All Big Six Build thread, f350 4x4 Dually

Relates to all big sixes

pmuller9

5K+
VIP
Supporter 2018
Supporter 2021
Are the scorpion and Harland sharp rockers reliable for many miles? I would hope 200,000 not just 50,000. I'm worried about aluminum instead of steel in a daily driver.
The Scorpion and Harland Sharp rockers are rated at 600 lbs spring pressure. The aluminum bodies are not going to break.
The roller bearings are hardened steel and should last very long with the low spring pressures of a street cam.
Plus the roller rocker has almost no valve stem side force so the valve guides last longer.
The rocker arms can also be sent back for a rebuild.
 

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER

5K+
VIP
Supporter 2021
Supporter 2020
Supporter 2018
Aluminum has a finite life. Whether it be an airframe, connecting rod or bicycle frame it is subject to fatigue. The operative word here is how high they get stressed. Since all aftermarket aluminum roller rockers and designed more-or-less for high valve lift, high RPM operation I think in a street driven vehicle with a moderate lift cam and certainly at the low end of the revability spectrum (no sustained 10,000 RPM operation) it will be ages before the aluminum reaches its limit of useful life and fails.

What I would worry about more is the failure of the tiny needle bearings that support the aluminum rocker arms. I use roller rockers in a couple of streetable hot rods and stay after it with frequent oil changes. Even though my hot rod coupe has had them since 1989 it does not get driven all that much so the mileage is low. It has 1.75 Chevys on the intake and 1.60 Fords on the exhausts.

EDIT: pmuller9 posted nearly the same opinion at nearly the same time.
What's that about great minds think alike?
 

sdiesel

1K+
VIP
those are concerns i have as well.
the emphasis at Ford engineering level would have to include longevity issues.


the aftermarket? um, get the shitt sold, seems to be the motivation. its a big con of color titilation and endorsement.... very leery of that.
i bought the elgin ss, chev rockers for this attempt at increasing power and hopefully not sacrificing durability in this engine build.

edit: concurrent and differing opinions.

take long heat cycles of 10 hours, heavy weight, lots of variation in rpm and torque load, the vagaries of life on the interstate, missed shifts, and the need to start and function at any hour make me unsure the " hotrod weekender or racer who views the world a short distance at a time, covering that distance as rapidly as possible, longevity be dammed..... can be catered to as one aftermarket mfgr. might seek the business of the bunch of us looking for just a little more from what ford gave us initially
 
Last edited:

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER

5K+
VIP
Supporter 2021
Supporter 2020
Supporter 2018
...
the emphasis at Ford engineering level would have to include longevity issues.
...one might seek the business of the bunch of us looking for just a little more from what ford gave us initially
You raise another interesting point sdiesel.
While at Ford working on the Mustang GT 5.0 I did a study on several aftermarket roller rockers vs the Ford stamped factory stuff. What I learned when comparing lift-at-the-valve plots is that all the aftermarket rocker arms opened the valves further than the factory ones. The Ford stamping actually opened the hipo cammed engine's valves only 1.37 times the lobe lift - not the advertised 1.5:1. There is a (somewhat) logical explanation to this which I'll not expound on here, but the gains I saw on the dyno were largely due to more valve lift, not the reduced motoring friction of the moving parts.
crazy
 

sdiesel

1K+
VIP
You raise another interesting point sdiesel.
While at Ford working on the Mustang GT 5.0 I did a study on several aftermarket roller rockers vs the Ford stamped factory stuff. What I learned when comparing lift-at-the-valve plots is that all the aftermarket rocker arms opened the valves further than the factory ones. The Ford stamping actually opened the hipo cammed engine's valves only 1.37 times the lobe lift - not the advertised 1.5:1. There is a (somewhat) logical explanation to this which I'll not expound on here, but the gains I saw on the dyno were largely due to more valve lift, not the reduced motoring friction of the moving parts.
crazy
im curious as to the year(s) you worked on that rocker geometry project.

the reduced lift was an attempt at emissions? what would prompt Ford to do that. i cant imagine it an oversight or error, but your discovery leads me to believe it was .

can it be truly stated that Ford as an embedded policy habitually kept lift modest, as an engineering policy? each mfgr had its built in quirks or eccentricity, was this one of fords? to keep lift modest.
im trying to think of a mopar AMC or gm quirk that is relative..... engineering they did consistently across models and different platforms or engines
 

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER

5K+
VIP
Supporter 2021
Supporter 2020
Supporter 2018
Happy New Year.

