1965 F100 with 240

alwill923

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I posted this in the 240-300 section because of what I experienced doing my engine mods due to the thread title for the engine. I then added the other subjects as a matter of interest. It was suggested I post it here. I have some good hard knocks suggestions that I went through doing the mods and some mistakes were expensive. I would like to pass on my experiences so someone else does not make the same mistakes. The best way would be to write up everything I did over the past 10 years but it will take me to long especially if no one is interested. Suggestions welcome. The following is the thread I posted.

I have a 1965 truck with 1965 240 and went through a rebuild and upgrade. I installed diamond forged flat top pistons. I cc'd the heads and had just a cleanup cut. I also had the block cut 9 thousands (to increase quench) for a compression ratio of 9.46, everything cc'd even the pistons in the cylinder. I learned the following to go along with this thread:
  • Distributor was a load-o-matic (stock) and will only work with the stock carburetor! Do not use with any other carburetor. I installed a DUI and it works great. It is like a chevy dist with the weights on top and can be adjusted the same for centrifugal advance. I also installed an adjustable vacuum advance. This allowed me to fine tune the distributor (another subject).
  • The bearings for the 1965 240 are different from all others. When buying bearings they say 1966 and up. I found cleveite bearings on Summit that said 1965 but they do not fit correctly. The problem is only the thrust bearing. I know as I purchased a set. The block and crank is not machined for the outside diameter of the thrust flange. I bought my bearings from Egge for this reason. They are King bearings and have the correct thrust bearing. Be careful! I believe this was corrected in the 1966 240.
Just for information I am running an Offenhauser C manifold with an Edelbrock 500 cfm. If you go this way get the Edelbrock carb with the adjustable secondary. It only costs slightly more but I had to adjust the opening of the secondary. I also have the manual choke. I also bought the jet kit that goes for it.

I also installed the efi duel exhaust manifolds. Easy to get at a Pick and pull. I installed an AFR gauge in the bung for the efi oxygen sensor. This allowed me to adjust the jetting of the carb as it was slightly rich.

I also installed the Mazda 5 speed transmission from a 1996 300 truck. Works great with the 5th gear overdrive (another subject). Just so you know if you do this swap the speedometer will not work. I installed all autometer gages again another subject as I do not want to highjack this thread.

I also installed an ididit steering column and I can tell you the pitfalls of this and how to easily solve the problem.

If anyone is interested in any of the other stuff we can start another thread. My experience with all of this can help someone else but they do not have anything to do with the engine and probable should be on another website.
 

pmuller9

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Thank You for posting your project.

What did you use for a camshaft and rocker arms?
Did you convert to screw-in rocker arm studs?
 

alwill923

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Harland sharp rocker arms.
Yes, I converted to screw in rocker arm studs.
The camshaft is another issue! The engine is out of the truck and apart for other reasons (another story)

I wanted a solid roller lifter because I like the sound and just to have something different. Schneider has good low performance solid roller lifter cams that were exactly what I was looking for. So I ordered one in 2017 and never put it in. The lifters require some grinding on the side cover bolt bosses to get them in and they can not be put in with the cam in, well maybe they can but will require the side cover bolt bosses to be ground down. To make this long story short I installed a Lunati solid flat tappet cam. I received the cam with a hydraulic timing card! Called them and was told the timing card was a mistake and the valve lash setting is 0.022. Installed cam and drove truck. Ran good but I thought was maybe noisy. I called Lunati about 6 months ago and spoke to another person and asked for a correct timing card. He emailed me a card where the valve lash was 0.016. Tightened the lash and engine ran quieter. I am now wondering if I have a hydraulic cam. Well a few weeks ago I removed the engine (another story) and took out the Lunati cam, went up in the garage attic and pulled out the Schneider cam and I am in the process of installing it. As it is not installed the story must be continued.
You can see my frustration with the industry. I did not want to install the bronze required distributor gear as after buying the cam and investigating further the bronze gears are sacrificial and wear out. Where does all the brass go? And they do not last long. They are for racing engines that are rebuilt often and bearings are changed therefore the brass particles are not an issue. This is why I chickened out and never installed the cam. Now they have composite distributor gears and I know there are bad reports about them also, but also good ones. Schneider said use a composite gear so I will be trying one. Wish me luck. Will let you know how it works out. I do love the little engine though!

Hot rodding is all about doing something different. That is why we do it. So I guess I should not complain to much. If I did not want these problems I should not do these things. Its a hobby and sometimes they can get expensive and frustrating. What bothers me most is when I have to depend on other people as described above. Is it so hard to get good information? I guess so. Well I don't play golf or have a boat so maybe I am ahead of the game in the long run.

