All Big Six Build thread, f350 4x4 Dually

Relates to all big sixes

sdiesel

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can i use this post to chronicle the Entire truck, not just the engine?

myself and my evil twin ( two evils make one good) have to put a truck together before the first of the year.
i need it for my travels and mostly to clear up the mess on the property and consolidate many ugly components into one functioning vehicle.

if im allowed to do so the thread will not in too much detail see the assembly of one truck from two or three .
i have a running driving 88 gas rig, that will donate the body with a/c. 5 spd truck.
the frame from ford i do not like but have found no replacement as yet, is also an 88 f35 dually frame with GM rear axle ( too much axle), a ford front axle . should be a strait swap.
engine im a little dubious about is a .060 over NA
that will receive a contoured head from promax.
nothing too exciting there.
a 5 speed and so on.
Schneider cam the 256 i believe.with their lifters, and goop.
i will get bigger pushrods.
components are from jobbers service with hypers and standard rings a virgin crank cast, not forged.
build up the frame then set the body on.
easy...ha! its a ton of work in the rain. but i wont melt.
this is the second time around for this truck. the last. i hope, but thats untrue too. i fully expect i will end up with a 67 cab on this frame with a remote turbo 300, in the end and likely a zf 6.
if i can find an f55 frame of proper dimension i would put that together but the only frame for sale here is far too expensive.
its a sad tale but the more i work on ford the more i admire GM engineering. why ford did not give us a flat frame for flatbed cab chassis is beyond comprehension. dumb.

it began as a 460/ c6 truck and along the way became anything but that.

anyway if i can put the build thread on here i will. this is the sole forum im involved with.
 

Pontus

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Supporter 2021
Well, I don't mind. This is where I was encouraged to put my build thread, and others seemed to do the same. The econoline corner doesn't seem to be used much. I mostly just post details of the engine build since that's what the forum is for and the stage I'm currently at, but I do share other general accomplishments just because it's my build thread. I told the van's story and then moved on to the engine build. This too is my sole forum for the project.
 

sdiesel

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the canvas.
a 1988 f35 chassis. AAM Rear axle. the frame is cab chassis narrowing to 34" in the rear.
this week we will see a regear of the front axle to 3.73 to match the gearing in the rear.
combined with a turned up 300 5 manual gears and a run- empty scenario the ratio seems a good compromise. i might be sorry i did not go to 4.10. and change rear gears.
the day of heavy haul are over
lazy man's tire/ wheel liftframe on top is the gm flat frame.
eventually the long gm rear springs and hangers will go on some how. this truck has had a 460, 351, two sixes and now, a third six
last pic is under propane when i worked her pretty hard.

and i will cross-tie my stands. ill use ratchet straps. I should have done it first thing
 

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sdiesel

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further strip down today.
going to 3.73 in the front to match rear gears which are duramax ratios.
remove axle, remove gears : in like new condition 30 years on. and i have used this rig HARD for most of its life, and it began life in the oil patch canada.
tomorrow we drop new gears in unless i decide on limited slip in front then i have to go round up a track lok or something.
mono leaf front spring is kinda sketchy.
im considering options. these are superduty 11,500 gvwr front springs with one leaf removed.
with both leaves the ride was intolerable.

with the six i have low weight above the springs and they are in good shape.
i did talk with King shock about a coil over combo. as usual with my ideas they talked to me like i was an idiot , which might actually be tru at times
 

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pmuller9

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I like having the entire project posted on one thread. It makes it easier to see what influenced each decision.
When you said “contoured Promaxx head” are you referring to the CNC ported head?
 

sdiesel

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i am. the ported head will go on the .060 block , for now. i called it contour for no particular reason.
we begin on assembly today of that block as im dithering on if i will install a limited slip in front axle or no. im not putting axle back together today.
 

pmuller9

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Can I persuade you to use a longer duration Schneider cam?
The 131H or the 135H will give you a wider power band without sacrificing low rpm torque and allow a higher compression ratio than the 256H.

You would need an 8.2 compression ratio with the 256H cam.
The "D" dish piston would have too much compression.
The 32cc round dish would be needed.
 
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Shorty

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im dithering on if i will install a limited slip in front axle or no.
selectable locker in the front is my vote, limited slip does what it says, slips but within limits. Had a limited slip in the front of my truck and it left me stuck too many times, not much better than open. Now it's welded and I just lock one hub till I need more traction. With front locked it doesn't steer too good but it sure digs in and hooks up. Would be nice to be able to do that from ont the cab so next time it comes apart it will get a new carrier with a selectabel locker.
 

BigBlue94

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I have a Detroit truetrac LS in my front diff and a detroit locker in the rear. The TT works great, but can get squirrely on snow or ice, especially with a locker in the rear. The only time the TT goes "open" is when one wheel is off the ground. A tap on the brakes usually solves this and sends traction to both again. I had it out in Moab a couple years ago with zero traction issues.
 

