Hello, I've got a 1980 foxbody mustang wiith a 200ci in it and I'm curious about what smog equipment came on these vehicles and how much it is affecting power. I live in minnesota so I don't have to pass any smog tests. I want to know what benefits there are to either removing or changing the stock equipment. The motor is bone stock and doesn't look very clean due to hoses and wires running all over the place. Thanks for helping me out, I've already learned a lot from you guys.
1980 200 Smog Equipment
- Thread starter GrantD
- Start date
It should have a EGR valve on pass side below carb, a Air Pump on passenger side above the alternator, and I think a 2 way catalytic converter.
I used a 351C fuel pump block off plate, removed the air pump, and the 1/4" thick plate that the air pump bolted to. That big honkin bracket and air pump, IIRC weighed 40 lbs.
If you remove it you will have to switch to a early Mustang I6 alternator bracket which a JY should have or I think The Paddock sells new.
I have kept the catylitic converter on mine.
I used a 351C fuel pump block off plate, removed the air pump, and the 1/4" thick plate that the air pump bolted to. That big honkin bracket and air pump, IIRC weighed 40 lbs.
If you remove it you will have to switch to a early Mustang I6 alternator bracket which a JY should have or I think The Paddock sells new.
I have kept the catylitic converter on mine.
Funky Cricket
Well-known member
i would also replace that egr asap.
yank the air pump as he said, and get any set of headers you can afford, this will clean everything up and free up serveral horse power. Remove the cats if you can, chances are with a good tune, they are nothing more than a waste of horse power.
I can't remember what i did with the bracket or the altanator.. hmmmm...
I had an 80 capri, and that was the frist stuff to go, and as soon as i realized the compressor was bad and AC followed it out to the scrap heap. still miss that car
bump up your timing a bit too.. your compression is fairly low for emissions, but should be able to safely go to 14 deg or so btdc.
yank the air pump as he said, and get any set of headers you can afford, this will clean everything up and free up serveral horse power. Remove the cats if you can, chances are with a good tune, they are nothing more than a waste of horse power.
I can't remember what i did with the bracket or the altanator.. hmmmm...
I had an 80 capri, and that was the frist stuff to go, and as soon as i realized the compressor was bad and AC followed it out to the scrap heap. still miss that car
bump up your timing a bit too.. your compression is fairly low for emissions, but should be able to safely go to 14 deg or so btdc.
When I get a chance I'll go ahead and pull that air pump out of there and the big bracket that holds it. My question is when calling around to the junkyards for the other bracket what year mustang should i ask about, and did they come on vehicles besides the mustang? Where did you find a 351C fuel pump block off plate, and is this threaded or how does it attach. Unfortunately money is pretty tight right now as I'm a college student so headers aren't real possible right now or any exhaust work for that matter.
With the EGR valve is there some way to test if it's working properly or should I just assume that it's bad and replace it?
Unfortunately I'm not able to tinker with my car right now as it's sitting in the garage back home and I'm living in the dorms. I'm just trying to get as much information as I can. Is there anything else that can be removed or modified besides the air pump and the cats?
Thanks a lot so far guys, I appreciate it
With the EGR valve is there some way to test if it's working properly or should I just assume that it's bad and replace it?
Unfortunately I'm not able to tinker with my car right now as it's sitting in the garage back home and I'm living in the dorms. I'm just trying to get as much information as I can. Is there anything else that can be removed or modified besides the air pump and the cats?
Thanks a lot so far guys, I appreciate it
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Anonymous
Guest
GrantD":2nfwkum5 said:
Leave the EGR alone. It only works at cruise speeds and eliminating it will not add power at full throttle.
Also, If you delete the EGR the carb will need a whole new recalibration.
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Anonymous
Guest
matt1967":3sx6r9vy said:
Very easy.
Unbolt the EGR, cut the flange off of it, then flip it 180* and bolt it back on.
Oh yeah, Matt......after you flip it, you can drill and tap that plate for a fogger nozzle, too!
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Anonymous
Guest
GrantD":rityplvb said:
EGR and air pump aren't really related.....but the EGR and the carb are very related to each other.
