200ci Stock Head Repair for Broken Threads for Header

[66Comet]

Does anyone believe that this is repairable and at what cost? I was told (with out them seeing it) that they might be able to mount some stock there, drill it and tap it. If anyone knows of a good place close to the detroit area that I could call and send these photos to I would much appreciate it. If it costs too much I'm not interested because I'd rather just buy an upgraded head but if its fairly cheap then I will take the head off and bring it in for repair.

Or better yet if I can find a stock head laying around in someones garage that they don't want anymore?

 

[rocklord]

When I pulled a 250 from a Falcon, I used the front bolt on the exhaust manifold as a mounting point for the hoist chain. Broke it right off; I'd say that's what happened to yours. Had a friend who was a professional welder place a stud on the head and used a nut to hold the exhaust manifold on.

I see no reason you couldn't do that on the back. Just make sure you have the stud aligned properly before welding it.

 

[66Comet]

Reading more it appears there is a large log and small log head available for my 200ci, being the 66 I must have the small log (it sure looks small). Maybe I am better trying to find the 200ci stock large log head for $100? I would assume since it seems like stock parts are pretty cheap for these motors as they are not very popular with the typical performance crowd.

Anyone know where I might be able to acquire a stock large log to fit my motor?

 

[MPGmustang]

google searched----
http://www.google.com/search?q=detroit+ ... 1I7RNRN_en

I know here in phx az a engine exhcange place was able to give me any year I wanted I went with 78 for my 65... and they had more too. but the exhchange was like 150 for an unbuilt head or 250 for a built head...

IF you do get a bigger log head, you'll need the adaptor to make the 1.75 carb hole to your 1.5 inch carb, Classic Inlines has one.

 

[66Comet]

google searched----
http://www.google.com/search?q=detroit+ ... 1I7RNRN_en

I know here in phx az a engine exhcange place was able to give me any year I wanted I went with 78 for my 65... and they had more too. but the exhchange was like 150 for an unbuilt head or 250 for a built head...

IF you do get a bigger log head, you'll need the adaptor to make the 1.75 carb hole to your 1.5 inch carb, Classic Inlines has one.

I will call them tomorrow, I had no idea such a thing existed. For $250 bucks it sounds like a no brainer.

What do I ask for? A ford 200ci head from 1978? I want to make sure I know what exactly I need to ask for.

 

[ludwig]

The large log head is definitely a good idea. Before you throw down 2 1/2 Cs for something, get a little info first. The Falcon Performance Handbook has a list of the heads you want to look for along with their casting codes. You will want the larger log and the 250 head is good too. There is some milling to do and the last few years they had a bunch of smog control bungs that you don't need. You just might be able to find one near you. They came in Grenadas and Monarchs and a couple other models, not just the Falcons and Stangs. The handbook will tell you what to look for.

 

[66Comet]

The large log head is definitely a good idea. Before you throw down 2 1/2 Cs for something, get a little info first. The Falcon Performance Handbook has a list of the heads you want to look for along with their casting codes. You will want the larger log and the 250 head is good too. There is some milling to do and the last few years they had a bunch of smog control bungs that you don't need. You just might be able to find one near you. They came in Grenadas and Monarchs and a couple other models, not just the Falcons and Stangs. The handbook will tell you what to look for.

Milling eh? Thats too bad, I was hoping simple bolt on. Thanks for the heads up, I will wait for my book to arrive (hopefully next week it will). I will definitely consult before I purchase, I would hate to make a big mistake.

 

[anotherhassel]

i too a nut and welded it to the head. It was an oversized nut then I used a nut and boltto bolt the header on.
Remember the head is cast iron. You must get the cast almost glowin to weld it. Good luck.

 

[powerband]

Does anyone believe that this is repairable and at what cost? .. I'd rather just buy an upgraded head /albums/ii165/jahorgos/66%20Comet%20Resize/IMAG0049.jpg[/img]

If head is a later "desirable" head, it may be salvaged. My 250 Tr-Power has a worked head. The broken rear flange was filled / brazed and re-tapped for Header flange.

Here you can see some of the brazing :

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HAve Fun

 

[66Comet]

Well if it was a desirable head then I would have taken it off already to try and get it repaird, sadly its just the old stock head. I think a cheap fix will be employed for now until I can find a cheap built head laying around or if I decide its time to spend the money and upgrade.

 

[ludwig]

If you just want to fire it up, you might try a provisional fix with a good hose clamp and bolt. It looks like you could run the hose clamp around the outlet and crank the bolt down. Then tighten the nut. I'm thinking that the clamp and bolt will seat against the remainder flange to where you can close it with a nut.

 

[66Comet]

If you just want to fire it up, you might try a provisional fix with a good hose clamp and bolt. It looks like you could run the hose clamp around the outlet and crank the bolt down. Then tighten the nut. I'm thinking that the clamp and bolt will seat against the remainder flange to where you can close it with a nut.

I didn't even think about being able to go around that exhaust flange, great idea! This is exactly the kind of cheap fix I need and then I don't have to worry about a head for now. I will give this a try and if it works I'll snap some pictures.

 

[MPGmustang]

I like lugwid's idea too, but I can see you needing a good clamp as they get brittle easily, how I know is I had one on my exhaust and to get it off I had to brake it, once you heat it up it's no longer adjustable so make it tight the first time.

FYI... ususally a built head is alway's milled or surfaced, it's not an extra cost...

 

[bubba22349]

Depending on the amount of time you want to spend you could make a simple bracket from 1/4 or 3/8 steel strap drill a hole in it and mount it to the rear head bolt. You might need one a bit longer or look for one that has treaded top that is used for a bracket. Than heat and bend the other end as needed so you can bolt the header flange tight maybe add some side braces and weld on if want. Could be a cheap fix that would work for long time and you don't even need to pull the head!

 

[66Comet]

Depending on the amount of time you want to spend you could make a simple bracket from 1/4 or 3/8 steel strap drill a hole in it and mount it to the rear head bolt. You might need one a bit longer or look for one that has treaded top that is used for a bracket. Than heat and bend the other end as needed so you can bolt the header flange tight maybe add some side braces and weld on if want. Could be a cheap fix that would work for long time and you don't even need to pull the head!

If I can't get the clamp to work then this will be my next stab at a temporary fix. Thanks for the idea.

 

[bubba22349]

Okay Good luck

 

[anotherhassel]

If you are gonna use this idea dnt heat the steel. That will soften it. Find a local sheet metal shop. They will have a brake that will bend steel that heavy and it should get you close. Good luck.

 

[MPGmustang]

if you can get a clamp on it, why not beef up the clamp and use a u-bolt and strigt stock holding the head of the bolt towards the engine with a few washers and put a nut on away from the engine side... like a stud

 

[66Comet]

if you can get a clamp on it, why not beef up the clamp and use a u-bolt and strigt stock holding the head of the bolt towards the engine with a few washers and put a nut on away from the engine side... like a stud

Nice, I have been greatly concerned that the hoseclamp might not hold up and if I can use a u bolt type that would be perfect and should work with either fastening method. Thanks munch, I think with all of these ideas I'm going to have a solid fix by the end of this weekend.

I will take a picture of my final fix and post it.

 

[steelcurtain13]

Had this problem as well on two holes on our 65. We just ground the top side of the ear flat, placed a large washer there, and ran a bolt and nut. It has been holding for over a year with no leaks. You might have to grind the washer to fit the profile of the ear, but this is a great, easy, cheap fix.