They used turbos that were mechanically geared to feed power back to the main piston engine. Very complex and expensive, but it worked.

I know some newer trucks use that too, so it does work...
Iirc volvo use it on medium size trucks.

I think this is the "same" thing???:
http://www.cre8tivenergy.com/turbocompound.htm


Or:

V1710TC.jpg
 
Forget the turbo compound idea, they only work when under a load and are a drag at steady cruise.

That engine looks like the Allison V-12 used in a P-38.
If so, that is a turbo charger (crude by todays standards) and not a compound turbine.

One of the bombers - I think B-29 - used three PRT's (power recovery turbines) on each engine. But, they were under a heavy load the whole time while flying.
 
I want to be able to test for CO, CO2, HC, and NOx. Is there an affordable analyzer available?
 
dcook":21eyoiiq said:
Is there an affordable analyzer available?

No. There isn't.
You can find the ones that measure HC only on ebay all the time for $100 or so, but a 4 gas will set you back probably $1000 at least. I sold a Sun 9000 4 gas on ebay a couple years ago, it was broken but I still got $600 for it.
 
Lazy JW":4udsmj1k said:
crashbox455":4udsmj1k said:
the compression stroke doesn't increase heat....

Huh? Reckon how does a diesel engine ignite the fuel sprayed into the cylinder then? :?

Joe

well, i reckon the TEMPERATURE goes up. that's what i reckon, you can reckon it for yourself if you want to.

the HEAT stays constant, but moves from the air to the cylinder wall, due to the increased temperature in the air charge.



Huh?
 
crashbox455":20p0i2gw said:
Lazy JW":20p0i2gw said:
crashbox455":20p0i2gw said:
the compression stroke doesn't increase heat....

Huh? Reckon how does a diesel engine ignite the fuel sprayed into the cylinder then? :?

Joe

well, i reckon the TEMPERATURE goes up. that's what i reckon, you can reckon it for yourself if you want to.

the HEAT stays constant, but moves from the air to the cylinder wall, due to the increased temperature in the air charge.



Huh?

This makes my head hurt. When stuff is burned, HEAT is released. And it's a fact of physics that as a gas is compressed, it heats up. What exactly are you trying to debate?
 
nothing. it came out unintentionally snarky. nevermind.



umm.... huh?
 
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