Air pump can come off and not affect anything.
Although I'm not around my car to take pictures of it, I did happen to have one that has a picture of what I believe to be the EGR valve. I would like confirmation that this is indeed the part that I think it is. I seem to recall messing around with it one other time and noticing that it wasn't really doing anything as the motor revved. It looks to be an easy part to replace. What advantages are there to having a functional egr valve? Also do you see what I mean about having a cluttered engine bay?
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Anonymous
Guest
fb71":2cpnpjlp said:
^ Yes!
GrantD":2cpnpjlp said:
Hoooo boy.........you better get a manual.....
The LAST thing you need to be doing is just blindly and arbitrarily start removing stuff when you have absolutely NO idea what it does.......
When I say messing around with it I don't mean like connect hoses in random places like that I was just pushing on the plunger a little to see if it was seized up and I was just noticing that in the full travel of the plunger it didn't look like the linkage was capable of moving what it was attached to. As for looking at manual's you're probably right, I've got a couple of them back home which is also where my car is, but when looking through some pictures I had around I saw that and thought it might be it. I'm typically very reluctant to actually remove and take apart stuff that i'm not confident about which is why I asked instead of did it. Thank you guys for your responses though, do you know where I can get that 351C block off plate or what year mustang I should look for for the alternater bracket?
I've got a '78 with most of the smog stuff removed, and it runs quite well.
I'd suggest a new exhaust manifold first off, be it a header, or pre-79 stock.
It would appear you may have the type that has the built in cat, one of the worst pieces of crap ever put on a motor, IMHO.
Your egr valve is hanging off a spacer in between the carb and the manifold.
If you go with a stock manifold, the spacer may be required to orient the carb correctly, although you can either block off where the valve goes, or just unplug it from the vacuum system.
I'd suggest a new exhaust manifold first off, be it a header, or pre-79 stock.
It would appear you may have the type that has the built in cat, one of the worst pieces of crap ever put on a motor, IMHO.
Your egr valve is hanging off a spacer in between the carb and the manifold.
If you go with a stock manifold, the spacer may be required to orient the carb correctly, although you can either block off where the valve goes, or just unplug it from the vacuum system.
Actually, your EGR valve may be bolted right onto the manifold.
I was out at the yard a couple of weeks ago and pulled a spacer off a car like yours, now that I recall. I pulled it because it had only a vacuum port. Oh yeah I took the carb too...
Your carb looks to be in great shape though, nice and clean.
I was out at the yard a couple of weeks ago and pulled a spacer off a car like yours, now that I recall. I pulled it because it had only a vacuum port. Oh yeah I took the carb too...
Your carb looks to be in great shape though, nice and clean.
HotRodLarry
Well-known member
That's a nice way to make a EGR block off plate. If you can't find the right year for the 351C, ask around for Mr Gasket part #1517. Same thing, plus it's chrome and includes a gasket.Anyhow, On my '83 200, the smog pump was on the drivers side, right above the power steering pump. The smog pump seized up on me, so I yanked it out. I'm also going with an older style exhaust manifold with a universal converter. If you can't find one here, eBay has pre '70's manifolds for like $100 or so.
8)
When I bought my 80 Stang there was no cap on the vacuum canister for the EGR and the previous owner had cut the EGR tube and apparently used pliers to roll the tube up to try to crimp it. Didnt work.
All I did was remove the EGR valve at that point and install a block off plate.
The carb was original and I never had any problems with it. Ran really really well right up til the head gasket blew.
When I bought my 80 Stang there was no cap on the vacuum canister for the EGR and the previous owner had cut the EGR tube and apparently used pliers to roll the tube up to try to crimp it. Didnt work.
All I did was remove the EGR valve at that point and install a block off plate.
The carb was original and I never had any problems with it. Ran really really well right up til the head gasket blew.
Funky Cricket
Well-known member
i meant just get a replacement. I have seen several that were original and just FUBAR on the inside.
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Anonymous
Guest
GrantD":fdbx7rnn said:
I just noticed your valve cover is gray. My late 81 model engine is blue (100% original) and my early 82 engine is gray
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