300 update

nitrousnick

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Time for a freshen up, and try a new intake manifold..... sorry about the pics, dont know how to fix it. just glad i figured out how to post them. :D
 

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pmuller9

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Very nice looking engine.
Gotta love the home made air cleaner (y)
What harmonic balancer are you using?
 

nitrousnick

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Small block ford fluid damper, netural balanced with 3 bolt pulley
 

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THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER

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Your pictures show a lot of attention to detail, which signals to me a successful build. Is the air cleaner hand fabbed from sheet metal or cast? Brilliant work.

What is the purpose of the squirrel cage blower motor on the firewall? It looks like an injector cooler blower. I am using one for a mini heater blower in my mini '33 Willys coupe.

Do you have any plans to get a quarter mile e.t.?
 

nitrousnick

Well-known member
The air cleaner lower i made out of fiberglass and is painted to look like cast aluminum. I dont have a heater so i made a cover for the holes in the fire wall to simulate a blower motor. I dont have any updates on 1/4 mile et with the new intake, and torque converter but it went 11:60 @ 116 on 100 shot of nitrous. 13:2 @102 without.
 

bubba22349

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:beer: :wow: Yes that's some really beautiful detail work! (y) :nod:
 
100 shot. Dry shot? What rpm on activation and what is the redline?

Great looking build! I respect the attention to detail.
 

pmuller9

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What is a "dry shot"? Does that mean no additional fuel is added when nitrous is injected? That does not sound right, or even safe.
A "dry shot" means that the primary source of fuel adds the extra fuel when the nitrous is injected.
Typically it is done with port fuel injection where the injectors are sized large enough the handle the total fuel requirement.
I don't see that it applies here.
 

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER

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Interesting pmuller9.
What triggers the extra fuel?
Manifold pressure change?
Mechanical switch?

The term "dry shot" seems like a misnomer. It should be called a "wetter shot". I am not sure I would want to trade off a bigger capacity injector and all the compromises it may entail at light loading just to have enough fuel available for those N2O excursions.

I've never run nitrous. Mainly because it appeared to me that whether you are a noob to using nitrous or a seasoned pro, sooner or later it is gonna bite you. It seems that many users are of the theory that "if some is good, and more is better, then too much is just enough."
 
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pmuller9

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FTF
When using an EFI system that incorporates nitrous control, the EFI system turns on the nitrous solenoid as it increases the fuel being injected.

We used a 375 shot wet system on our 640 BBC but our Canadian competitor used one of the first dry systems from F.A.S.T
Back then our 49' Ford ran 8.40s on engine and 7.70s on the bottle.

We never had a problem because of a few simple safety features.
Never allow the nitrous to come on below cam (3500 to 4000 rpm for our engine) and turn it off just before the rev limiter by using an rpm window switch.
Pull 2 degrees of timing for every 50 hp of nitrous.
Have a fuel pressure switch shut the nitrous off if the fuel pressure drops below a certain pressure.
The nitrous can be brought on progressively by modulating the solenoids but the present day solenoids are bad enough quality that cycling them several time a second causes failures and resulting engine damage so I never used a progressive system.
It is safer to use a multi stage system if the launch needs to be softer when using a very large nitrous shot.

We ran NHRA top sportsman at the time against a dial-in time so consistency was important.
We filled the bottles to the same weight each time and launched at 900 psi bottle pressure.
That means a heating blanket during cold weather and purge the bottle pressure down in hot weather.
 
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