2nd request - anybody out there?

mustangsilly

Well-known member
Since no one responded to my earlier question, I'll ask again.

I installed a JD roller set and am now assembling the engine. When I installed the oil slinger over the crank and tightened down the balancer and turned the crank by hand, the oil slinger catches the chain links in two places and makes a scary popping noise.

Has anyone else had this problem? Is the JD crank gear compatible with the oil slinger, or is some kind of spacer required to keep the slinger off the chain? I don't want to leave it off as I assume it serves some purpose.

Thanks for your (anyone's) help.
 
I'm not so sure - from memory, Harry (60s Refugee) experienced identical issues recently.
 
So "60's refugee" says to flatten the slinger a little and change the face angle. Redburd says to turn it around. From the witness marks made by the balancer it looks like the convex side goes toward the block, which means I had it in correctly the first time. However, I'm hesitant to start banging on it unless I know which way to install it. Does the convex side go in toward the gear or out toward the t/c cover? Thanks.
 
There is always the ever popular "don't use it" approach.

Later engines did not come with an oil slinger, presumably as seal technology improved.
 
Those of us with simple minds just look in the Ford manual. :wink:

slinger.jpg
 
Your choice, as Ian said, later seal technology took care of the problem.

On the last 4 engines i built the slinger was not used.

I have had no problems with front seal leakage without the slinger.

I believe the extra oil on the newer seals makes them last longer & as i said i have had no leakage or even seepage from felpro front seals.Bill
 
Yes, the slinger rubbed my JD chain. It was a simple fix.

Lay the slinger on a round object that is large enough to support the entire outer edge of the slinger (I used a paint can lid), but hollow enough to allow the center to be suspended. Put the slinger onto this round object with the slinger facing you with the hub depression down. Take a large socket (I used a 34mm) or anything that will fit into the center hub depression, and insert it into the depression. Now, take a big hammer and strike the socket such that it will drive the center of the slinger down. Try to get the center driven about 1/8" down from stock. The metal is quite soft and easily bends. Check it for fit. On mine one edge went down a bit further than the other allowing one part to of the outer edge rub the chain. So, I put it back in the lid, hit it again such that the hub was the same all around.

This worked great for me, and after a month of driving the front seal is still dry as a bone! Why take a chance on new seal technology when the solution is so easy!

Harry
 
OK, then. Well, since I have a new seal in the T.C. and a new repair sleeve on the balancer shaft, I think I'll leave the darn thing off. I'll let you guys know if it comes back to bite me.
 
You may be OK. If you use synthetic oil though, watch it close. I love the stuff, but it will get through seals and places other oil won't.

Yes, we'd like to hear how it works.

Harry
 
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