I finally got my 200 started after 12 years of never being started. Thanks to this forum. It starts right up, which suprised me. It idles just fine but when you give it throttle it cuts out and dies. I have also noticed that the automatic choke does not function. If you hold the choke closed it allows you to rev the engine up. It's a single barrel holley carb (1940 i think). Does anyone have any suggestions?
Carburetor Help
- Thread starter brettstang
- Start date
Are you sure you got good clean gas? And good fuel pressure? 12 years is a long time for rubber parts to sit. The check valves in the pumps get stiff and dont like to seal.
- I have no idea where the accelerator pump is located. Do you know of any online carb diagrams that could help me locate this stuff.
-- I put a new gas tank in and new gas. I also blew out the gas line. I have gas to the fuel pump, and gas to the carb. So I don't think that is the problem.
I'm not mechanic, but it seems like the choke should be shut untill the engine is warm right?
-- I put a new gas tank in and new gas. I also blew out the gas line. I have gas to the fuel pump, and gas to the carb. So I don't think that is the problem.
I'm not mechanic, but it seems like the choke should be shut untill the engine is warm right?
The pump varies depending on the carb model and you have at least 3 common options for an early 200 and a few or the late ones. Numbers or pictures would help.
For the choke take that round black cover off (should be held on with 3 screws) and see what things look like inside. There should be a coil spring in there with a hook on the end. THis would be true for an electric or air heated choke. This hook pushes onto or hooks on a little crank arm in the back of the housing that eventually connects to the choke butterfly. The spring could be broke or sometimes people put them together wrong so the little hook is on the wrong side of the crank. Things should be nice and clean in there, if its all carboned up you have an issue with the exhaust manifold and its sucking exhaust which makes a mess of things.
For the choke take that round black cover off (should be held on with 3 screws) and see what things look like inside. There should be a coil spring in there with a hook on the end. THis would be true for an electric or air heated choke. This hook pushes onto or hooks on a little crank arm in the back of the housing that eventually connects to the choke butterfly. The spring could be broke or sometimes people put them together wrong so the little hook is on the wrong side of the crank. Things should be nice and clean in there, if its all carboned up you have an issue with the exhaust manifold and its sucking exhaust which makes a mess of things.
Before you touch the carb, GET THE DISTRIBUTOR RIGHT!!!!
Distributor problems and carb problems have the same symptoms. You'll drive yourself to drink dorking around with the carb and the car will never run right if the distributor is out of wack.
Here is what you should do in order: First, buy a Factory Shop Manual (FSM) for your car and year. All the following steps are described in the FSM. Second, set the dwell correctly in the dizzy. Third, start the car, let it idle up to temp and set the initial timing without any vacuum source to the dizzy. Make sure the vacuum hoses are plugged to do this step. Lastly, connect up the vac hose and verify that the advance works (rev the car with the timing light on and see that the timing mark advances on the pulley). If the timing does not advance find out why.
What you described can be caused by the intial timing being too high. A rough idle can be caused by the dwell is too short, which can lead to stumbling or the engine stalling out.
Distributor problems and carb problems have the same symptoms. You'll drive yourself to drink dorking around with the carb and the car will never run right if the distributor is out of wack.
Here is what you should do in order: First, buy a Factory Shop Manual (FSM) for your car and year. All the following steps are described in the FSM. Second, set the dwell correctly in the dizzy. Third, start the car, let it idle up to temp and set the initial timing without any vacuum source to the dizzy. Make sure the vacuum hoses are plugged to do this step. Lastly, connect up the vac hose and verify that the advance works (rev the car with the timing light on and see that the timing mark advances on the pulley). If the timing does not advance find out why.
What you described can be caused by the intial timing being too high. A rough idle can be caused by the dwell is too short, which can lead to stumbling or the engine stalling out.
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