All Small Six 223 Engine opinions

[teggy87]

So I acquired my grandfathers 55 f100 this weekend and at some point my father cracked the head and threw the old one out unfortunately so he put a head from a 58 on there and to his credit it does work but the valve cover doesn't bolt on well so I'm contemplating the idea of replacing the head since it isn't correct or original. The rest of the truck was restored to original, so I don't really want to modify it alot. But... I want an economic solution to more power. I thinking an aluminum head? Maybe a turbo? I've always wanted to turbo a strait 6, though from what I've read, the 223 isn't the best choice, thoughts?

Does anyone have a head for this for sale?

 

[Bill56]

I'd keep the 58 head.
That year was the high point for compression for those engines.
Perhaps look into converting to a 240/300 distributor.
This post would get more attention in the vintage section.

 

[bubba22349]

No aluminum heads being made for them as far as I ever heard about. X2 1957 to 1960 are about the best heads for the most compression, but the 1961 to 1965 heads also can work good. From what you describing it sounds like a newer head than a 1958. The valve cover changed to a bolt on flange type from the two center mounting studs used on the earlier engines up to 1959 I think that the valve cover change was in 1960. Do you see the casting design numbers on the head. Best of luck

 

[teggy87]

My father's memory is routinely faulty so, it could have been a later head. It doesn't have the bolts that go through the valve cover. I don't know where to find these #s but I'd be happy to look. I read somewhere that aluminum heads were made by a company that did aluminum parts for Hudson's I think.

 

[mystere]

If you have a picture of your engine, it might help in identifying which head or series of heads it might be. 64 was the last year of the 223 six. 1961 & 1962 California models of the 223 six also have a factory variation on the valve covers, as they were required to have factory installed PCV Valves to control smog emissions. 1963 and 64 Ford 223 sixes came with PCV Valve setups in all 50 states.

 

[mystere]

One of the things you might consider if your truck got upgraded to the 1956 and later 12 volt system is the Pertronix electronic ignition. It might give it a boost.

 

[bubba22349]

My father's memory is routinely faulty so, it could have been a later head. It doesn't have the bolts that go through the valve cover. I don't know where to find these #s but I'd be happy to look. I read somewhere that aluminum heads were made by a company that did aluminum parts for Hudson's I think.

In the below first three pictures is one of the later model Ford 223 Six Heads these used the bolt down flange for holding the valve cover on. Second picture is one of these later bolt down flange type valve covers. Third picture is were the Casting / Design number is located under the valve cover. In this example it has these Casting / Design numbers C3AE-6090-A so it is about a 1963 year head, to best that I can remember I think that all the 1960 to 1965 223 and 262 six heads had this type of a bolt down valve cover. In the Fourth picture is a 1959 223 these still had one of the early type heads installed these used the two studs in center to bolt down the valve cover and in the last picture is also one of the early Ford 223 Six Head castings. The 215 Six come out in the F series Pick ups on 9/16/1951 & were used until 1954, the 1955 223 Six up to the 1959 year model 223 Sixes would have looked like this type of two bolt center hold down valve cover.

Though I remember the Aluminum Flathead's being made and I also have seen several of them on the Hudson Sixes as well as some for the 1941 to 1951 Ford Flathead sixes. But I don't remember hearing or seeing anything on them being made for the Ford 215, 223, or 262 Over Head Valve Sixes, but it sure would be great if they did make a 12 port head for them. If you have any the the info on them I would sure like to see it.

In the stock Ford 223 castings the 1957 to 1959 are said to have been the factory"s highest Compression Ratio's and Horse Power Ratings the 1960 to 1965 heads are also close within about a 1/2 point. I don't care to use the early 1952 to 1956 215 or 223 heads for anything but for a totally original stock rebuild. The later 1957 up heads will give you a higher compression ratio and much better power and torque. I have not had the chance to CC all the different years of chambers on these heads to see how much they very or if they did it with changes to the pistons compression height. Best of luck

 

[teggy87]

Oh man, thanks for this info! Very much appreciated! So after some questions my old man seems to think it was a 57 he pulled the head from.

I tried to turn it over this weekend and the engine is stuck. It's been sitting since 2006. I've put various oils in the cylinders and removed the plugs but still it won't turn. I think tomorrow I'm going to put it in gear and try to pull the truck and see if the engine will move. Any thoughts?
I'll try to get some pictures. The valve cover looks very similar to the one you have pictured. And I may be pulling the head if I can't get it to free up so I'll take pictures of that.
Also I have a very good friend who has a 3d scanner and the best CNC machine money can buy. He can scan and print anything in steel or aluminum. So I there is interest, I could probably have that head made in aluminum. Though I'm not sure if the tolerances would hold up, it might be more of a science experiment.

