Cam recommendations

johneo

New member
Hello and I hope all is well.
Been a while since posting as my older son somehow managed to take the 65 mustang to college a few years ago. The good news is he graduated and the mustang somehow survived. We are now doing a pretty major rebuild and looking for input and recommendations on camshaft selection.

Previously, we have done the following
- had to replace head due to broken ears on #1 and #6 exhaust flanges. Replaced with 1967 head and did recommended 3-angle valve job per the Handbook
- Installed 2 barrel Weber DGEV Progressive carb
- Installed 2” diameter headers
- Installed electronic ignition from Bill and timing advanced 18 degrees

We have just finished bottom end rebuild with .030 oversized pistons and plasma-moly rings.
Have also ordered and received the following from Vintage Inlines - ARP head studs, reconditioned harmonic balancer, dual roller timing chain and graph-form header gasket

Cylinder head combustion chamber volume measured at 45cc and based on deck height, gasket thickness, etc, calculated the combustion ratio = 8.88.

We have a T5 from Modern Drivelines that will be going in and mated up to a rebuilt 9” rear end from a 57 Ranchero with a 3.89 gear ratio.

We are not planning on taking it the drag strip and it will be a weekend or occasional daily driver.
We are looking for much better acceleration off the line and when downshifting to pass. We are not too worried about the top end since will have overdrive for highway.

The one thing I know is that we don’t want to put a stock cam back in! What would you recommend?
Thanks in advance and have a great day.
 
Schneider Camshaft 262-70H Ford 144-250 Hydraulic Lifter Camshaft. This might be a good choice.
To be sure call Jerry @ Schneider Cams.
Clay Smith offers a 264 Camshaft. However be very careful on their product, cause they just changed the 264 lobe profile,
The original was a 264 with an advertised .214 @ .050 ground straight up.
They have a second edition out that has 211 degrees & .050 & with 4 degrees advanced.
They also have another 264 with 207 @ .050 with 4 degrees advanced.
Thats why i would go with the Schneider. Also get the valve springs they recommend.
Ford 302 springs have no damper in their spring. Less expensive, but not recommended.
 
Hi wsa111 - Thanks for the recommendation and suggestion to contact Jerry. He confirmed this selection and cam has been ordered.

Pmuller9 - I will be replacing the valve springs since it’s been three years since the head was rebuilt and I do not know what type of springs were used. WHat would you recommend?

Thanks again.
 
Make sure that you pull the pin on the old cam and then remove the cam spacer... Install spacer on new cam with the inside bevel toward the cam journal...The cam spacer can not be bought, the pin can be...Also you must degree these engines and best to do before installing the head...The parts to do so are not that expensive.
 
Thanks for the info and recommendation for the cam installation. I just checked the spacer from the old cam and it is only a flat washer with no bevill. I’m afraid to ask but this this going to cause a problem on the new cam and installation? Should I try to machine a bevil into this thick flat washer and does nayone have the dimensions or a drawing available?

For the valve springs, Jerry at Schneider Racing Cmas recommended their Part number 68030 springs with 85/95 closed 260/280 open.

Next step for tomorrow is to work on the rocker arm assembly - plan to take it apart, clean it and open up the oil holes on the valve side to 1/8” per info in Falcon Handbook. Any advice or words of wisdom for this so that I’m not :banghead:
Thanks
 
johneo":3v86ukjo said:
Thanks for the info and recommendation for the cam installation. I just checked the spacer from the old cam and it is only a flat washer with no bevel. I’m afraid to ask but this this going to cause a problem on the new cam and installation? Should I try to machine a bevel into this thick flat washer and does anyone have the dimensions or a drawing available?
hr9Uq6x.jpg

Its here on the forum.
viewtopic.php?f=106&p=635160#p635160
 
Hello, Got some good news to report and some questions to ask.
Good news, actually I’d say GRTEAT NEWS - Cam, springs and keepers have been delivered from Schneider Racing Cams. Thanks for the lead and connection to Jerry Cantrell - great guy and he confirmed your recommendation of the 260-70H cam. Our local engine builder also located a wedding ring for me the day after I ordered one from eBay. Will measure the ring once it arrives and let everyone know if it meets dimensions from Bill’s drawing.

After installing the cam, wedding ring, pin and thrust plate, it is time to install the performance billet gears set purchased from Vintage Inlines.

