Acceleration, possible?

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Anonymous

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Hey there,

I've been working on my 67' coupe for 4 years now, and I've replaced everything except the transmission pretty much (that's going out as we speak). Anyways, I've rebuilt the motor, added a 2 barrel carb, a nice header, 2 1/2" exhaust, new starter system, etc. My poor car is still slow. Granted I can beat the Honda boys with their trashcan mufflers, I still get smoked by real cars. Now it gets up pretty fast, but theres NO acceleration what-so-ever. It litterally takes me about 20 seconds to go from 40-60 on the freeway on ramp. It's sad, but my question is, with a straight six is there anyway to beef of that non-existant acceleration?? If anyone could help, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Thanks,
Jaryd
 
The original one, I'm guessing a c4? I'm not really too familiar with transmissions, or....engines :lol:

3.50 gears??

Jaryd
 
The first thing is to get educated. Read books about building hot rods and race cars, and subscribe to a magazine like grassroots motorsports, which has a lot of practical, real-life articles about building cars to go fast. Difnitely start by buying the ford falcon performance handbook. It takes a while, but you will begin to develop a sense about what works and why regarding making cars go fast.

So now you have a carb, headers and an exhaust. The only remaining bolt-on mod you can do is a hot ignition system. Look up Druaspark II, MSD, and DUI for starters. To get any real power, however, you will have to delve into your engine. Read the threads on head porting and modifying the log head. Read also the posts on the forthcoming aluminum head.

Aluminum head or not, if you want to go fast you will need to spend some $$. Porting the stock head, modifying the log to take advantage of your two-barrel carb, and making sure you have the bigger valves sure helps. Rebuilding the bottom end with certain modifications, including an appropriate camshaft and a targeted compression ratio will get you the rest of the way there.

There are plenty of people making some reasonable power with these engines. Virtually evey one of them has had to spend a good amount of money and time to make that happen. How much of each depends largely on your own knowledge and abilities, and of course how much you want to spend.

Remember: Safety fast! ( old MG ad campaign)
 
egomonkey":1h2ae0fz said:
Hey there,
... It litterally takes me about 20 seconds to go from 40-60 on the freeway on ramp.
Click to expand...

If you still have the stock distributor with the two-barrel carb you almost certainly do not have a proper timing curve. Falcon Fanatic is right on with his advise.
Have fun,
Joe
 
I was really surprised at going to a lighter spring in the distributor seemed to allow the engine to wind up easier. Are you still on points?
 
:D Yep,timing can really mess up the driveability of a vehicle.Had a 67 Plymouth Fury with a 318.Distributer slipped and the timing went to exactally TDC(zero advance).Took me about 30 minutes to figure it out.Reset timing to 6* BTDC,ran like a beast.
Leo
 
Check the distributor. Read the sticky on Spark Control Valve and pre68 Load o matic dist. You replaced the carb, but didn't mention the dizzy.

Upgrade to a DSII or DUI dizzy from classicinlines.com

Good luck,
 
Yup, you've got a tuning issue, most likely ignition.

'67 Distributors used the carb-controlled "Load-O-Matic" system of controlling spark advance, and '68 and newer ones use the more common centrifugal / vacuum advance control.

If you've still got the L-O-M dizzy, your ignition is guaranteed to be all wrong.

Swap to either a '68-74 points dizzy, a DuraSpark 1 dizzy from a '75 model - either way you get to keep your existing cap rotor and wires.
 
jamyers":raq32xjx said:
Swap to either a '68-74 points dizzy, a DuraSpark 1 dizzy from a '75 model - either way you get to keep your existing cap rotor and wires.
Click to expand...

Good call, that's the easiest way to go and cheapest too.
 
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