Enough rambling. What else do you want to know? Not so good experience with ididit. Pictures to show the problem. They said o-well try something else that I can sell you.
 

bubba22349

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Yes tell us more about how you solved these problems such as the Ididit column. Back in the day everyone went and got old tilit columns out of the junkyards and rebuilt them to work in the pickups along with the Cad and Lincoln power bench seats thats mostly what I know about seeing. So don’t know much about the ididit columns other than they seem to look nicer in some of the smaller cars.
 

alwill923

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Supporter 2018
Ididit steering column
ordered part # 1170820010 steering column tilt 65-66 for 1/2 ton truck. This part number is still available on their website. ordered rag joint. Installed in truck and was too short. and the slotted flange that attached column was at the max adjustment. They suggested that I install a vibration joint instead of the rag joint. So of course I had to buy this and no credit for the rag joint. Bought the new joint and it was still two short, about 1/2".

On their website they have a collar to attach a column to the under side of the dash board. So I bought this. The only problem was I had to cut the bracket off the column (good thing I only bought the steel finish and not the chrome or polished one). This allowed me to move the column to any position as required to connect the end to the steering box. In removing the bracket I had to be careful not get the column hot as the wires ran through it and to remove them I would have to take the column apart. I cut the bracket off with an air hacksaw, filed smooth and painted. after all was said and done I got it installed and it looks good.

The lesson learned is do not buy the one stated for the truck but buy just a straight column to the right length and the bracket that attaches it to the dash board. This way you can slide the column as required to attach to the steering column for a minor adjustment! See pictures

BTW I just finished making a new steering wheel but no pictures.

There is more ask another question.
 

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bubba22349

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Excellent job on fixing the Tilt column problems thank you for giving the details. I am curious on what you had to do to fit in the Madsa 5 speed Trans? Back when I had my 1965 I had the old NP435 4 speed and low rear axle gears I dreamed of how great it would be to have an over drive that sure could of improved its freeway driving a lot. When I built it in the 1980's there wasn't much of anything you could use except for the Gear Venders bolt on overdrives and they were so expensive back in those days. After I sold the 1965 I bought a 1994 F150 short bed with the 300 and the M5OD Trans its was much more fun to drive on the freeways I could then at least keep up with the traffic too. What are you using for the front suspention is it still the Twin I Beams?
 

alwill923

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Yes it is the twin I beams. I purchased a drop kit from DJM suspension kit number DJM3004-3/4. I thought about changing over to a complete new front end with coil overs etc. but this required cutting the frame and the kits get very expensive. It is not the cost but why do it. The truck is just a run around truck on nice days and a trip to home depot. Truck never sees rain and is garaged. The drop I beams were easy to do (I have a lift in the garage). I do not have any pictures of them. I will take some and post on this thread. They work what else is there, good quality.

the M5OD is a longer story. I will post how I did it on this thread but not now, to be continued. Just a quick summary, ram clutch with ram hydraulic throw out bearing, Wilwood clutch cylinder and pedal to cylinder linkage of my own design (this was a little tricky). I lost the speedometer gear on the transmission as the M5OD did not have any. I installed autometer gages so I had to put a sensor on the drive shaft.

Enough for now. Bubba you seem to be the only one interested. I see you are very dedicated and involved in this forum. I thank you for being interested in my truck.

I solved the problem of centering the steering wheel by making an adjustable tie rod, another story.
Will continue with this thread.
 

BigBlue94

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x2

is this maybe only on the newer versions of this tranny? When I changed my 83 from 4 to 5 spd using a m5od from an 89 the spedo cable connected right up and worked.

2wd models through 91 still had the speedo gear in the tailhousing. In 92 the speedo went electronic and got its signal from the rear diff.
 

alwill923

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Mazda 5 speed install

I got the transmission from a 1996 truck. I guess that is why I lost the speedo gear. I installed autometer gages and I did not need it anyway. This is a topic for another time.

The transmission bolts to the back of my 240 no problem. I installed a ram flywheel, clutch and hydraulic throw-out bearing. As a side note Ram was very good to deal with and there products were excellent. The transmission tunnel required modifications. I went to a pick and pull and got the removable floor plate for a F-150. I cut my floor out over the transmission and installed the floor plate. This required some fitting and welding.
When I got the transmission I got the shift lever but the parts guy said I lost the bolt. I did not know what he was referring to at the time and figured no big deal, a bolt. Well it is a special bolt that holds the shift lever to the transmission. I went back to a pick and pull and looked for a bolt but could not find one on any F-150's. The ranger pickups have a Mazda 5 speed, not the same transmission but the bolt is and there were many of them. Lesson learned get the bolt. If you can not find one from a F-150 get one from a Ranger. Also make sure you get the shift lever. The ranger shift lever also is the same but a different length.