 

[Bill56]

I'd give it a bunch of PB Rustblaster in every spark plug hole.
Let it sit to work it's magic for 3 or 4 days, then put it in 3rd and try to rock it forwards and back.
That might get you some movement.
Don't count on it turning all the way as soon as it does move.
Soak, wait, repeat.

 

[teggy87]

So I was itching to see the inside of the engine anyway so after soaking in PB blaster for about a week, I tried to drag it in first gear and it just slid, so I pulled the head and most of it was fine really but the middle 2 cylinders had a bit more surface rust. I hit a cylinder that was mid stroke with a split 2x4 and tried the wrench on the crank and it spun. I sanded down the cylinders with 0000 steel wool. The outside 4 cylinders cleaned up almost immediately, the center 2 took alot more elbow grease. But I think I've just about got it right. I took a shop vac to everything and the cleaned it with paper towels. I intend to take a magnet to the piston rings to get any metal. Rotates by the fan blade now. It seems the piston rings are making a good seal. Won't know till I get the head back on. I'm debating on whether or not to throw the head on, get what I need to make it fire up or if I should get a new head gasket, clean the head ect. It's steel so I think it will be fine honestly. I want to drive this thing already

 

[Bill56]

Glad you got it to move.
After you get it cleaned up add more PB, or ATF or Marvel Mystery oil to each cylinder to soak in behind the rings and hand turn it some more.
You don't want grunge and debris in the ring grooves to keep the rings from moving enough to follow the taper of the bores.

 

[teggy87]

Ok so I got quoted 200+ to have the head cleaned and valves done, is that reasonable?
Also when I pulled the head, these little oil tubes are in there and I've bent them, they are probably usable still but I appear to be missing a sleeve like part on one of the tubes and idk if it fell into the engine or if it wasn't there or what, how hard are these to replace?

 

[bubba22349]

The picture is very dark and hard to see. Are you talking about the the Rocker Arm Push Rods sticking up on the right side of the picture? If they are bent you will need to get new ones. You can roll the on a flat surface metal or glass to see if they are bent or not. 200 sounds reasonable are they going to magnaflux it to check for cracks and do a light surface cut to true up the the gasket surface too? Good luck

 

[teggy87]

The picture is very dark and hard to see. Are you talking about the the Rocker Arm Push Rods sticking up on the right side of the picture? If they are bent you will need to get new ones. You can roll the on a flat surface metal or glass to see if they are bent or not. 200 sounds reasonable are they going to magnaflux it to check for cracks and do a light surface cut to true up the the gasket surface too? Good luck

The tubes coming out of the bottom of the head, there are 2, they run to the top and oil the valves I assume. About 10" come out of the bottom of the head

 

[bubba22349]

Do you have a picture of them? They don't sound like a stock Ford part to me. There were some aftermarket rocker arm oiling kits made for these six'es as well as the Y Block Ford V8's back in those days to keep the rockers oiled. Did you remove the rocker arm assembly off the top of the head?

 

[teggy87]

Do you have a picture of them? They don't sound like a stock Ford part to me. There were some aftermarket rocker arm oiling kits made for these six'es as well as the Y Block Ford V8's back in those days to keep the rockers oiled. Did you remove the rocker arm assembly off the top of the head? Did you find the heads casting / design number on your head?

Posted pictures of all of it

 

[bubba22349]

Wow I guess I missed the second group of pictures somehow! I have never seen that type of set up before but yes it's probably one of the aftermarket oiling system for the rocker arms though don't know how it would build much if any oil pressure that way. If you wanted to reuse it you probably can straighten up the tubes enough so they will fit back down into the blocks oil galleys. The rocker arm assembly needs a good cleaning so they will get oil in the rocker shaft and be able to oil all the rocker arms. Best of luck

 

[manglass]

As far as I know, those tubes are not OEM Ford. A closer look at the picture confirms that in my mind. These engines were built before the acceptance of detergent oil, lots of them were run on non-detergent and plugged oil galleries were the result. The aftermarket manufacturers built all types of top end oiling kits to correct lack of flow to the rocker arms. I think that's what you have there.

Lou Manglass

 

[Bill56]

Those kits were a band aid that helped with a problem that should no longer exist.
Once the passages are open, detergent oil should keep it flowing.
I imagine most 223s still around have been rebuilt at least once since the introduction of detergent oil.

 

[bubba22349]

X3 yes those old non- detergent oils were famous for plugging up all the top end oil passages and rocker arm shafts. This also caused a lack of oiling to the rocker arm shafts and rocker arm bushings causeing them to wear out faster. When your cleaning up all those parts check them for excessive wear (this happens on the bottom side of the rocker shaft) the extra clearance makes for lots more noise in the valve train. Rebuilt rocker assemblies or new shafts to repair them are available the rocker arm bushings are not so easy to find though. Good luck.