adjusting valves properly

[dawnovsky]

Hi,

I m definitly going to need help to adjust valves properly.
I have performed the method proposed by the forum. It ends up with an almost good situation, but still have a bit of valves noise so i have warmed up the engine, remove the valve cover and was really surprise to find out that all valves needed adjustement despite the fact they all all been set the day before.
so i decide to give it anoyther try.
set the engine to Cyl1 TDC, adjust number 1 I and E, N°2 I,n°3 E, etc etc, and realise when done that n°1 push rod can still be turn between fingers.
I then understand that valve spring where pushing on the lifter, allowing oil to leave the lifter and making new play after a few sec or min. (i ve read someting similar earlier in the forum)

I keep trying until i get to a point where it was no more possible to twin rocker even after a few minutes, just to see how it goes. As i was expecting, it end up with a "never closed" valves and zero compression situation.
Assuming then that lifters where fully collapse i ve start again backing off adjuster and performing the initial adjustment procedure.
so the questions are :

are my spring to strong for the lifter ?
if yes what are the option?
how can i properly set those valves ?

ps : current situation is not too bad but can probably be improved.


many thanks

 

[bubba22349]

With a hydro. lifter cam I set mine with the engine warmed up good and with it running. Back off on a rocker adjustment until it clatters than tighten up slowly until it stops than turn 1/4 turn more. It may take a couple times to get them all right if they are all clattering. Are all the rockers oiling good?

 

[dawnovsky]

hi,

i have read about this "engine on " method but i was kinda affraid of beeing either unable to place the socket on the adjuster or to see it fly around the place.
oiling seems good. plenty of oil all round the shaft, vavle and ball/cup junction. on idle oil spill quiety at all rockers. i have not try higer RPM.

 

[bubba22349]

Should not be too bad to use a socket if your idel is set low. If you see it oiling good at idel that's great., and no need to rev it to higher rpm. Good luck

 

[dawnovsky]

hi
thanks for the answer.
It makes sens to me to set valves that way as it s how its done on many engine (specialy GM V8 )
still i m kinda suprise not being able to get any good result using the proposed method from CI.
i ve run the car today and it definitly needs to be readjust as it is really clatters a lot.
previous setting was better despite the fact it was acheived after several trials n tries.

 

[bubba22349]

Yes the way C.I. Suggests will work very well it just takes developing the right feel to know when your at the zero lash position and it is also much cleaner way to do it. You could Maybe try it again and see how it goes little practice makes perfect!

 

[dawnovsky]

thanks again,
sorry to insist, but english is not my mother tongue. By Zero lash you mean no play in valve - rocker- rod-lisfter assembly ??
this, i can easily acheive from the situation where there is obvious play then tigthening slowly.

I have never let the engine run for more than a minute without the valve cover. I assume there is coorect oiling up the assembly as there is oil drops spilling every few seconds(at idel) from each rocker. nothing like a splash .
the inside of the valves cover is covered by a thin oil layer. valves stem is oily and rod cups are full of oil.
will you define this as a proper oiling ?

regards

 

[bubba22349]

Thats Right zero lash is when all play in system is removed ie from the heel of the cam lobe to the valve stem with that cylinder at TDC on compression stroke. By your description That sounds to me like you have proper oiling.

 

[dawnovsky]

thanks, that one good news ...
i ll try to work this valves adjustment tomorrow, may be trying hte method once define as compcam in the forum
warm engine, then cylinder by cylinder , zero lash +1/2 turn and then finalise as you propose with engine running.
i hope it will work fine.
proper valves adjustment might help my off idle stumbling situation as well.

 

[rbohm]

8) one thing to remember when setting zero lash is that you want to eliminate all vertical movement of the push rod that can be done by hand. in other words if you can move the push rod up and down by hand, then you do not have zero lash.

 

[FalconSedanDelivery]

Guys , Guys , The EO IC Method is what is Best all the Race Shops , Good Engine Builders ( including myself ( shameless plug ) use it , the engine running method is as dated and unnecessary as a Load-a-matic Dist , Pick a cylinder ( front or rear doesn't matter ) As the Ex just starts to open adjust the intake ( on that Cylinder ) ether set Lash or turn till lash is gone and set preload 1/4-3/4 turns , bump or turn engine ( in the correct direction of normal rotation , watch the valves move ( on the same cylinder ) when the intake opens fully and is just about to close , Set the Exhaust ( just as you did the Intake) , This works on ANY Engine , takes into account High overlap on Race Cams as well , after one cylinder is done simply move to the next , No Mess , No Marking the Dampener , Works every time , anything else is antiquated and can give problems with other than stock Cams

 

[wsa111]

P & G dial indicator valve gapper tool.
Eliminates the guess work of adjusting valves.
Can be used on solid & hydraulic lifter engines.
Eliminates the wear factor on the rocker arms giving you a false reading compared to using a feeler guage.
Adapter to fit all ford, chevy & chrysler engines.
Comes with instructions & application list for each engine.
Cost is $150.00 plus $14.00 shipping to the lower 48 states. Also can be used on big block ford sixes.
I accept paypal.
PM me if interested. Bill

Can also be used to double check the EO & IC methoed, but instead of a feeler guage this is a more accurate dial indicator measuring tool.