Also make sure you get the yoke for the transmission.

Your will have to have your drive shaft shortened.

Now the hard part the hydraulic clutch. Maybe the clutch and brake pedal from a truck with this transmission can be swapped out, I do not know or if they will fit in a 1965. I am sure that they can be made to fit but I did not do this. I installed a Willwood brake/clutch cylinder (Willwood part number WIL-260-3374, from my Summit receipt) on the firewall. Ram told me what size cylinder to get to work with their hydraulic throw-out bearing. I then made a linkage and brackets to attach the clutch pedal to the Willwood cylinder. This is hard to describe, see pictures. All I know is it works. I have Autocad at work but can be done without it just do a drawing to scale.

To install the transmission I modified the crossmember making it removeable for easy install. I also modified the rear transmission mount. It requires moving The existing support back and modifying for the transmission mount that goes with the Mazda trans. Non of this is difficult but you do need a welder and some miscellaneous pieces of plate for fabrication.

For the boot I just went to summit and picked one that looked good. I did have to fabricate the trim plate to go around boot. I have to admit that I used metric button head screws with nut inserts as I had them. The picture of the dial calipers is adjusting the ram through out bearing for shims per directions.

I can only attach 10 photos so see next thread.
 

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alwill923

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Mazda 5 speed continued
Also found another picture of the ididit steering column bracket

Almost forgot, very important. These transmissions had a problem of leaking oil out of the rubber plugs and running dry. Remove the rubber plugs from the shifter mechanism and install metal freeze plugs in the openings. I had Astro Performance
(Tony Sarvis <tony@astroperformance.com>) do it for me and they updated the forks as they are known to wear. Tony knows all about these transmissions and has parts for them if needed. I have no personal interest in astro performance.
 

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bubba22349

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I was looking into the DJM Kit when I still had my 94 F150 short bed was planing on droping it down they looked like a good solution and still keep a half way decent ride. Excellent fabrication work on the M5OD it's a very nice lnstall that looks and fits great even like it was meant for it. I do think you are right on the later clutch and brake pedals the 1961 to 1966 pedals are very different shape from the other later years of Ford trucks, there were some Hydrolic slave type clutch linkages back on late 1950's Ford trucks in the 1957 to 1960 range I wonder if that clutch pedal and master would work? Thank you very much for all the pictures a details.
 

alwill923

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I just posted some more info in another area on this forum. Unfortunately my posts are all over the place. Just search alwill923. I have some more info that I can pass on. I will take some pictures of my autometer gages and how I did the speedo pickup on the driveshaft. I did add power brakes as you can see from pictures. I still have drums all around. Right now the engine is out, I am installing a roller cam, another learning curve.
 

bubba22349

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All these posts that you made about your 1965 F100 mod's I am sure are going to be real popular, as an example lots of people have asked about doing the 5 speed M5OD and ZF swaps into the older trucks. Info here has been mostly on the ZF's for more heavy duty use but I always though that my 94's M5OD was a very decent Trans to use in the lighter duty applacations. Since my 1994 F150 was stolden back in 2014 I having been trying to figure out how to get ahold of another more Vintage truck to build up for use on a very modest budget. My first plan was for a 1956 F100 (for nostalgia reasons and had severial of them in my younger years) and then swap in a late 1995 1/2 to 1997 Mass Air EFI engine and 5 speed. Trouble is those 1952 to 1956 Feee's are so expensive now to buy in this area, I still look for them but have just about gave up that it can happen right now. Once in awhile one of the 1948 to 1951 F1 to F3 pickups will show up for a low budget price so been thinking of doing one of those instead they are quite crude by today's standards so it would be a lot of work to make a nice driver from mostly a pile of junkyard parts but I think its very doable too. Thank you again for posting all about your 1965 and showing your great workmanship, I will be watching for your other posts too.
 

BigBlue94

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as an example lots of people have asked about doing the 5 speed M5OD and ZF swaps into the older trucks. Info here has been mostly on the ZF's for more heavy duty use but I always though that my 94's M5OD was a very decent Trans to use in the lighter duty applacations.

The M5R2 is a fantastic light duty trans. Great for cruising around town, on the highway, and pulling light loads. Once the shift rail holes are plugged, they are stout enough.

As for the "most are zf5 swaps", the ZF5 and M5R2 from the 87+ f-series are virtually identical in terms of mounting points and external size. You can literally pull one out and swap the other in with ZERO modifications. So pretty much any info found for the ZF will apply to the M5R2. I dont like using the term M5OD, because ford used it to for all the ZF5, M5R2 (fullsize trucks) and the M5R1 (ranger size trucks)
 
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