auto choke re-work

[Anonymous]

I think I have found the holy grail. When your manifold hole is bad and you tap it out and put a bolt in it there is life after death. Drill a small hole into and through the bolt all the way, then drill a hole the size of the pipe from the auto choke and push it in the hole. Wah la the auto choke works again like new. If you are getting to much exhaust into the tube you can crimp it a small amount to cut down on the exhaust but still get the heat where you need it. This ought to be a hot item.

 

[ludwig]

It'll be real hot. So hot it'll melt the black cap (and inject exhaust into the carb throat via that little hole).

You need to get a soft aluminum tube and flare it at one end. Connect that one to the carb with the stock compression nut. With the other 16 to 18 inches of tube, wrap it around the OUTSIDE of the stock manifold or header about four times. This will pull hot, CLEAN(er) air into the choke and make it work like new.

Or get a little choke stove and riser tube that mounts on the outside of the manifold. This is what you want. The metal panel is a little dome that collects hot air from the pipe under it.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr.+Gasket/720/3665/10002/-1

 

[JackFish]

Have you had the manifold off? Can you verify that the chamber inside hasn't been compromised and that you aren't sending exhaust fumes into the choke?

 

[Anonymous]

There isn't anything between the space inside. It had all corroded away so I took out the pieces that was left so the heat would come through. I just had another idea to put a plug into the hole then put the tube into it.

 

[JackFish]

There isn't anything between the space inside. It had all corroded away so I took out the pieces that was left so the heat would come through. I just had another idea to put a plug into the hole then put the tube into it.

It might be a good idea IF you put the tube all the way through the manifold.

 

[Anonymous]

the more we talk the better it gets. I am really getting wound up with all these ideas. All the way would not get the exhaust up and just the heat. Wow, why didn't I think of that. Thanks Tom

 

[ludwig]

All the way would not get the exhaust up and just the heat.

"Til the tube burned through (like the cast iron).

 

[fordconvert]

Looks like pretty minor cracks I guess I can live with it.

Dang, looks like time to order a new one.

 

[fordconvert]

Most parts stores carry this line, the ones that dont seem to have their own name on this stuff. jegs and napa would be examples. 9 times out of 10 the part numbers here will cross to whatever the store brand if they dont carry it under the dorman/ help number

Go here type in 'choke' under keyword, you will see several repair kit and conversion options.

https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-bin/ ... vtime=3672

 

[ludwig]

That Dorman part is basically what I linked to but with more plugs and fittings for your application.

That corroded blossom in the middle of the #3/4 port of fordconvert's photo is what the tube has to go through if you simply put a tube all the way through. That same thing will happen to the tube except much sooner and the exhaust will be forced up the tube like before.

 

[fordconvert]

I use jegs a lot, always had what I wanted in stock and their shipping has been very fast. From parts stores I have not had much luck getting MrGasket numbers to cross or even come up as available at many stores even though Im 99% sure they can get it. For what ever reason the Dorman numbers work pretty well. You all know how it goes if you dont have a make and model to punch into the computer. I had one store where I could see the part I wanted on the shelf behind the counter and the guy still did not want to sell it to me without a make and model.

 

[Anonymous]

I finally got my auto choke right. I removed the bolt that I drilled completely through to get hot air and drilled a hole down about 1/8 of an inch to where the tube will just fit, then installed the bolt back into the exhaust manifold. Fired up the engine and let it get hot. The auto choke opened just like it is supposed to so problem solved. The hot air will not go through the tube because the hole isn't though the bolt.

 

[fordconvert]

Im not clear on what you did. Are you getting exhaust into the tube/ choke now? You should not be getting exhaust into the tube/choke. If you remove the tube from the choke with the engine running there should be nothing going in or out of the tube. The choke/ carb draws air that is heated by the exhaust (but is NOT exhaust). With the engine running you should feel or be able to read (with a vac gauge) a slight draw into the choke. If you are drawing exhaust gas into the choke it wont work for long.

 

[Anonymous]

The bolt that I replaced doesn't have the hole drilled all the way through but just a very short distance. If I take the tube out there is no exhaust coming out. It is just a heat transfere from the manifold to the tube.

 

[fordconvert]

Sounds like you are good then. I just wanted to make sure you did not have exhaust getting to your carb.

 

[Anonymous]

Ludwig told me about the hot air going straight into the choke will burn out the plastic cap and mess up everything for the choke. We went through a lot of possibilities for what to do. He told me about the wrap around the manifold job that transferes more heat over a larger area of pipe but that was not what I wanted. This seems to work great and look good also. It is called hole remanufacturing. Thanks for the concern. Tom