200cid exhaust manifold removal

[196158A]

Any tips on removing this manifold from the head w/o breaking bolts or the head castings at the ends of the head? When installing the replacement manifold ( it uses the flat exhaust pipe gasket) how do I insure the bolts stay tight? I had this issue w/my 144 they would loosen after a year or so and develop a noisy leak.
The 200cid came this morning. The CL seller was VERY accommodating delivering it to me which is abt a 2 1/2 hour drive. And unloaded on to my little HF dolly. Worked swell! Pulled the plugs and all look pretty good sort of the dark copper color and slight shine. No black carbon incrustation. Maybe I got a good runner. Over in next few weeks will be pulling the ancillary accessories and giving the block a good scrub and blue paint.

Tnx for your help so far!
Terry

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Terry:

Good get on the '68 engine. On removing manifold bolts, plan to soak the bolts with some rust-buster for several days before attemting to unbolt. Go slow, with steady pressure when unbolting. Good luck.

The flat gasket type connections are notorious for leaking. Some have tried double gasket, no gasket and copper gasket sealant. While you have a '68 manifold handy compare the early on the the C8xx. You will see a big difference- more material, more and better gusseting and, most of all a fire wall gasket at the head pipe. The '68 exhaust manifold is my favorite.

What is the carb on the '68 engine.

Adios, David

 

[196158A]

Hi David,
Tnx for your rapid response.
Unfortunately my exhaust/header pipe is the original style for the 1961 so it uses the flat gasket and the '68 takes the donut. Also the '68 has a broken stud on the outlet port. Stupid question #86 can you thin out a donut and use the flat gasket together to ment the requirements of both fittings?
On the carb don't know it sez Motorcraft. It does have the clog o matic exhaust heated choke like my old '70 Mavrick had. Here's some pic's.

Terry

 

[chad]

"...soak the bolts with some rust-buster for several days before attemting to unbolt. Go slow, with steady pressure when unbolting. Good luck...."
2X plus some Xs heat (even a lill propane torch can assist). When rotating clockwise 4 removal, going counterclockwise a 1/4 to full turn every thread as well - can help.

These conditions show Y ur bolts cont. to loosen (as complained). U might have never re-tqed over the months/heat cycles. Also the heat/age/cycles kinda 'suck' the bolts in and 'unitize' the prts (nut/exh manifold) to create this "too tight 2 remove" condition. To get this condition U now face (actually a sought after 1) U should tighten after many cycles (4?) w/in the 1st few runs when 1st assembled, @ 1st few wks (if a DD), them possibly out at the month period. Gotta keep ur eyes onem during early use...
There may B a heat tolerant 'never seize' but I have never tried 1. Let's C what the experts can advise ~

 

[bubba22349]

X2 Yes the donut type exhaust gasket gives a much better seal on the head pipes then those flat type gaskets do. I would keep that 68 manafold too. Most good muffler shops could make you a new head pipe section that would fit the 68 manafold for a reasonable price. That carb is a Holley 1940, looks like a nice engine shouldn't be very long before you get your Falcon back on the road. Good luck on your swap.

 

[196158A]

Tnx!
Got the manifold off and it's kind of a mess. The front ear is broken off/missing Looks like someone tried to repair choke pipe (had that little fitting hammered into the manifold) but they drill clean thru so there is a large sheet metal fasten at the bottom of that hole for the choke pipe fitting.
Years ago On the 144 the original manifold was cracked so I ended up finding a replacement that was a good match but the casting is a bit thicker and had to use longer bolts to compensate for the thicker casting. Don't really know what it's original application was but fits and work fine.
I was wondering abt the carb was thinking it was the dreaded 2100 so that's good news. Little bugger has got a bunch of rubber plugs over the vacuum ports, I hope this carb is ok for the distributor. Need to sort the linkage at some point, there must be something missing. Did a little cleaning found that the water pump and the timing cover have been off at sometime in the past. The large freeze plugs look tired and probably replace the one one the back of the head too.

Terry

 

[bubba22349]

Tnx!
Got the manifold off and it's kind of a mess. The front ear is broken off/missing Looks like someone tried to repair choke pipe (had that little fitting hammered into the manifold) but they drill clean thru so there is a large sheet metal fasten at the bottom of that hole for the choke pipe fitting.
Years ago On the 144 the original manifold was cracked so I ended up finding a replacement that was a good match but the casting is a bit thicker and had to use longer bolts to compensate for the thicker casting. Don't really know what it's original application was but fits and work fine.
I was wondering abt the carb was thinking it was the dreaded 2100 so that's good news. Little bugger has got a bunch of rubber plugs over the vacuum ports, I hope this carb is ok for the distributor. Need to sort the linkage at some point, there must be something missing. Did a little cleaning found that the water pump and the timing cover have been off at sometime in the past. The large freeze plugs look tired and probably replace the one one the back of the head too.

Terry

that's too bad about the damage to the 68 exhaust manifold. Thats is a good thing then that you can use the other one you have. The 1968 engine has the duel vacuum advance / retard unit its a good point type Distribitor, with some work the carb might be a match. Yes that's a good idea to replace all those block freeze plugs while the engine out and is so much easier then when it's sitting in the car. The freeze plug in back and front of the heads log usually don't need replacement as there is no water or coolent in there. Now that you have the exhaust off check out the small freeze plugs on side of head under the log too while you have good access. They are about 1 inch diameter these are really hard to do in the car without pulling off the head had one or two start leaking coolant on my 77 Maverick a few years back, big mess. Good luck

 

[196158A]

> They are about 1 inch these are really hard to do in the car without pulling off the head
I know did them on the 144 engine in the '61 and exh manfold off. Made up some new words!

Terry

 

[bubba22349]

I know did them on the 144 engine in the '61 and exh manfold off. Made up some new words!

Terry

Yes I bet you did! :rolflmao:

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Terry and All:

The carb is a Holley #1940. Not good. The #1940s were a generic carb used by FoMoCo as a Service Replacement for Autolite 1100 and others, after Autolite quit. They were a crutch, at best. Your carb has a spark control valve showing in the photo. The means it was intended for a '67 and earlier 200 to be matched with a Load-o-Matic distributor. It will never work well with your '68 distributor. That distributor needs a ported vacuum signal to work as designed.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but I thought you would like to know.

Which exhaust manifold broke on removal?

Adios, David

 

[196158A]

So stupid question #87 is this the stock '68 distributor that doesn't play nice w/the 1940 carb? Pretty sure I know the answer. Would the old 144 distributor be a better choice?
Here's a few pic's of the '68 manifold.View attachment 3

Terry

 

[bubba22349]

Wow that exhaust manifold sure has had some ruff use looks like the center tube was very hot fixing that would be quite a job. Of the two the 68 Distribitor is the much better choice. However the early 144 & 170 engines Load O Matic Distribitors will have a 1/4 inch drive oil pump shaft so the 144 is a no go on fitting it into your new 200 engine that uses the later style 5/16 inch oil pump drive shaft. Of course in a pinch to just get it running until you can find another better suited carb with a ported vaccum source, you can hook up the vaccum advance of the 68 distribtor direct to a manifold vaccum source on the log intake. Good luck

 

[chad]

"... was thinking it was the dreaded 2100..."
I'd B 180* different frm U as I think that's the best 2v carb available 4 these motors (along w/it's mate the Autolite/Motorcraft 2150)...So -
send it my way! I can dispose of it 4 U!