Build Thread 67 Mustang Coupe Build

Soldmy66

Well-known member
I still have a 2006 Infinity G35, as my DD.

Great car. Almost 300 HP, 6 speed manual trans.

If I drive it like an adult, I get a bit over 23 MPH (mixed driving)

And it has 113K miles.

Enjoy your car.
 

Georgia200

Well-known member
Fenders and grill are off.

Missing bolts, loose bolts, wrong bolts.

Front splash shields are MIA. Rear shields did their job but need replacing.

Headlight buckets are rough but savable.

I think the core support and battery apron are going to have to be replaced. I could save the core support if the battery apron was ok, but I think the metal is to thin on the support to weld on.

I could fashion a patch for the apron and bolt it on, or buy the replacement panel and bolt it over the existing panel, but I think I would rather just do it right since I have it this far apart.

My first plan was to just live with the repair that the PO did, but bondo, paint and RTV were hiding a lot more bad metal than I suspected.

I need to find a metal man.
 

Georgia200

Well-known member
Got a local guy thats going to repair my cowl, battery apron, toeboard and weld in my e-brake bracker for $500 + parts.

I ordered the apron and as soon as it comes in I will tow the car over to his shop. 1-2 weeks depending on how much time he has.

That gives me room to work on the inside of the fenders, paint the alternator and booster, plus work on all the odds and ends that need attention.

Im thinking really hard on a different direction on the powerplant. More to follow.
 

autonoob

Well-known member
Any update with regards to this project of yours? Its been almost two months since you created a follow-up report. :unsure::
 

Georgia200

Well-known member
Im having many issues. Mostly medical. I havent touched the car in about 10 months.

Im over the hump now and on the mend so I should get back to it soon.

Where it sits before I quit working: Its 5 lug all around, factory discs on the front, 8in with 2.79s, factory drums in the rear. 68 GT wheels.

New mideye springs and shocks. New GT coils and shocks, Arning drop, front swaybar, export brace and Monte Carlo bar.

The battery tray and cowl were repaired. No leaks. this car is about as rust free as a 55 year old car can be that hasnt been on a rotisserie.

The engine bay is rust free and painted. The new engine bay harness is in. I added relays for the headlights and horns. The horns are now grounded at the steering wheel and the power runs battery - fuse - relay - horn. When I press the horn button, it grounds the relay to provide 12v to the horns. No more high amperage 12V running through the steering wheel horn contacts or into the cabin for the headlights.

The brake pedal was a mismatch of parts. Thats why the booster that was on the car when I bought it failed.

All new brake and fuel lines, washer pump and heater box refurbished. 24in radiator mocked up.
 

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Georgia200

Well-known member
Future Plans:

I have a 65 8in that Im thinking of putting in. The narrower width will allow me to run 15x7 or 15x8 TTD wheels on the rear and not roll the fenders. With 15x6 on the front, the track width will be within 1/4in F to R.

Im from the 60s, I like staggered wheels/tires.

I have a D-code 289/C4 and the 250/C4 in the garage. I can go either way. I have all the parts needed to install either.

I could keep the 289 as a spare for my 65, both 289s are 5 bolt blocks.

I was having a hard time on induction for the 250. The 1100 just isnt a good carb anymore. Good cores are very difficult to find and I find that they require constant adjustment to operate properly. I dont like the look of the 2V conversion on a log head and Im not paying the money for an aluminum head.

Now that the Sniper 1V is out, that may be the way to go. I can rework my C9 head, install the Sniper, cam, headers and exhaust.

I want more umph, but I also want reliability, drivability and I want the car to look somewhat period correct.

The D-code 289 is a Jun 64 build date and all the parts are date coded within a week or so. Its a PS/AC engine. I have all the brackets, pulleys and generator. Im not sure I want to use that engine in a 67. Its in excellent condition, still has the proper 1.08 4100. Someone with a 64.5 would like to have it. A 64.5 D-code with the accessories and all the brackets, spacers and correct date code is pretty hard to come by.
 

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Georgia200

Well-known member
After some thought I think I am going with the 250 and a manual transmission.

if I dont use the 250, it will just sit on a stand for years.

I will have the head reworked to 9-9.5 CR with a Holley Sniper, header and a dual exhaust.

I also have an EAPS to install.

I would prefer a T-5 but lots of guys are pulling 3 speeds to install T-5s and I can find an entire package much cheaper than a T-5 conversion.
 

Georgia200

Well-known member
Any idea if the 200 and 250 z-bar is the same?

Swapping from a C4 to a manual, I need everything and there arent a lot of people familiar with six cylinder stuff, except on here.
 

bubba22349

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Don't think the 200 Z bar is going to be the same since the 250 block is a little wider than a 200. You might be able to mod it fit though.
 

powerband

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good to hear the 67's back with a plan:

The 250 does have a few unique characteristics.

... on the plus side, it uses same FW, clutch, bellhouse and starter as populous 302/5.0 so the choice of clutch and tranny has wide options. The long lived 'Toploader / 3.03" both in 3spd and 4 spd vesions are readily compatible. The option of OVERDRIVE using the universally available T5 or similar OD tranny enables the anvil strong 250's - torque profile to be matched with rear axle gears to provide low speed grunt and ability to easily cruise at modern hiway speeds.

Depending on goals and resources, having four gears and overdrive will optimize acceleration and hi-speed cruise well within the 250's powerband.

As mentioned ,the 250 is close to same width as V8 ,the '61 needed a Z-bar cut to fit early narrow frame width to wider 250 at ball mount.
. .



'61 has a 70's 250 with C5DA bellhouse, adapter plate , V8 T5 and 3.80 rear gears for maximum performance.

'63 has Maverick 170, C7ZA bellhouse, adapter plate, V8 T5 (NWC) and original six - 3.50 rear gears for Daily Driver reliability and cruise capablity.

'74 has OEM 250 with 80's T5 bellhouse adapted for push-rod clutch linkage, V8 T5 and 3.80 rear gears (and a supercharger) for more fun.
 
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Georgia200

Well-known member
The 250 is internally balanced so the 28oz or 50oz 289/302 fly wheels will not work.

The 250 needs a zero balance flywheel.

Try finding one of those for under $300.
 

wsa111

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Picking up a fresh shortblock on a 250.

Pretty sweet deal, oem specs. I think I will change the cam and shave the head to bump compression, then its going in.
What will be your cam choice. Remember the big 250 will tolerate a little more cam than the 200.
 

bubba22349

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So if you could find the Z bar and the other clutch linkage parts from a 1969 or 70 Mustang with a 250 six and 3 speed that's going to be a good fit into your Mustang there is a very good chance since the chassis demetions stayed very much the same for all the 1967 to 1970 Mustangs with a 302 V8 and a 3 or 4 speed trans, it wouldn't surprise me if those Z Bars will also be a bolt in fit since the 250 and 302's both shared the same bell housing. The 1971 to 73 Mustangs with a 250 or 302 might also use those same Z Bar and linkage parts though those cars look bigger externally their chassis might still be the same in the engine compartment area. Good luck in the hunt.
 

mustang6

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Not sure if you still have the 2.79:1 gears in the car, but that will be a tall rear gear for a clutch if you are on any sort of incline. That’s a much better gear for an automatic. 3.25 or 3.40 are popular 8” gears for manual transmissions.
 
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