I was the dynamometer performance development engineer on the Fox bodied 5.0 GT V8 program from its inception in the late 70s through the late 80s, when I moved on to the new Modular V8 program. [My,my, how time flies...lots of good and humorous memories]

I did the rocker arm study in the early '80s, during the roller cam development period which was slated for the '85 GT, the last of the Holley carbed engines. We were looking to reduce friction in many ways to improve engine efficiency. These ways included low friction valve trains, low friction ring packs, lighter weight lubes, and other similar stuff. Ford historically rated their rocker arm ratios based on the instantaneous rocker arm ratio at the midpoint of the valve lift of the cam that was in use at the time the rocker arm was designed. This makes sense since at the midpoint of the lift the rocker lever arm will be at right angles to the valve stem, where the multiplication would be the greatest. Just because the instantaneous ratio at the mid-point is 1.5:1 does not mean the maximum lift at the valve will be 1.5 times the lobe lift. (Try that experiment on your next cam install with the stamped rocker arm. I guarantee the valve lift will be less than advertised and clearance-to-coil-bind will be greater.)
The rocker arm was not redesigned for the 5.0 GT - it was carry over. The ratio was based off the early, standard issue milder cam. So lets say the earlier standard V8 cam had a lift of .400" and the hipo GT cam had a lift of .500" (I've forgotten the real specs, it was likely less, but for the sake of discussion and keeping the math simple call it .4 vs .5.) That would mean the rocker arm had a ratio of 1.5:1 at .200" valve lift. Clearly that is not the midpoint of the GT cam but the budget did not call for a new rocker arm to match the GT lift profile.
When I looked at rollerizing the rocker I bought several brands to try on the dyno. That was a lot quicker and cheaper than designing our own. To our surprise the performance gains were more than could be explained just by the reduction in motoring friction, which was measured. At first I thought the stamped rocker arm may be distorting and flexing with a more aggressive and higher lift GT cam. But then I plotted valve lift vs lobe lift for all the brands. All the aftermarket brands raised the valve higher. So either the aftermarket rates its ratios in a different way, or more likely looked at the Ford stamping and decided to go more aggressively on the ratio. Of course we did design our own roller CAM to meet the performance criteria we wanted using the stamped rocker arm.
As a side note I have a reverse engineered flat tappet hydraulic cam in one of my hot rods that closely matches the roller cam lift profile. Nice!
Ever since then I've tried to use aftermarket roller rockers whenever the budget will allow. I even put together a 300 recently with roller rockers using the original pressed in studs and Crane cam, yet to be installed, break-in tested only.

So it wasn't any emissions conspiracy. It was a "follow the money" thing. New rocker arms for every cam profile Ford used over the years were never in the budget.
 
Last edited:

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER

5K+
VIP
Supporter 2021
Supporter 2020
Supporter 2018
can it be truly stated that Ford as an embedded policy habitually kept lift modest, as an engineering policy? each mfgr had its built in quirks or eccentricity, was this one of fords? to keep lift modest.
NO
Ford builds cars for the masses. You can't please everyone. Look at all the posts on here regarding "How does your (my) exhaust sound?" or "How does this cam lope at idle?"
YAWN
What manufacturers like Ford do is try to please the most number of potential customers. There will be folks at either end of the extreme who will want more. Some will want the car as smooth as an electric motor. Others will want a lumpy, raspy, caged tiger idle quality.
I once had a supervisor who was so proud his guys got the 4.2 V8 to idle so smoothly he took a picture of a nickle balanced edgewise on the hood while it was idling in Drive.
YAWN again
At another seminar I listened to a guy expound on how engineering changes on his engine brought the idle smoothness up from a 7.8 rating to an 8.3. I asked if I was the only guy in the room that remembers hoodlum hot rodder wannabes who used to pull a spark plug wire off when going to the drive-in for burgers just so the car would have a lope that sounded like a big cammed engine. You have to tailor the engine qualities to meet the projected market. In the case of the GT program we did just that with a throaty dual exhaust and a roller cam to match. Of course the rest is history. It became "the '55 Chevy" of the '80s.
 

