Back To Square One Again!

tony1963

Well-known member
Well, after 3 weeks of driving the Granada after having the cylinder head repaired, I believe that we are back to where I started.

The car is fouling the plug on #3 cylinder. I didn't know that the head was cracked and the machine shop had it welded without consulting me. Anyway, I installed it and it ran great for about 2 weeks. Now it is missing again and I have cleaned the plug 3x. Seems to foul the plug in 2 days.

I guess the answer is another head. Where in the world do you get one for this vintage? 1981 3.3L 200 6.
 
Tony if you just want to get things done and have the funds, you can probably find one quickly rebuilt at an engine reman. place where you live and just pay the core charge since your head sounds screwed, or you can scrounge and take it to a machine shop and have a used one rebuilt, if you want to bump up compression have them shave a few thousands off it, just make sure they sell you the newer head.
 
Well, now I'm not sure. I'm suspicious of the head but here's what is going on.

This morning, I pulled all of the plugs. Each plug is near white in the center with one side of the electrode coated with what appears to be gloss black paint.

Wire brushing the plugs cleans them up and it runs fine. I also had the gap too small so I set them to factory specs, about .052.

Hard to tell if I am losing coolant. If I am, it is not much. Anyway, ideas would be greatly appreciated!
 
Yes, it had a valve job with all new seals. They knurled the valve guides without asking me. I would have paid for bronze inserts, but the job is done.

The car does use about 1qt of oil every 500-700 miles.
 
tony1963":5jx59c6w said:
Yes, it had a valve job with all new seals. They knurled the valve guides without asking me. I would have paid for bronze inserts, but the job is done.

The car does use about 1qt of oil every 500-700 miles.

8) using oil at that rate usually means you are burning it as well as leaking it. do a cylinder leak down test and a compression check and see what kind of condition your motor is in.
 
These are the compression readings for each cylinder, engine cold, all plugs removed, enging cranking:

1 - 130 lbs
2 - 125 lbs
3 - 140 lbs
4 - 130 lbs
5 - 130 lbs
6 - 130 lbs

How do these look to everyone?
 
tony1963":3laui3w8 said:
These are the compression readings for each cylinder, engine cold, all plugs removed, enging cranking:

1 - 130 lbs
2 - 125 lbs
3 - 140 lbs
4 - 130 lbs
5 - 130 lbs
6 - 130 lbs

How do these look to everyone?

8) the compression numbers look good to me, the lowest cylinder is with in 15psi of the highest cylinder.
 
I guess the answer is another head. Where in the world do you get one for this vintage? 1981 3.3L 200 6.

Theres one at the local junkyard where I get most of my parts. I also have one in storge but it will need the valves ground. I'm not too far away from you, I do most of my car work in Cartersville, which is about 50 miles from Chattanooga.
 
tony1963":1ymonqsx said:
These are the compression readings for each cylinder, engine cold, all plugs removed, enging cranking:

1 - 130 lbs
2 - 125 lbs
3 - 140 lbs
4 - 130 lbs
5 - 130 lbs
6 - 130 lbs

How do these look to everyone?
Not bad numbers, although whenever adjacent cylinders have the exact same compression it *can* mean a blown head gasket that's letting them all equalize pressure.

I'd do another compression test, this time with a warm engine, and be as precise in the measuring as you can (nearest 1 psi).
 
Not bad numbers, although whenever adjacent cylinders have the exact same compression it *can* mean a blown head gasket that's letting them all equalize pressure.

with all the plugs removed?
 
There's no blown head gasket, I just did the whole top end.

The original head was cracked in two places and the shop welded the cracks with nickel. I am uncertain as to whether the head is seeping coolant, or not.

The problem was fouling on the spark plugs, in particular, #2. Each plug is ash white with one side black, like it was painted on with a brush.

I opened the plug gap to factory specs and it seems to be okay now. I'll have to drive it a while and see if I am losing coolant.
 
The reported condition of your plugs as black on one side would seem to me to indicate a rich condition. Can you check your carb?

Redo the compression test only this time warm. Hold the throttle wide open while cranking. Do it dry first then put in one teaspon of oil in each cylinder (wet) just before taking the wet compression read. This should give some indication of the condition of your engine.

Good Luck
Sam
 
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