Jim,
Welcome to FSP first.
As David mentioned, the upgrades can seem limited at first. However, there are more now than even a few years ago. Just depends on how much money or work you intend to do.
There are OZ250/2v heads that do have a detachable intake manifold and offer a nice upgrade. You can usually pick on up for around $800-1200 depending on condition. That price should be a complete head. They will match the US 200 and 250 blocks.
If you have some ingenuity, you can modify the 200 block to accept an Aussie Crossflow head as well. If you check the tech articles on fordsix.com, you'll see some notes on how to do this.
If you have some more money, Mike's AL heads are about the best you can do for upgrades. They flow as good if not better than the crossflows and are significantly better than the OZ heads (from Mike's flow numbers anyways). Complete packages can be found at
www.classicinlines.com. Expect to be dropping around $2k for that route.
Cheap power can be had a few different ways, but will require more work and custom items.
1) Turbocharger. Does10s did some dyno tests and found (as expected) that the log head doesn't suffer as more comparative lack of power while under boost. He's hit around 400HP on the log head with a 250 block.
2) Supercharger. MustangGeezer went this route. See above.
3) Offenhauser 3x1V manifold adaptor. This requires modifications to the log, but allows the attachment of 3 1V carbs. This significantly improves the performance of the engine. I've run the Offy set up and the Oz250 set up and can say they both seem about the same. The OZ250 seemed to have more low end torque but the Offy seemed to pull better at high RPMs. It also sounded like a beast was living under the hood. These kits are getting scarce, but still can be found.
And that's before you get into some other performance adders.
1) Electronic ignition. Getting rid of the points was still my favorite single upgrade, over all the others. Instantly made the engine run better, increased mileage, and was able to open the gap of the plugs up.
a) Cheap and Easy: Pertronix I ($50)
b) Not as cheap, but still pretty easy: Duraspark II ($50-250 depending on the route)
c) Expensive, but easy and pretty: Mikes DUI ($400 or so)
2) Camshaft. What really suffers the 200 block is the poor breathing. Consider upgrading the camshaft. While it is possible to do in the car, it is not easy since it actually will require the removal of the radiator to be able to pull the camshaft out. But even a mild cam with more lift seriously wakes up the engine. I'm running a Comp Cams 260H cam. I've run it with a stock engine a 1V carb, with the Offy 3x1, and with the Oz250 head. I can tell you it even wakes up a stock engine.
3) Roller rockers, If you don't want to pull the engine, you can increase valve lift with some 1.6:1 roller rockers. Mike offers those as well. A little more expensive than a camshaft, but easier to swap out.
4) Transmission. I always recommend dropping the C4 if you really want more performance. A 4 speed toploader will feel better. Going with a later T5 overdrive transmission is so nice. It's my 2nd favorite upgrade to the car. However going from C4 to T5 does require a bit of work.
I've never found a carb that doesn't need tuning. Some are more troublefree than others. However, your choices for the 1v carb are limited. If you want troublefree (relatively), I say you can't beat the venerable Autolite 1100. Very little tuning to be done. If you use an adaptor for a 2V carb, I still recommend either an autolite 2100 or the Holley 350. Both are solid, though the holley can require more initial tuning. To put it in perspective though, on my current set up, I have to tune the carb maybe twice a year. Once in the spring usually to get the car running again, and then usually mid summer due to the heat. Takes 5 minutes. Now, I do admit I fiddle with the car more than that but that's just me.
Do consider getting some basic tools. Tuning light (preferably with dial back indicator), tachometer, and a vacuum gauge. You'll need all of these to tune the car.
Welcome! Feel free to ask questions. You'll rarely, if ever, see anyone say "Hey, use the search function" here. One of the friendliest communities I've seen online TBH. Don't be afraid of asking questions.
. Also, I want to thank you for your info David, the Carter YF doesn't look to bad. One thing I was wondering is if I buy an Autolite 1100, or even the Carter YF, when I upgrade the car further, wouldn't I need to upgrade the carb again? What I really should explain is that I am looking at getting some nice performance out of this car. It seems that I will be purchasing this 68 stang, and I do want it to get running ASAP. You guys had some really great feedback, and I need to thank CobraSix because you really gave me a lot of info. Another question I would like to pose is that I may not even purchase the carb right away because I want to swap out the trans for a manual. I was doing some research, and just have a difficult time deciding whether or not to buy a toploader, or a full t-5 kit. I can get the t-5 for about 2,200, but should I go with a toploader instead? Also, from the power upgrades you listed CobraSix, which are the most "reliable" power upgrades. I do not want to race this car, but I do want some mean power on sundays when I drive this baby.