 

[dawnovsky]

hi,

I ve got some good result today with method describ here.
remaining noise came from an exhaust leak i ll have to fixe if i find a way to properly torque this header.
thanks for your help

regards

 

[bubba22349]

Glad to hear your making progress Have you tried retightening the header bolts when the engine is warmed up good?

 

[dawnovsky]

well it much more about how to get to the bolts . i have a 250-2v head and a 6-2 header.
looks great but the whole this is a mess to tighten, even when cold. Doing it on a boiling hot engine could be lots of fun ...

 

[bubba22349]

Yeah that's fore sure some gloves help a little.

 

[dawnovsky]

Hi all,

Still have a lot of clicks from valves.
First in order not to waste time i ve start with replacing exaust manifold gasket using copper rtv on the gasket.
As it was time for an oil change, i swap to ticket castrol 25w50 oil.
Both does not makes any difference on clicks. So they shojld deffinitly comes from valve.
Decide to swap the adjustable rocker shatf for the original unadjustable i had on the 200.
Surprisingly when craking there was no compression at all. Engine was craking n rotating almost freely.
I understand pushrod, even original, where to long for that head.
Swap back to adjustable rockers. And durprisingly again those rocker that where set good enought to makes engine run, were suddenly not giving any compression either....
I had to readjuste them from stratch.
Can this be due by s previously improper torquing of the shaft.(still it was.soludly tight)
I ve use the ci method with the same problem as a few month ago.
Lots a clicks specially when hot.
Try to locate, ysing a piece of hose , readjust but #1 valves alway makes noise. I ve stop after + a full turn after recommended setting( 1 1/2 turn afert zero lash).


Final hot afjustment is still hard to figure out.
When hot all push rod are rotating easyly between finger. if i tighten adjuster an hair more it s solid still, but if i back them off like suggested (let say -1/4) it also take an extra hair to makes them solid still (witch is ending in a situation where adjuster are less tighten than before)

I think i need advices.
Is 1 1/2 too much?
Am i setting properly?
Is this indicating dead lifters (there are new from ci)?

What should i do?

 

[Frankenstang]

Decide to swap the adjustable rocker shatf for the original unadjustable i had on the 200.
Surprisingly when craking there was no compression at all. Engine was craking n rotating almost freely.

You do realize that when you remove the rocker arm/shaft assembly that you'll bleed off all hydraulic pressure in the lifters, right? You can pull the lifters and prime them in an oil bath, or just crank it over long enough for the lifters to pump up hydraulic pressure once more...can take a couple minutes of cranking.

 

[dawnovsky]

As far as i understand, when push rod is removed, oil chamber of the lifter is fully open, as well as oil gallery, allowing oil to enter the lifter.

Decide to swap the adjustable rocker shatf for the original unadjustable i had on the 200.
Surprisingly when craking there was no compression at all. Engine was craking n rotating almost freely.

You do realize that when you remove the rocker arm/shaft assembly that you'll bleed off all hydraulic pressure in the lifters, right? You can pull the lifters and prime them in an oil bath, or just crank it over long enough for the lifters to pump up hydraulic pressure once more...can take a couple minutes of cranking.

 

[bubba22349]

As far as i understand, when push rod is removed, oil chamber of the lifter is fully open, as well as oil gallery, allowing oil to enter the lifter.

True though you do need oil pressure again to pump the lifters back up after being tightened down. You can use a 1/2 inch drill and cut down distributor to re pressurize the engine's oil galley. Dose your engine have good oil pressure? How long after shut down dose it take for the oil pressure to bleed off?

There is also another way you can use to set them too. I set mine up a little different than most people, this can be used with any engine that has adjustable rockers and (hyd. lifters). After warming the engine good than set the rockers with engine running there is chance for a little oil splash an old valve cover cut so you can get to the adjusters or there are clip on type that diverts oil splash. Back each rocker off one at a time until they click good than turn until they stop (that's zero lash) than I go a 1/4 turn more. Using a setting of zero plus a ¼ turn tighter they might sometimes tick after sitting overnight at start up until the lifters pump up many people don’t like hearing the tick and think there is something wrong but it won't hurt it. If it dose bother you just add another ¼ to ½ a turn.