Autolite 1100 smooth idle
- Thread starter 63falcon4drwagon
- Start date
It's has a brass throdle shaft so it would need to be brazed not welded. Why not try to re peen it with a hammer first see if you can tighten it up? You would need to use the right size of pin, bolt, or a punch in a vise on the oposite end to hammer against. I have done that in the past a few times with good results. Good luck 
RichCreations
Well-known member
soft silver bearing solder would also be safer then brazing, much lower heat...
63falcon4drwagon
Well-known member
The throdle arms have been steel for a long time. So that's great then if the shaft is also steel too and you be good to go on tach welding it then. 63falcon4drwagon
Well-known member
63falcon4drwagon":38g1c8bp said:
I wuz thinkin a 60* center punch in the hole @ the end would widen it out but like ur idea much better. My idea would possibly 'take away' while ur idea 'adding' is way beddah!
Let us know how it does~
63falcon4drwagon
Well-known member
[ 
everybody's different. I like the auto better. U just need a new 'cap' (the blk 'bakelite' thing) internal 'bimetal coil', all set. Lill wire to the stator lug on the alternator…
good luck, let us know how it goes !
good luck, let us know how it goes !
63falcon4drwagon
Well-known member
"…for a 4.9 and a 3.3…"
seems kinda fishy to me -
The YF is an excellent 1v. It's readily available used and rebuilt (w/o going to something like this one).
But not very tunable.
Try USA based co.s 1st (Mike's Carbs, Daytona, I 4get the others) some of us trust em more.
(Or back to the pick'npull).
Most folks here rebuild one of them (even if purchased as "rebuilt").
If U wanna upgrade for a 200 (or do U have a 250?) get one from the truck (240/300) but you/ll hafta adapt 'the hole' cuz
the truck is a bigger one (inc the butterfly @base which won't open w/o the change). Double check
the bolt spacing too as I believe that's larger (further) too.
Look to the "Performance Handbook"/u] (hardcopy) or the Classic Inlines (site, just make no purchases there) for more details.
If ur thinkin of a carb switch 1st make sure of what you want the vehicle to achieve/be used for. That will more clearly guide the choice for you…
(sorry if sounding patronizing, not sure where you;re at w/all this).
seems kinda fishy to me -
The YF is an excellent 1v. It's readily available used and rebuilt (w/o going to something like this one).
But not very tunable.
Try USA based co.s 1st (Mike's Carbs, Daytona, I 4get the others) some of us trust em more.
(Or back to the pick'npull).
Most folks here rebuild one of them (even if purchased as "rebuilt").
If U wanna upgrade for a 200 (or do U have a 250?) get one from the truck (240/300) but you/ll hafta adapt 'the hole' cuz
the truck is a bigger one (inc the butterfly @base which won't open w/o the change). Double check
the bolt spacing too as I believe that's larger (further) too.
Look to the "Performance Handbook"/u] (hardcopy) or the Classic Inlines (site, just make no purchases there) for more details.
If ur thinkin of a carb switch 1st make sure of what you want the vehicle to achieve/be used for. That will more clearly guide the choice for you…
(sorry if sounding patronizing, not sure where you;re at w/all this).
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