2V Head Bolts

[Ronbo]

Do I re-use the ARB studs or go with new 200/250 head bolts? The last go round with ARP studs I had sealing issues but...I cant isolate the leaking to one problem. Seeped coolant and low compression. I used sealant on passenger side #1 head bolt. For the folks who did the swap which one did you use? Thanks.....been a long strange trip, son will be 16 soon and I want him to have the Ford experience.

 

[rbohm]

8) you can reuse the ARP studs with no issues, they were in fact designed for that. these sealing issues you had, were they gasket related, or did coolant leak up through the threads on the studs? if gasket related, the first thing you want to check is do the bolts go down far enough to properly compress the head gasket without the nut binding on the end of the threads of the stud. if you have coolant leaking up the threads, then put some sealer on the threads that go in the block to prevent that.

 

[Ronbo]

Thanks for the reply. As far as coolant seepage goes I "thought" there was only one hole I had to worry about? I'll check the others tonight. I'm not sure if the studs are too long or not but that is something I'm looking at. Can I double washer them? I read somewhere :roll: that the washers are matched to the studs i.e. you cant go to the local hardware store and buy a set.

 

[Asa]

I don't know about matched, but I could definitely see how you would need to get hardened washers, and not just some off the shelf Grade 5 stuff.

 

[rbohm]

8) evan is right, the washers are not so much matched as they are hardened to grade eight standards. you can double up the washers though, better to get much thicker ones if you can.

 

[CNC-Dude]

Run a tap through each of your head bolt holes to clean out the junk in them plus to ensure you can get the most thread depth engagement of the studs. Then you clean the bolt holes out with some carb cleaner or acetone so the sealer will have a good clean surface to perform at its best. And yes, on any bolt or stud that goes into the water jacket, some form of thread sealer is recommended, whether its a silicon style or something else you prefer. That should solve that issue.

 

[chad]

"...whether its a silicon style or something else you prefer..."
with hi temp capacity (only 3 or 400*).

"...with some carb cleaner or acetone so the sealer will have a good clean surface to perform at its best...."
& clean that out (compressed air).

 

[rbohm]

"...whether its a silicon style or something else you prefer..."
with hi temp capacity (only 3 or 400*).

good point. RTV copper does work nicely in higher heat applications

"...with some carb cleaner or acetone so the sealer will have a good clean surface to perform at its best...."
& clean that out (compressed air).

another good point, but i dont think you would have to go that far if you use a quick drying formula spray cleaner.

 

[Gene Fiore]

Also don't be afraid to re-torque the head after a few heat cycles with the new head gasket. I am running arp head studs and had some coolant leakage on the driver side of the block. Once I re-torqued the head the leaking stopped.

 

[rbohm]

Also don't be afraid to re-torque the head after a few heat cycles with the new head gasket. I am running arp head studs and had some coolant leakage on the driver side of the block. Once I re-torqued the head the leaking stopped.

good advice even with permatorque head gaskets.