300 torque build 85 Bronco

pmuller9

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FTF Thanks for sharing that info. It's good to know.
Would knife edging the counter weights be worth while for a 300 six crank that is used primarily for racing?
 

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER

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pmuller9":25ghktw5 said:
FTF Thanks for sharing that info. It's good to know.
Would knife edging the counter weights be worth while for a 300 six crank that is used primarily for racing?

Absolutely

Its part of my race crank prep.
 

BigBlue94

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Thanks guys.

I ordered the Schneider 140H cam, their standard style lifters, and their break-in lube, as well as a zddp additive for after the rings seat.
 

pmuller9

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BigBlue94":2p1zps8l said:
I ordered the Schneider 140H cam, their standard style lifters, and their break-in lube, as well as a zddp additive for after the rings seat.
Nice (y)
Use a good break-in oil like Driven (Joe Gibbs) BR30.

Any progress on which block to use?
Have you started working on the head?
 

BigBlue94

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No progress from the machine shop. I took it in on the 9th, and he said about 3 weeks before he could even look at it. He is also gonna do the head work.

I don't care much for Joe Gibbs, since he let Kenseth go instead of that Busch clown, but I'll try his oil haha.
 

BigBlue94

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Still no engine news, but Jet Hot received my rusty crusty headers of unknown origin (possibly clifford) today through fedex. I'm getting the 2000° off-road coating in cast iron color on the outside.
 

BigBlue94

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Still no news on the engine. I need to make a phone call and see what's up.

Got my headers back a while ago. Here's where they started.



And after the JetHot cast iron color coating.





I also did a bit of work on my Clifford intake. Previously it had this huge 7-nipple vacuum tree on it, with only one line going to it. So I swapped it for a single 90° brass fitting. I then needed a port for testing with a vacuum gauge, so I drilled and tapped a second hole for that.

Mounted to the drill press table


Using a #4 center drill


After drilling to size, I chucked up my npt tap, and used the spindle to keep the tap straight. I did not tap under power.





Then I set about painting it.
All masked off



Primed with VHT flameproof gray



Painted with duplicolor engine enamel, in New Ford Gray. Valve cover and side cover will also be this gray color.

 

bubba22349

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:beer: Those are a good looking set of Headers and Intake! (y) :nod:
 

F-250 Restorer

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I have the same intake. I was going to weld up a 90* hose bib for the coolant, but like the ones you have. Where did you find them?

I assume those are Clifford headers. They are nice, however, they will seal in your starter. I switched to a much smaller efi starter to avoid that problem. Also, after using a set of hedman headers for many years, I got tired of the rattles and lack of room. I decided on a set of Clifford shorties, into a single 3" tube for a bit, and then reduce it at the rear with a 2.5" tailpipe.

The heat from the header, even with a shield, prevented using several types of carbs. If you use the header you might want to consider a cool air intake for mpg sake. Good luck.

*P.S.: Are those 1 5/8" tubes on the headers? They look 1.5", but it could of course be the photo.
 

BigBlue94

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F-250 Restorer":3xbfq581 said:
I have the same intake. I was going to weld up a 90* hose bib for the coolant, but like the ones you have. Where did you find them?

I assume those are Clifford headers. They are nice, however, they will seal in your starter. I switched to a much smaller efi starter to avoid that problem. Also, after using a set of hedman headers for many years, I got tired of the rattles and lack of room. I decided on a set of Clifford shorties, into a single 3" tube for a bit, and then reduce it at the rear with a 2.5" tailpipe.

The heat from the header, even with a shield, prevented using several types of carbs. If you use the header you might want to consider a cool air intake for mpg sake. Good luck.

*P.S.: Are those 1 5/8" tubes on the headers? They look 1.5", but it could of course be the photo.

Headers are indeed 1.625 tubes. I just built exhaust for them, so they are staying. I have a quickfuel 450 slayer, virtually nib. It's been a few months since I tore it down, so I can't remember how the starter access was.