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER

5K+
VIP
Supporter 2021
Supporter 2020
Supporter 2018
One more suggestion: If you use roller rockers stick some small powerful magnets around the head drain back holes to catch the broken needles before they reach the sump.
Lifter gallery too.
 

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER

5K+
VIP
Supporter 2021
Supporter 2020
Supporter 2018
One more suggestion: If you use roller rockers stick some small powerful magnets around the head drain back holes to catch the broken needles before they reach the sump.
Lifter gallery too.
Also useful to catch slivers of retainers, an errant keeper, broken (inner) valve spring coils, failed pushrod tips and other assorted filings - even if you don't use roller rocker arms.
 

Frank

Well-known member
Supporter 2021
yes but, the arp i would need have a 5/16" top for the scorpion rollers, the appropriate scorpion model currently available has a 5/16" spec. for its roller 1.73 ratio spc 1059 and of course summits site just went down....
If you decide on Scorpion 1059, get them directly from Scorpion. Summit told me backordered. Scorpion web site- ordered, here in 3 days and saved $70 over Summit.
 

sdiesel

1K+
VIP
first, thank you for this expose'
the mystery of how things get a final design i have pondered often.
even to the production engineers who figure out how to assemble things- fascinating.

the magnet is a scary idea- that i should actually need one is even a harder thing to contemplate.

so next questiin
F ord must have studied carefully the roller and asked themselves how they could make them last.
how did they do that and was that outsourced to shops specializing in rollers?


how could they be reasonably sure a roller would hit 100k and not come back for warranty?

i drove , for a while as a young man the lincoln mkvii i believe, in 1983-4 . a marvelous car for the time. it had rollers so i was later told.
the smooth ride ,performance , and acceleration appealed to me, and im no hot rod high speed junky like my father who bought every fast car he could afford.
the most recent being a genesis something. that car is terrifying after the transmission finally gets into gear.
i find myself, just like in his lexus's cowering on the floor in the back seat while he and my batshitt crazy brother , howl " Yippee!!! and cackle and shout " theres 110, hit 120! " on public streets mind you. then they look over their shoulder and shout derisions at me!!!!

i believe i was mistakenly born into a family of maniacs.
" how fast is fast? not fast enuf" thats what i grew up with. my father would race wheelbarrows if he thot he had a chance of winning, he would foot race a skunk, he would jump out a window if he thought he could get to the ground floor quicker than i could taking the stairs. sheesh
 
Last edited:

pmuller9

5K+
VIP
Supporter 2018
Supporter 2021
the magnet is a scary idea- that i should actually need one is even a harder thing to contemplate.
The object is to use a roller rocker that has a high load rating then use it at a small percentage of that rating.

Our SBF turbo engine had valve lifts over .900" and spring pressures over 1000lbs.
The intake rocker ratio was 1.9 and 1.8 on the exhaust so the load on the trunnion needle bearings at 8500 rpm was HUGH.
In the several years of running the engine we never had a rocker arm needle bearing failure. That's not to say it doesn't happen.
We did snap the pushrod end off a Jesel exhaust valve rocker arm because of the amount of pressure it takes to open an exhaust valve against the cylinder pressure of a turbo engine operating at 35 lbs of boost.

The only time we saw a needle bearing failure was on a roller lifter on a different engine.
Now we use the Isky bushing bearing roller lifters and have not had a problem since.

Also consider that the after market roller rocker arms are designed to handle the very high shock loads of a mechanical roller cam.
When used with a mild street hydraulic cam where the valves are lifted gently the shock loads on the needle bearings are very low.
 
Last edited:

sdiesel

1K+
VIP
update.
as of Sunday the cold temps eased somewhat, the forklift cooperated, the snows ceased, and the rains waited a day before arriving, so i got some work done.
In these projects the mind tetters between looking fondly at progress made, and dismay at the distance to go.
Only solution? pick up a tool and do something. In this build, planning is critical - and easy.

we/ are, I / am building an entire truck so first things must come first. There is no way to go in any other order.
What ive done is stich things together in a temporary manner; no bolts tightened or welds made that close off a reverse route to back out of if i find ive overlooked something.
This raises a different set of problems: remembering all i have left undone, and to retrace and address them.