Here’s the question - should the key way in the cam gear fit all the way over the pin in the camshaft? Currently, it stops right at the centerline of the pin. The pin is 0.254” diameter and the key way is 0.252” wide. Is it ok to torque the cam gear down to spec of 42-45 ft-lbs and that this as an interference fit? Or should I put the cam sprocket in the oven and warm it up to 200-250 to see if that increases the key way width enough to push it on? Or should I do something else?

Pics of the front and side views of the cam gear follow as a reference.
62625174-08B6-4E99-89FE-1238A0133C43.jpeg

8E063ECE-19A6-4F6D-999B-0FF0EC09284E.jpeg

Look forward to your recommendations as we just want to get this right and then we will degree the cam.
Thanks for the help.
 
I would put some emory cloth on a file & just debur the sharp edges of the gear. If you can get it down closer to .001" then bolt it on.
 
Stock is not interference fit...snug is good but not if you have to heat it or force it on with heavy bolt pressure...You may have to get it back off to degree it a couple of times...make sure that the pin is not too tall...Maybe clean up the sprocket some with a small file and if you have a bolt that turns in easy , try pulling on with the bolt, go easy if too tight remove and file some more.
When finished with the degreeing I would loc-tight the bolt, medium should work fine for what you are doing.
Bill posted as is I was typing and I concur.
 
x3 If all the parts are within spec they should go together real easy, with no need to hammer or pull it on with the bolt. Good luck :nod:
 
Thank you all for the input and comments.
After two or three hours working with Emory paper and sanding block (and trying to be patient), the cam gear now has a snug fit.

We just degreed the cam and we did indeed have to take the cam and crank gears off to make adjustments so very glad that we didn’t do anything excessively stupid by forcing the cam gear on. But now, the cam is dead on with the cam card with the intake lobe at 108* at .050” lift. (schneider cam 262-70H)

Tonight, it’ll be the harmonic damper, oil pump and hopefully oil pan. Then the 9” rear end from a 57 Ranchero with 3.89 gears and trac lock limited slip.

The engine shop is working on the 2V conversion and hopefully, will be finished by the second week of the January.

Once again, appreciate the input and support - y’all have have really helped make this easier.
I’m sure we will have more questions as keep on keepin’on.
Happy New Year.
:beer:
 
"...the 2V conversion..."
if happy w/it B sure to list the co in our "Machinists & Mechanics" forum for local folks (if horrably done a listing helps others avoid a similar fate as well).

I'd luv ta C a pic or 3 (top eye level both sides) as we don't havea lot of them (C the search function, tech archive for 1/2 doz).I think Matt's and X's are duplicates of all these so more is beddah !

Y the old model rear end (correct length?) and so heavy (an 8 or 8.8 seem plenty)?
Of interest:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ri2OEKhD08c
 
An 8" would be a lot lighter than the 9".
Chad likes the 8.8, but might require some involved machine work.
The 8" as well as the 9" has interchangeable 3rd members.
However the 8.8" will not rob as much power as the 8" because of less hypoid entrance of the input shaft.
 
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Good afternoon,

For the 9" rear end, the price was right (free) and we knew it would fit right up.

Will definitely share pics of the 2V work on the head when we pick it up and before install. Hopefully, will be picking it up in the next week or so.

After installing the front cover and damper, we started to rotate the engine by hand and heard an undesirable high pitched pinging sound. It appears that the oil slinger is interfering with the timing chain and occasionally catches the side of the chain. Picture attached and pointer is showing where it is catching the chain. Just found several threads where folks say not to install the oil slinger. Is this correct? Assuming it is, guess we'll be pulling the damper back off and all that good stuff - but would rather fix it now instead of later.

Appreciate the input.
Thanks
 
operator error - picture included this time.
Guess I'm a bit tuned up about this interference with the oil slinger... :banghead:
 

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Yep due to the much wider double roller timing chain / gear set you can no longer use the orginal oil slinger, just remove the slinger and you will be good to go. (y) :nod:
 
"...share pics of the 2V work on the head when we pick it up and before install..."
thank you for thinkin of us (me).
Hope we can B helpful right thru the soon-coming 1st 500 mi !

BTW: plez enter the company's name in our form for "local mechanics'n machinists". U usta say "if good" but now I add -"also if they were particularly horrible" (differences of opinion don;t count on the 'bad end' - [my guy]). That can help our "brothers-in-6".
 
bubba22349":1w9sh930 said:
Yep due to the much wider double roller timing chain / gear set you can no longer use the orginal oil slinger, just remove the slinger and you will be good to go. (y) :nod:
X2, A fresh new seal would be a good idea ...Ford quit putting the oil slinger on later engines.
Our bad for not telling you to not use the slinger if you had one. :oops:
 
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