autolite 1100 rebuild

myblue67

Active member
Im pulling my carb apart to rebuild it. When I pulled the dashpot cover off I noticed that it was a little warped. Is this a big issue? can I sand it flat or something? Also, on the cover there is a Hi Lo setting with a pin in one or the other. It has been at Hi but the directions say thats for 50 degrees or lower and I live in California. Should I put it to Lo or is there a benefit to keeping it at Hi?

Thanks
SG
 
Howdy Back SG:

Yes, the benefit would be slightly better mileage in stop and go driving. The "Hi" setting give a slightly bigger shot of gas when the accelerator pedal is depressed. The only benefit to keeping it at the high setting is it may help on start up and/or acceleration. If the carb is in need of a rebuild (read the accelerator pump is shot) the "hi" setting on the accelerator pump lever may help some. The "hi" setting is also used for elevations over 3,500 ft.

On the cover warpage, yes, it can be sanded to level. Just don't overdo it. two gaskets or a thicker gasket can usually get it to seal. Was it leaking?

Adios, David
 
Well I took it apart, and back together again with the new gaskets and all. Now the car wont start and gas is pouring out of the front where the filter goes into the carb. I can keep the engine going with my foot on the gas but it will not idle... What could be causing thins? what should the air/fuel screw and idle screws be at to begin with?

Thanks
 
You have vacuum leaks all over. Start with using teflon tape to seal the filter at the front of the carb.

Make sure the float actually floats and has the right amount of travel.

Make sure the choke plate stays open.
 
I don't know why I would have vacuum leaks. I was able to get it to idle but at very high rpm. I tried to turn out the idle screw and nothing changed. Meanwhile gas was shooting all over from the front and the fan was blowing it. When I closed the choke plate to kill the engine it still ran. The front filter screwed up the threads in the hole so I don't know what to do about that either..
 
If it still ran with the choke plate closed all the way, you have a vacuum leak, one or more.
 
I was able to get it to idle but at very high rpm. I tried to turn out the idle screw and nothing changed.

The mixture screws will have no effect because the carb is now by passing the idle circuit when its at a high RPM.
 
it must be coming from the filter. It messed up the threads so I might have to JB weld a new one on. Thats probably where air was getting in and gas coming out.
 
Did you use the correct type filter? Some carbs have a pipe fitting thread and others use a tubing thread with a flare fitting (seat)
 
I fixed the leak and now the car just wont idle. It will start but when my foots off the gas it dies. What should I do?

thanks
 
Turn the idle mixture screw so that it's 1 1/2 turns out. Then raise the the idle speed as needed (little at a time or if you have a tach set it to 650 RPM) look for this adjustment screw that opens the throttle blade it's near where the the throttle linage is hooked up. Good luck
 
bubba22349":19l71u2q said:
Turn the idle mixture screw so that it's 1 1/2 turns out. Then raise the the idle speed as needed (little at a time or if you have a tach set it to 650 RPM) look for this adjustment screw that opens the throttle blade it's near where the the throttle linage is hooked up. Good luck

How many turns should the idle speed screw be at for initial start up?

Thanks
 
myblue67":y2wclj17 said:
bubba22349":y2wclj17 said:
Turn the idle mixture screw so that it's 1 1/2 turns out. Then raise the the idle speed as needed (little at a time or if you have a tach set it to 650 RPM) look for this adjustment screw that opens the throttle blade it's near where the the throttle linage is hooked up. Good luck

How many turns should the idle speed screw be at for initial start up?

Thanks

As myblue67 states, turn the idle mixture screw in until it seats (DO NOT tighten screw) then back it out 1 1/2 turns.
 
Won't be an exact setting but Try between a 1/4 to 1/2 turn more than you have now. You want only just enough idle rpm so it will run smooth when the engine is warmed up, with the choke off when your foot off the pedal trans in neutral if its a stick or drive with foot on brake if its an auto. Good luck :nod:
 
Hi.
I had the same problem with my Autolite 1100. The float was not adjusted correctly, I adjusted it to 1 5/32 and corrected that problem. The other problem I had was the engine would not stay idling unless I held the choke plate open with a screw driver. I found out that adjusting the plastic nut (it opens the choke plate) to where the engine would start solved this problem.

Hopes this helps

Raul
 
68 Six":2quob8nr said:
Hi.
I had the same problem with my Autolite 1100. The float was not adjusted correctly, I adjusted it to 1 5/32 and corrected that problem. The other problem I had was the engine would not stay idling unless I held the choke plate open with a screw driver. I found out that adjusting the plastic nut (it opens the choke plate) to where the engine would start solved this problem.

Hopes this helps

Raul

Just tried changing the float, nothing different... the idle speed screw touched the backing and then 1.5 turns and the mixture screw was bottomed then screwed out 1.5. I don't see a plastic nut and the car still will not idle. How do I check if the idle curcuit is clogged or something? Don't know how it could be.
 
Back
Top