Lists, pictures, and of course dealing with the irritation of not having completely " done" with a section of work, leaves a nagging suspicion of incompletion.
i just must focus and remember .
example. the hubs which are very very heavy on a dually, need come off again to replace wheel bearings and races when they arrive, so thats a major revisit..

the frame horns are um, kinda finished.
i still intend to box them with the frame horns off the other truck, so i dont complete that for a very long time from now. i must actually schedule the deconstruction of that truck which is weather dependant.....

the SKY system i generally would not recommend unless you are handy with metal fab as we are.

i used rear shackles only and may move past those eventually. using roller shackles in the front and fords stationary rear spring hanger.

this weekend the progress made was on the engine. this is 180 degrees from my previous tactic: everything done, needs to be done right and finished up completely before moving on .
example , the rear main seal gave me a fit , but there is no temp fix for that. im embarrassed to admit how much time that took, due to lack of proper driver.

cam change, ive decided to use the factory grind cam. not a big issue, really except i ruin a timing cover gasket and the time necessary to pull the Schneider cam. Nothing really except i have to remember which are the 240 cams and which are the 300 sitting in the shelf.

Transmission is mostly in. waiting on a slave cylinder.
i gave my crossmember to tony for project he had going. a dunderheaded move as i need it now....
But now, i can measure up for rear driveline and pick from a pile on a pallet, the front i will need.

Front steering parts arrived on sunday, as did christmas gifts i ordered for my adult twin girls, naturally a week late. the drag link gets paint to protect, waiting only now on center link.
tie rod ends are here new steering box in and mounted
its the dam spring kit that still buggers.
a major hold up.

After trans is in and tight i can turn the frame around in shop and nose it in, this for two reasons front will then be closer to wood stove but closer too to the wood floor of the shop and remaining work on front does not include flame or spark.
So on the concrete section at the roll up door where cutting , grinding, welding will not chance to light the floor in fire, i will begin cutting off the rear suspension to replace with the GM springs. a pretty simple job really, just time consuming, but no trickery or sub par parts. should be done by end of week.

also , important lesson learned: if there is available talent, hire out the work.
the front axle set us back 4 weeks, two from eric being sick and two from no parts / tools.
a gear man re- bearinged in 3 hours.

rear axle goes in to the gear man when the frame gets turned, to get bearings in the same manner as front.

assembly of engine comes next, and in there somewhere i need begin disassemble the donor truck
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20220102_183641_01.jpg
    IMG_20220102_183641_01.jpg
    2.5 MB · Views: 6
  • PXL_20220103_022328865.jpg
    PXL_20220103_022328865.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 6
  • PXL_20220103_022321772.jpg
    PXL_20220103_022321772.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 6
  • PXL_20220103_022236776.jpg
    PXL_20220103_022236776.jpg
    2.3 MB · Views: 6
  • PXL_20220103_022259124.jpg
    PXL_20220103_022259124.jpg
    1.9 MB · Views: 6
  • IMG_20220102_174759_01.jpg
    IMG_20220102_174759_01.jpg
    2.5 MB · Views: 6
  • PXL_20220103_022304925.jpg
    PXL_20220103_022304925.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 6
  • PXL_20220103_002651467.jpg
    PXL_20220103_002651467.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 6
Last edited:

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER

5K+
VIP
Supporter 2021
Supporter 2020
Supporter 2018
...cam change, ive decided to use the factory grind cam. not a big issue, really except i ruin a timing cover gasket and the time necessary to pull the Schneider cam. Nothing really except i have to remember which are the 240 cams and which are the 300 sitting in the shelf...
If you're talking stock cams the 240 and the 300 cams have the same events.

I once looked at all the Ford cam blueprints. They all had the same lobes. While the part numbers changed over the years the only difference I remember was the adv/ret.
It is best to degree it where you want it.
 

sdiesel

1K+
VIP
update:

today, fool with that mess of a spring swap in front. this time our fault. after mounting the plates, getting the axle in the center of the frame front to rear, longitudinal speaking; directly beneath shock towers and bump stops, i lifted the radiator support on.
uh- oh.
interference.
ok pull inner plates, and take them to rework them , not a big deal, but a deal nonetheless.

rain like its gonna float the ark. a gully washer.

dreary, depressing as this is a job, not a hobby, and i want this pig under its own power- yesterday.