GPGoverMPG

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Supporter 2021
I'm running lockout hubs in the front. I'm going to start with welding up my spider gears. I'll wind up going with a spool unit in front. in good traction conditions just leave a hub unlocked.
 

sdiesel

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Can I persuade you to use a longer duration Schneider cam?
The 131H or the 135H will give you a wider power band without sacrificing low rpm torque and allow a higher compression ratio than the 256H.

You would need an 8.2 compression ratio with the 256H cam.
The "D" dish piston would have too much compression.
The 32cc round dish would be needed.
you sure can. the cam was selected when using a factory head. now with the planned promax head thats all out the window.
the Schneider people are a delight but im not comitted to them .
ive considered the melling cams in part due to the deep discounts i get through jobbers service on melling product. so yes im easily persuaded to move to a different cam .
the pistons are SP d dish i believe, but will have to check tomorrow .
or get pics.
ive got so much ford six here im confused as to what goes with which.
today there were no fewer that 5 folks two of them women, hanging round the place, got nothing done.
will get back to you.
my memory tells that with the current head / pistons the ratio was closer to 9.: 1 but thats memory.
 

pmuller9

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pic of piston for this block
Those are the Speed Pro pistons that are supposed to have a 25cc dish volume. It would be great if you would CC the dish.
The Promaxx CNC head should have a 73cc chamber.

The piston at zero deck will give you an 8.9 compression ratio and an 8.45 if left .030" down in the bore.
That range should cover any cam you choose.

What type of power band would you like?
 
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sdiesel

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powerband beginning low and cruise at 2500-ish i suppose.
gears 3.73 tires are 31" +/-.
.78 od
should land me somewhere in that 2500 area i would guess.
fuel will be Fish, but very seriously considering a 2300 sniper super, with the aussie intake.
efi exhaust, holley distributor.
unsure at this time, and ive plenty time to consider.
this fuel will then transfer over to the turbo block ive been supposed to be building for years now.
this .060 block is just the closest one to finish so im doing it first.
and its in the way.
so out the door it goes.
 

sdiesel

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that compression ratio you quote me, might even handle low boost pressure but im unsure the block can handle it .
what say you?.
in other words i can fab up a turbo system with this block in place and get it working functionally then drop my turbo virgin block in with the real turbo parts
 

BigBlue94

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that compression ratio you quote me, might even handle low boost pressure but im unsure the block can handle it .
what say you?.
in other words i can fab up a turbo system with this block in place and get it working functionally then drop my turbo virgin block in with the real turbo parts
Im far from a pro, but I believe that will depend on cam and DCR. I was told that my 9.75SCR/7.47DCR was too high for really any streetable boost. Especially with my 4.060 bore block
 

pmuller9

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powerband beginning low and cruise at 2500-ish i suppose.
I don't see you needing power over 4000 rpm.
The Schneider 135H (13919) .472"/.472" 214/214 270/270 110deg or something similar from another cam company would put the peak torque between 2500 and 3000 rpm and pull nicely to 4000 rpm with plenty of low end torque.

As far as using the .060" over block with boost there are several options:
1.) Try it as is and see what happens.
2.) Sonic test all six cylinders. The Major thrust side (passenger side) should have at least .150" wall thickness.
The Minor side (drivers side) should have .135"
Adjacent side between cylinders cannot be less than .100"
3.) Sleeve the block down to 4.00" with .090" ductile iron sleeves and have better cylinder walls than the stock gray iron.

What will you use for the turbocharger exhaust manifold?
 

sdiesel

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sleeving block is a ready option. but i have virgin blocks i will use for " the real deal". the ductile intrigues.
the purpose built nature of this truck indicates to me it will be driven casually and regularly but not severely. thus everything gotta work everyday with few surprises.

turbo will be remote under flatbed, or even in side tool box! with either long tubes , twinscroll or efi twinscroll. likely it will end up at the very end of the header collector or just behind the cab. a regular cab,
boost goal is around 10 psi.
with a water/ meth means of control.
unsure on turbo model. need reliability so probably a " name brand" BW holset or such
air filtration will be back of cab ' ala hino, isuzu.

exhaust will continue to be my 6.9 diesel muffler / pipe thing out the back passenger side
current block is going in mostly to use it up as its in the way, ready to assemble and i have not found a buyer for it. had i sold it i would have started in on a turbo block already.
 

sdiesel

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the weather here has been evil. much rain and wind. i need to spot paint the frame where rust is getting a hold.
the rear most cross members and cab supports mostly.
but weather intervention has put that on hold.
the front axle if it gets any love beyond a new set of gears might get some SEM RUST stuff on it but likely not .only if i get overly ambitious, a trait ive not been known to exert much in the past.
i ordered and received a powerlock.
im having second thots, but not many.
i have l.s. in the rear with the duals. this blamed truck is so heavy that getting stuck means really stuck.
my evil twin thinks ive wasted my money and he said all a power lock ( speaking from experience) will do is get me into a ditch quicker.
i still dither on this.
engine came apart for the last time today to change cams. a cleaning and back together this weekend .
the ductile iron sleeving sounds tailor- maid for the turbo build if one were concerned about a very good seal in the area of rings
 
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