Build Thread 1966Mustang's '65 Coupe Build

1966Mustang

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Ok, car is on jack stands and level at each end side to side, not front to back. I need to replace the rear frame rail upper sections, trunk floors and rear trunk support because they're rusted out. And the rear taillight panel because... at some point the car was hit on the DS rear and the repair was pretty crappy. The rear bumper was shimmed out with lug nuts... anyway... bad bad bad. Passenger side frame rail looks like swiss cheese.
My plan for restablishing all this with a plumb bob is...
Drop a plumb bob from the front lower control arm mount points, draw a line between the points.
Drop a point from the front leaf spring holes and draw a line between those points... frame side.
Drop a point from the existing rear shackle mount points, draw a line between those.
Establish a centerline from the lower radiator support all the way to the back of the car.
Get the centers of the spring perches off the axle, make sure all the centers are in agreement.

Then make some sort of jig...
Get some square tubing (maybe unistrut) and attach through the front leaf spring mounts on each side past the rear on each side. Attach a cross brace someplace connecting each side and square the unistrut brace up. Add a brace from the unistrut up to the axle snubber plate so it doesn't move. This should stay relative to the framerails. I should be able to establish the heights and mount points from the old to put the new pieces back where they belong.
Kinda like this...

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_23Tu1EcVfgc/T ... 0_2505.JPG
Found here..
http://dougs65mustangrestoration.blogsp ... chive.html

Anyone see any issues with what I have planned?

Thanks!

Perry
 

bubba22349

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Sounds like you have a very good plan, here are few suggestions that maybe of help. The car should also be level front to back as well as side to side you can use the door sill or rocker, and or the bottom of front and rear frame (torque boxes) sections with the car level in two directions then the plumb bob points will be more accurate (vertically plumb too). Next check (and it's very important) that the frame is still square. I do some diagonal measurements of the front frame section (you can use some matching factory mounts or holes), next do the rear section of frame, and last a measurement of the whole frame from a front to rear point. If the car is still square your good to go if not you will need to use a porta power or jack to square it up (within a 1/4 inch is ok less is better yet). If your doors line up nice you could weld in some temp bracing 1 inch square tube works well in an X to help keep the body shell from moving around. Depending on if the rear frame rails have any strength left sometimes it's easier to do one side at a time. You might consider putting in a set of temp or permanent sub frame connectors to help it all stay in position. Good luck on the rebuild. :nod:
 

1966Mustang

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Thanks Bubba. I'll do all that you suggest. For right now it looks like the rear quarters and wheelhousings are staying on, so I'll run bracing the cut stuff. Doors are still on and doesn't look like the gap moved at all when I was putting it on stands.
Good suggestion on the subframe connectors. Thats something I want to do anyway, might as well do that now.

-Perry
 

1966Mustang

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Adding some images so I don't forget where this project is... It's currently buried in my garage... :banghead:



rusty-sus.png
ds-susp.png
sus2.png

sus3.png
 
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DannyG

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Dragging this back from the past, how did that frame rail job go for you ?
Any advice or lessons learned along the way ?
DannyG
 

1966Mustang

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Hello,

I thought this post looked familiar!

I pretty much did what I said I was going to do, (and followed bubba's suggestions) although I'm sure there are better ways to do it. The Jig I made worked pretty well as far as keeping things in relation to the relevant points for the leaf springs. If I HAD to do it over again, I would have gone with the full-length frame rails, which would have lead to a new floor most likely. Also, get the best quality rear lower trunk cross member you can find. The frame rails were actually the easy part, just take your time and measure measure measure as much as you can.

That said, the car sits straight, the trunk is solid and the rear taillight panel is fitted to where it needs to go. I will see if I have any pictures handy of the work while it was happening.

There is still much to be done though. I actually need to weld in that rear taillight panel, finish fitting and welding both sides quarter panel skins and outer wheelhouses.

I'm not working on it as vigorously as I would like - just because. Maybe all of the fordsixers can come pay me a visit and get r done. Like a barn raising! :beer:

- Perry
 

DannyG

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Thanks Perry.
I just leveled the car today, and pulled the springs and rearend.
All the nuts and bolts had neversieze on them, some previous owner must have done work back there. Every bolt came out with no trouble at all. Even the front spring hangar bolts came out by hand after loosening them !
I'll start measuring tomorrow...
DannyG
 

1966Mustang

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The neverseize was a good idea, too bad they didn't use any neverrust! :D I had to sawzall my front bolts.
10690060_10205378185323904_273481890477418460_n.jpg

The rust was *REALLY* Bad... I think this was the good side.
10846081_10205406771318536_1956045245914219639_n.jpg
 

1966Mustang

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I opted to screw in the tailight panel for now to have some adjustability options. Do NOT use self-tapping sheemetal screws. There are 1/8" sheetmetal screws that hold much better, but you have to drill a pilot. Or use Cleco's... like a professional. I use screws...

10897069_10205655817744541_3473345673888022687_n.jpg


11902261_10207423603618083_4559223650182342422_n.jpg

At some point I sectioned in the outer-wheehouse. I only removed what was rusted out of the old part. I think if I removed the whole outer I would be hating life. I didn't want to mess with that welded flange. I don't think that's spot welded but more of a seam weld the whole length. I tried to overlap the 2 pieces and cut them together with a pnuematic body saw. Make sure you have a decent body saw that won't vibrate apart... The electric body saw from HF is total junk... their pneumatic saw is less junky in my experience. EDIT: Get the electric body saw. The Pneumatic will drive you nuts.

sectioned-inwheelhous.png

Right now I have the quarter skin fitted and screwed in a couple places. The wheel arch fits pretty well and I've got the rear corner cap aligned with everything - You need to fit quarter skin to the rear corner cap curve - i.e. don't just jam the quarter skin flange to it's full depth against the taillight flange area. (if you're replacing to that rear flange) - you'll need some adjustment in/out unless you plan on using an 1/8" of filler to match that curve back up with your taillight panel corner caps.

I've been waffling on having to prime/paint those areas that won't be accessible. I just need to go do it.

Thanks,

Perry
 
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ludwig

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Props to you, brother!!! Chip Foose has a dozen guys doing that same thing on one car!
 

1966Mustang

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HA! I'm sure I couldn't fit 12 guys in my garage without encroaching on customary personal space norms. If they could get it done in 1 hour I would just excuse myself and watch with a beer in hand.

Also - DannyG - inspect the frame rails you're installing and improve the welding around the rear bushing mounts if needed. Mine didn't look as good as I thought they should. It is doubtful these things go through any rigorous QA over in the R.O.C. or wherever they're made.

Thanks,

Perry
 

1966Mustang

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This is basically what I built for installing/aligning my rear framerail sections. Seemed like a sound plan at the time.

REAJ_PLT.png
 

bubba22349

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:beer: very nice work Perry, that 1966 Mustang should turn into a great driver! :nod: (y)
 

1966Mustang

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Today's project. Cutting in and tacking the front of the quarter.
2021-01-2414.46.241771190635.jpg

There's a gap at the bottom corner I need to fix... For whatever reason when I cut out the quarter, I cut out the original where it met the rocker.. Don't recall why.
20210124_164544.jpg
 
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1966Mustang

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What it looks like up top, keeping original body lines. Sweged/joggle/flange - little cattywampus at the S-swoosh part, but looks/feels like it's in the same plane. I'll do it straight on the other side.

20210124_154136.jpg


20210124_161816.jpg
 
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bubba22349

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Looking good Perry, replacing the quarters is a big job.
 

1966Mustang

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I think I fit the panel over 3 years ago. It's been a while... I've been welding on it over the past 2 weeks...
 
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