...Worked thru the rear AAM axle, cause im stalled on the front. It has the gov lo c carrier. fair enuf. clear that it was the first time the cover had been off this differential since new in 2006.
Gov- loc carrier appears good,
and very satisfactory for my needs.

all appears to be in good cond, it will get new bearings to keep it that way.
the costs associated with reman of a gov loc are chilling. The yokels on the muddy truck forums sneer at the gov loc but its a fine choice for daily commute.
this axle is expensive. there is no part that is affordable, including the axle itself. Try to find a cab chassis spec axle..... good luk with that. They are solid and have great brakes.

i began to remove rear suspension hangers in anticipation of the GM Spring swap.
Removing rivets.
sigh.tedious work
i have a very good method that is effective:
A rosebud on propane, and an air chisel produce remarkable result and quickly.
one overload bracket ( shown): 5 minutes, done.
its now nearly 8 pm, I'm on fire watch here for a bit longer, then wrap for tonite.
handling torch and chisel and camera is a bit much, even for me
My technique is to super heat the rivet as quickly as possible, and holding the flame near , hit it with chisel in the other hand . The chisel will dance around some so if you lay into it with body weight be careful to not tumble when the chisel skips out, especially since i keep the torch lit, promising disaster were it to come in contact with skin.
even better : two people, but i dint have an extra" people".
When rivet heads are cut off , cool the chisel and proceed to chisel the mount free.
a narrow chisel works better to seperate the mount from the frame, especially if its fat chisel. but this broad paint scraper chisel is what i had. using just half the chisel works very nicely.
mount , when free from frame leaves 4 nubs. chisel them off with heat in the same manner, and, if you will not reuse the holes , leave the rivets in there. they only enhance and do not detract.grind, buff and paint.

the GM. spring hangers look like they are made for this frame
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20220106_030716229.jpg
    PXL_20220106_030716229.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 4
  • IMG_20220105_192251_01.jpg
    IMG_20220105_192251_01.jpg
    2.1 MB · Views: 5
  • PXL_20220106_030827761.jpg
    PXL_20220106_030827761.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 5
  • PXL_20220106_031606144.jpg
    PXL_20220106_031606144.jpg
    1.9 MB · Views: 5
  • IMG_20220105_192251_01.jpg
    IMG_20220105_192251_01.jpg
    2.1 MB · Views: 4
  • PXL_20220106_032033377.jpg
    PXL_20220106_032033377.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 4
  • PXL_20220106_032712257.jpg
    PXL_20220106_032712257.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 2
Last edited:

sdiesel

1K+
VIP
update
this spring shackle swap kit is the gift that keeps on giving....endlessly. now with eric industrial strength front spring hangers in place finished and tightened down, we have developed a different issue.
this is now ticklish:
ford had one idea, that we wanted an improvement upon, specifically upgrade to better ride.
SKY had their idea, and we hoped their engineering was accurate, and finally we had our own improvisations.
now, we learn that the dimension between springs as measured front and then rear, is nearly 3/4" difference.
the wider being in front. so now we have no point of reference as there have been so many changes.
are the hangers; n front too wide? in the rear too narrow? can i shim one or the other? what then of the axle? it is not relative to the width dimension, or is it?.
do i drop the axle and remeasure without the restraint of the centering pins ?
i do know one frame horn is out of whack, but how? do i pivot the springs on the axle housing to bring them into dimensional consistency?
oh fun and joy

new pmgr starter ordered from the best shop turns out to be wrong. next monday....

bearing cups arrive for front hubs, but no sight of the bearings and seals.

the fellas ( two) at napa ffound me 9/16-18 bolts at a different napa store in the system. i bought 6 , they delivered 4. there were 7 available.....

clutch release bearing arrives without its outer sleeve- useless. closest one in napa is seattle at 50.00

pulled axles in the rear axle. the rear axle gets bearings and AAM helical limited slip contraption.
its on a fed ex truck somewhere

did have a delightful conversation with tony. at which time and by the edict of eric it was decided the 67 cab was going on this frame. whoa! now.
this is a horse of a different color. a cab of a different color anyway for sure. so now the goals have changed and im hopelessly lost in the swirl.

