200 Carb help

6

68ClassicSix

New member
I found the casting numbers on the block(E1BE-6015-BB) and head(E0BE-6090-BB). The throttle cable and linkages are way off and there are some things on the carb that aren't hooked up, I'm asumming there to do with Smog.

Can anyone sugest some manuals(haynes?) to help me get the carb hooked up correctly. It has a throttle cable installed and i wouldn't mind going back to completely stock if possible.

I will try and get some pictures of the engine and some close-ups of the carb, sometime this week.
 
What year? What carb? You might want to stay with that cable throttle if you plan to add an exhaust header or some other goodies, like a a 2bbl down the road.
 
what carburetor? that block is a 1981 and the head is from 1980, im assuming your car is a 68 because of your username, so the engine is not original. its more than likely that thats not the original carburetor either (smog stuff is a giveaway) so the stock linkage may not have worked with that carburetor. i have an autolite 1100 i could sell you for really cheap, or trade you for the cable throttle (also have original linkage for a 66, dont know if its the same or not). it needs rebuilt before you use it, i have it on my 200 and, while it does run, its leaking.

this is a good book, but i dont think it has any diagrams to help you hook up your carbutetor. http://falconperformance.sundog.net/

you may have a hard time finding a manual if you dont know what car the engine came out of.
 
I believe its a complete motor and trans out of a Fairmont. I'll go outside in a minute to see if i can find out what carb it is.
 
Howdy back ClassicSix and All:

Given the year of casting code on the head and block it is most likely a Holley Model #1946. It was the last carb used on these engines and last before going over to EFI. In its original application it was very choked down with emmission stuff- electronic switches, vacuum switches activated by load, temperature, vacuum and engine speed.

The cable linkage is moderately adjustible in a stock application. Did you get the Fairmont throttle cable and gas pedal in the conversion? What is your goal for your '68? Stock appearing? Resto Mod? reliable driver?

How about some more detailed info?

Adios, David
 
Heres some pictures, sorry there really big.

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CZLN6":mzt4sy62 said:
Howdy back ClassicSix and All:
Given the year of casting code on the head and block it is most likely a Holley Model #1946. It was the last carb used on these engines and last before going over to EFI. In its original application it was very choked down with emmission stuff- electronic switches, vacuum switches activated by load, temperature, vacuum and engine speed.

The cable linkage is moderately adjustible in a stock application. Did you get the Fairmont throttle cable and gas pedal in the conversion? What is your goal for your '68? Stock appearing? Resto Mod? reliable driver?

How about some more detailed info?

Adios, David
Click to expand...

Hi, I would like it to become a relible driver.What kinda information do you need? Its a 1968 Mustang 200 I6 and C5 trans, I believe it out of a Fairmont but didn't get any information from the previous owner. It was kinda a impulse buy, My dad bought has a project and we really didn't inspect it throughly. It looks kinda pieced together but it did run fairly well, before it was parked(it been sitting since March 07).

I borrowed a camera, so if i need to take more pictures let me know.
 
Is that electric choke wire unhooked? It looks like you need some serious cleaning in and out! I'd spray carb cleaner all over the outside, and take the air horn off to inspect and spray the inside. Better yet, don't take the air horn off unless you know how to reassenble that carb. Spray carb cleaner down the throat and any orifice you can reach. Spray lubricating oil (not WD-40) on all linkage contact points. If the gas tank hasn't been drained, or you didn't use a gas stabilizer, drain the tank. If it sat for a long time, I suggest getting a large, see-through gas filter, because you're likely to have a bunch of junk in the gas. And get a good, clean air filter. Luck!
 
Thanks for all the information. Can you help me out on how to get the electric choke working, Run it to the S terminal on the solenoid? Would i be better off buying a Carb more specific to my year and start from there?
 
Howdy back all:

This may be the most complex and difficult one barrel carb ever to tune and to work on. Most have the low speed air screw sealed in an attempt to be tamper proof. Man of the EPA systems were hung at other locations in the engine bay. About the best you could do to reconnect and use this carb would be to buy a Chiltons for a Fairmont and follow the diagrams.

I notice that you engine does not have the distributor/ignition system from an '80-'81 engine. Yours is a small black distributor cap, where your engine should have a large cap Dura Spark II pointless ignition system. After the cleaning outlined by Big Red do a complete assessment of what you do have.

Short of the correct OEM connections, Typically an electric choke needs to be hooked to the ignition switch, so that it is on when the key is on.

The good news is that this generation of the 200 is a great engine. Best head, largest valves, ever for a OEM 200. The bad news is that CR is down to 8:1.

Next question- Do you want to make the most of what you have or are you ready to Swap some parts to improve Daily Driver reliability and smiles?

Adios, David
 
Thanks, so wire the choke to the I on the solenoid? Sorry to be asking probably some very basic questions, but i have no idea on what im doing. I very good at using manuals and such but not good doing the stuff on my own.

I would like some more power but i really dont want to do a lot of machining an tearing the engine down quite yet. Maybe some headers and the basic stuff for now. But I want to just get it running and start cleaning up the wires and engine bay to make look decent before i do anything.
 
Don't wire the choke to the "I" on the solenoid. That only has power while cranking. Go under the dash and wire to the same post as the wire that goes to the "+" of the coil.
 
I ordered the Chilton manual for the Fairmont already and i going to order the chilton for the Musang soon, if those dont have enough information i may get those other manuals.
 
Chilton is no substitute for the shop manual. I paid $17.95 for mine on Ebay. Remember the Shop Manual is specific to a certain year, whereas the Chiltons and Clymers cover 65 to 73. They're often not specific enough for our needs. The manual on CD will be with you for a long time, and you can't spill oil or coffee on the pages. :wink: Just don't spill anything on your PC.
 
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