I'm a little confused as to what you're really asking about the water jacket fittings. They came on the engine when I bought the bronco and I assumed they came with the intake. What are you trying to weld?!? I'll get some closeups of the fittings tonight, as they are rather different from what I've seen. I'm actually kinda ticked off that I didn't pony up for the Jet hot on the manifold. :banghead:
 

BigBlue94

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Also, by cool air intake, do you mean like a standard snorkel type air cleaner?

Currently it's got a Stef's 14" high flow "bubble" lid and base, with a 4" tall R2C dirt track reusable paper filter, and a 1.5" spacer under the cleaner for clearance.
 

BigBlue94

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Got a bit of news today. My head was magged and passed with flying colors. Block is gonna get gauged today to see how much he needs to bore it, or if I need a new block since its already .040 over.
 

BigBlue94

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Got a voicemail while out in the Rockies, my block cleaned up fully at 4.058, then honed to 4.060.

Cam is a schneider 140h, with an intake closing at 70° abdc.

I'm considering this piston:
https://www.uempistons.com/index.php?main_page=product_piston_info&cPath=3_4_24&products_id=3266


Specifications
Bore: 4.000 Rod Length: 5.956
Pin Diameter: 0.9122
Stroke: 3.500 Comp. Ht: 1.774
Top Land: 0.259
Minimum Clearance
Click Here To View
SPECIAL CLEARANCE REQUIREMENTS
OE Deck Height: 9.500
Weight Piston/Pin: 557/143
Head Type Step Dish
Effective Head Volume 15cc
Ext. Valve Depth 0.000 Ext. Valve Dia. 0.000
Int. Relief Depth 0.000 Int. Relief Dia.

With the block shaved to .005 above TDC, and 72cc chambers, it'll give me an sCR of 9.733 and a dCR of 7.493. With 78cc chambers it'll be a lil less aggressive at 9.223 and 7.114. I like the step design for quench purposes.

I was chatting with AbandonedBronco about the wrist pin locations. Factory is offset, and he used offset 351 pistons. The ones I'm considering are centered pin. Any disadvantage to that on my 4.060 block?
 

pmuller9

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Your 1985 rods have a .975" pin hole.
Those pistons have a .912" pin.

Are you planning to bush the rods?
 

BigBlue94

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Yes that's the plan. Old 300 rods weren't common here last time I checked around. The ones I found on eBay at the time were not complete sets and or very expensive. Is there a problem with bushing the rods, or were you just pointing it out?

I have a couple others that have just flat tops with valve reliefs that are a few cc's less 'dished'. They are still a 912 pin. I'd rather keep the lighter 351 pistons than FE pistons at .010 over.
 

pmuller9

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No problem with bushed rods since the KB 379 pistons will work with both press fit or floating piston pins.

To answer about off set piston pins:
If a set of V8 pistons have off set pins, only 4 of the 8 pistons can be installed in a straight six with the correct orientation. The other 4 (of which you only need 2) will be backwards.

The KB 379 with the centered pin allows any six of a set of 8 pistons to work in the straight six.
Most of the time it is cheaper to buy a set of 8 pistons than to buy six separate pistons.
 

BigBlue94

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Alright, so I ordered most of my stuff last night.

Set of 8 pistons, linked above. $400
Rings, $60 KB moly top ring
Harland Sharp 1.6 roller rockers $300
Fel-pro gaskets, including the 1024 head gasket and permadry VC and oil pan gaskets. $125
DUI HEI distributor in black $370
DUI Livewires in black $90
Melling standard oil pump and drive shaft $50
ARP head studs, connecting rod bolts, and main cap studs. $200
New harmonic balancer $70

Totaled up to about $1600

Should be here by Friday, with the exception of the pistons, which are drop shipped. I have yet to order the remflex gasket for the manifold and headers.
 

BigBlue94

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These beauties just came today...

KB379-060

351w, .060 over. 15cc dish and a small step hopefully to aid in quench. Decking the block to .005 ATDC will push the step up into the gasket (.039 compressed) and chamber .047", meaning .008" into the actual chamber. The step itself is .052" proud of the top piston surface. The dish is .063" deep, from that same surface. The step face is .115" above the dish bottom. Measurements taken with a depth mic.



 

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER

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What is the purpose of the large relief below the top ring land? That would give emissions engineers apoplexy.
 
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