ok what about clutch master? " easy, wilwood makes them to integrate with bellcrank pedal, taking advantage of the added force multiplyer and a remote reservoir". came the answer

ok, what about t case. i dont wanna cut up a good floor? " easy tonys truck parts has 4x floor panels."

i could think of no other objections so i humbly nodded in assent.
so here we go.
"and beside that why would you want to cut up a perfectly good donor truck to build this one"?
no good answer to that one.

changing horses of a different color in midstream - to mix a metaphor.

so now if that never ending spring shackle issue ever gets resolved, (and the overall appearance does look very good if we can get the engineering right)

we will have
a 67 cab on an 88 frame. (with gm axle dana axle a german transmission, american t case and good ol ford power) DMV gives me a title with frame (handy as i have no title for the 67 cab).
a 300 six with the factory cam, cnc head, some bbc rollers efi exhaust, very soon a turbo and who knows what else b4 we are done- a truck built by committee, and im definately not in charge.
but like a plane trip you pays your ticket and takes your chances
oh and ordered aluminum for flatbed today .
god knows when we will get to that ....

love my rivet shaving technique as i have become very rapid at this. i rolled the chassis away from the wood floor( catapulting a drink and a hammer that had been sitting on a tire)
and shave the remaining rivets on the rear suspension. cleaned up scattered tools , love doing that.
organized my ever growing collection of grade 8 flange bolts into seperate piles, smiling oily black,
Im becoming quite fond of this collection, it gives me a weird pride about having fasteners for the job.
a note on that and embarrassing one at that.

some time ago i sorted and separated fasteners for this project by body , and engine. cleaned them , some with muratic acid, oiled them, separated them into zip locs, marked them as to their purpose- and lost them.

i did put them away against the day i will need them ( today), and now i cannot find them in this fantastic mess

everything thing has a place in this space.
its just that there is too much everything in too little space.

i can lay a hand on any tool in a fraction, assuming i put it away, but if in a moment of absent mindedness i set down the dewalt ( bright friggin yellow for godsake) somewhere , i might go looking for it for ten minutes.

AND NOW I CANT FIND MY NEATLY SORTED CAREFULLY PACKAGED COLLECTION OF FASTENERS TO FINISH THIS WRETCHED JOB!!!!
Id quit this job if i werent the boss and the only employee.
 
Last edited:

sdiesel

1K+
VIP
update.
rear suspension
is going as smoothly as front did not.
the rear springs are from a 2006 d max cab chassis.

the install has gone very smoothly after our usual arguing and griping about each others desired approach to doing the job.
Eric , a far superior mechanic, fabricator, and knowledge base than i, gets aggravated at me for being so dense. but sometimes i prevail and this is one of those times.
knock off the ford hangers and springs, mount the gm onto the axle. leaving the opposite side spring intact to hold axle into position then mount the hangers accordingly.

first is ford spring ambulance package. no idea why the call it that. any severely injured patient riding in an ambulance with these springs would surely be dead or in much worse shape than when his voyage began with these springs.
other pics are general and self explanatory.

the interesting outcome is that with the GM springs mounted right where the axle wanted them to be, the frame sat dead level between front and rear as measured at mid point.
happy coincidence.
pardon the mess, progress cannot always be measured in tidy steps.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20220108_194003_01.jpg
    IMG_20220108_194003_01.jpg
    2.4 MB · Views: 6
  • IMG_20220108_194003_02.jpg
    IMG_20220108_194003_02.jpg
    2.3 MB · Views: 6
  • IMG_20220108_194003_03.jpg
    IMG_20220108_194003_03.jpg
    2.2 MB · Views: 6
  • IMG_20220108_193917_01.jpg
    IMG_20220108_193917_01.jpg
    2.4 MB · Views: 6
  • IMG_20220108_193917_02.jpg
    IMG_20220108_193917_02.jpg
    2.2 MB · Views: 6
  • IMG_20220108_193828_01.jpg
    IMG_20220108_193828_01.jpg
    2.3 MB · Views: 7
  • IMG_20220108_192705_01.jpg
    IMG_20220108_192705_01.jpg
    2.2 MB · Views: 6
  • IMG_20220108_192149_01.jpg
    IMG_20220108_192149_01.jpg
    2.3 MB · Views: 7
Top