bolt broke of in head

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hey y`all the other day when I went to take the exhaust mannifold off the head one of the bolts broke off in it and nothing is sticking out to get ahold of it so what do you all think would be the best way to get it out of there short of TNT . Thanks :D
 
If its on:-

exhast port number 5, you have to hacksaw it out. It's just a loose bolt there, which has a nut in the back of it.

Sometimes, you can do a hacksaw cut to turn the stump into flat head screw.

Any where else, and its pentrating oil and CRC soaking for two days, drill a hole, and make a fake flat head screw then hit it with an impact driver, or just keep on drilling out by hand.

X. Eazi-outs are bad news. If it breaks, it gets stuck in the stud, and is virtually impossible to get out unless you have a drill press and the head removed.

Hope that helps.
 
Sorry, but the best way to pull that bolt out would be to remove the head. Due to the angle of the exhast ports you'd need to be a contortionist just to get the right angle. (watch someone prove me wrong!) One the head is off, you can use a few different methods. I agree with xecute, don't use easy outs. They tend to break & then you'll need a diamond tip bit to drill everything out (thats from experiance!). I've had success with either drilling out the bolt or to use a cutting torch (good method actually). Since the head would be off you might as well get it cleaned & rebuilt (valve job, etc.). Just a suggestion. Hope this helps. Take care,
Edwin
 
the head isn`t on the engin cuz I have the engin all apart on a stand and trust me I`m gonna do alot more to that head than just rebuild it :wink: . well I gess its time for me to charge up my drill and wish I had a torch :twisted: :roll: thanks and X it was #6 :x
 
There's a few tricks if you're limited in budget. Sounds like you have a cordless drill - good start. You'll need a couple of drill bits, and a tap of the correct size. Put the manifold back on firmly with all the other bolts - not tight. Pick the drill size which fits snug or just binds through the lug missing a bolt. For the sake of $2, make sure this bit is brand new.

You're going to use it to peck the surface. Drill slowly making sure it doesn't grab the edge of the manifold hole, and stop when the "wall" of the hole (in the head itself) is about 3/32". Take off the manifold again.

Get your 1/8" bit. This is the riskiest moment. Using the centred indent the larger drill created, slowly drill into the bolt. Use high drilling speed, almost no pressure, and make sure you are as square to the exhaust flange as possible. When the 1/8" hole is about 5/16" deep, it's enough. Go up to 3/16" and repeat the procedure. Excess pressure on the drill can cause either the drill bit to bend and break, or to bind on the edge of the smaller hole, breaking it.

Now you're up to 1/4". There's a good chance the hole you're drilling is off-centre to the original. That's life. The 1/4" drill is pretty stout, so you aim to drill through the bolt, not just a little in. Situation now, is that the heat from drilling and the reduced stress from the hollowed bolt, will usually loosen the thing. If you haven't hit the threads yet, go up a 64th at a time in drill size until you do. An ezy-out will now work OK, if reversing the drill or a screwdriver tip won't do it alone. Clean the threads with a plug tap of the correct UNC size.

Good luck. :)
 
I liked addo's idea but there is one thing you could add before or after to try it might help ( It works better if the bolt is hollow)
Take a propane torch and heat the flange good and hot then take a eyedropper with water in it and cool the bolt with out cooling the flange. Let the water flow thru the bolt. the idea of this is to expand the flange around the bolt.
I have seen pressfit cam gears put on 2.5 gm front wheel drive engines while in the car with this method. (heated cam gear and a icecube on the cam)
Jim
 
Just one thing to Addo's suggestion, use reverse twist drill bits instead of standard twist (you know, lefty loosey, righty tighty :lol: ). Many times, the bolt will back out while drilling. :thumbup:
 
8) I agree...drill it out carefully and use heat. Then use an easy out, in over 36 years of working on cars, etc. I have yet the have an easy out break. Finese the bolt out not force it.
 
It makes you wonder why they don't make semi-disposable, ductile easy outs. Sure, you'd feel like a goose if you bent it, but they're so brittle!
 
addo you`r right about me being short on cash I`m at the age that pretty much the only job I can get is at a fast food place (you gotta be 17 to work at a parts store :roll: ) and I`m out 100.oo because my sisters buick crapsters head gasket went by by that was not a fun car to work on :evil: . thanks every one gess I`ll go get them new drill bits now :D
 
I like to use my mig to remove bolts. build up a bead off the top of it about 1/4-1/2" then put visegrips on and turn. used this moethod on a pipe plug in a 2.3L block (socket had rusted out so that a allen key would just slip) if it is broken flush I would weld a nut on and turn it off that way.

nick
 
We have kits here at work that you use to centre the drill before you try the easy out .If the bolts broken off flush you glue or adhere a locating collar over the hole or top of bolt then insert the correct drill size insert in to the collar and then drill .if its broken below the surface you put and expanding collet into the hole put on the special nut for the collet ,tighten
then you will have dead centre of the bolt .The kit is called "QUIKCENTRE"
and its made by "RECOIL" .There a bit pricey down here but you could try a email to recoilsales@recoilusa.com for a dealer .We normally only sell these to machine shops who see alot of action and charge for the pleasure
of removing your bolts .

cheers dave
 
trick from working on the 911 as well as the mustang, drill a hole in the broken off bolt, then pound an allen wonch into the whole you drilled in the broken bolt. Then heat let cool heat let cool a couple of times and you might just bale to back the bolt out. It has woked for me.

Bill
 
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