catalog of conceptual build plans for the b.b.ford sticky

pmuller9

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This is the classic long rod 300 build using the 240 connecting rod with the 300 crank.
The plan was to produce 325 hp at 5500 rpm. Unfurtunately I moved from WA state before having the opportunity to dyno the engine.
The owner reports plenty of torque from 1200 rpm and 18 mpg @ 70 mph highway (2400 rpm) and 15 around town. 1977 2wd pickup, T18 tranny.

I will try to keep this post compact by using links instead of imbedded pictures.

Addition block prep included removal of sand/iron lumps and pockets in the crankcase.
Grind away all casting lines including the cam tunnel and main webs.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/s6u3h61cke7kf ... 6.jpg?raw=1
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qjh45e9hdbtd2 ... 7.jpg?dl=0
Lunatic Fringe added the very nice porting of the oil passages in the filter mount that's not included on this engine.
viewtopic.php?p=613172#p613172

The 1985 carb head had Chevy 2.02" intake and 1.60" exhaust valves, 4.910" length along with porting.
Combustion chambers were finished out to 77cc
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hoxt81l1paszf ... t.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pycdq6q58ecd0 ... t.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5t7b6y8h5vdpu ... r.JPG?dl=0

Heads were drilled and tapped for 7/16" rocker studs.
Comp 1826-12, 1.6 ratio roller rockers
The head valve spring seats were machined to fit Comp 994-12 double valve springs. Installed height 1.665"
.530" metal clad Viton valve seals.
Adjustable pushrod guild plates were welded on a 1.940" center.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hw9cogn2posft ... 2.JPG?dl=0
Manton 4 Series 5/16" x .118 wall, 10.290" long pushrods.

1965-1968 240 connecting rods forging number C5AE
Polished, shot peened and resized with ARP rod bolts.
AutoTec 4.040" pistons, 1.190" pin height, .912" pins and 10cc round dish. 9.75 compression ratio.
Piston and pin weight reduced from stock 819 grams to 574 grams.
BWE zero gap rings
https://www.dropbox.com/s/h5rwpzcctzeew ... 8.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/k9u6bhvzw0p5w ... 0.jpg?dl=0

Jones Cam, Hydraulic F300-I6, H72334, L/C 112
232/232 .050" duration, 288/288 advertised duration, .534" valve lift. 112 LSA
Jones J875H lifters

Clifford intake manifold with Quick Fuel HR-650 carb. (I preffer the new Offenhauser 4 barrel intake but at that time I found the used Clifford manifold cheap)
Hedman headers
MSD 6AL ignition

Sitting on the run-in stand waiting for the Manton pushrods and MSD coil. Break in with outer valve springs only.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/h5jmi733n0q96 ... 6.JPG?dl=0
 
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pmuller9

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Just a note on "Off the shelf" catalog cams for the 300 six.

If you look through the cam listings above in post #6 you will notice a big gap in .050" durations once you get past 220 degrees.
Unfortunately performance street cams for the 300 six with a ported head are actually in the 230 degree range which directs you to a custom cam.
Fortunately a custom cam can now be had for a few dollars more than a catalog grind.

This is the reason for the custom Jones cam in the above build.
 

bubba22349

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:nod: your welcome pmuller9, I also think it will be great to have all this info in one place!
 

pmuller9

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Just a quick update on available on least expensive forged pistons and pricing for the Ford six.

AutoTec pistons are forged 4032 aluminum alloy.
The alloy is eutectic with around a 12% silicon content so it is durable and keeps a low expansion rate.
The AutoTec pistons are made to order and come with wrist pins that are fitted to the piston.
A flat top piston is $525 for a set of six and $562.50 for a set of dish pistons.
http://racetecpistons.com/pages/autotec.php

For those that want the strongest piston for Turbocharging, Supercharging and Nitrous or High compression High rpm N/A, BWE offers a 2618 alloy that is heat treated T6.

A flat top piston is $105 each and a reverse dome or dish is $110 each
These pistons DO NOT come with wrist pins. There is a $18 and $30 pin (each) available.
The piston also have the option for a hard anodized friction process for the skirts and a ceramic heat barrier for the top.
Both operations are $40 for each piston.
http://bwepistonrings.com/

As with any custom piston, both AutoTec and BWE pistons allow you to take just a cleanup cut off the block deck and head surface.
The pistons are then ordered with the correct wrist pin height, piston top be it dish, flat or dome to get the needed compression ratio.
You also get to decide on the type of piston rings you want to use and are no longer stuck with the old 5/64" ring set.

We have had great success with the BWE ZGS (gapless) rings.

ZGgraphic.png
 
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BigBlue94

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KB379 pistons for a pre-'71 351w fit stock 300 rods with a bushing in the pin end. My block only needed a few thousandths to get to zero deck.

https://uempistons.com/i-29938-kb-hyper-piston-ford-351w-rod-5-956-step-dish-15cc.html

The piston is a step dish of 15cc. It was designed for the sportsman N head. The step meshes with the chamber deck to give a good quench distance of .04" (at zero deck it's just the gasket thickness)

I haven't fired the engine yet, but it's getting installed today so it wont be long. 9.75 CR with big SI valves, Schneider 140H cam, harland sharp rollers, and a .060" overbore. 450cfm 4bbl, Clifford intake, and long tube headers. I'd like to see 300 hp, but I dont really know.
 

Lunatic Fringe

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A question for the guys using 302/351 Ford pistons. Does the fact that the intake/exhaust valve reliefs are reversed vs a 300 cause any issues? I'll be using Chevy 383 stroker domed pistons with a long alum rod and those will only need a touch of cleanup around the chamber edges.
 

pmuller9

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Lunatic Fringe":23c1tmbp said:
A question for the guys using 302/351 Ford pistons. Does the fact that the intake/exhaust valve reliefs are reversed vs a 300 cause any issues? I'll be using Chevy 383 stroker domed pistons with a long alum rod and those will only need a touch of cleanup around the chamber edges.
Most of the SBF pistons being used in the 300 six street engines are dished and since the 300 doesn't require valve reliefs on non-dome pistons the V8 valve order doesn't matter.

The problems lies with V8 pistons that do not have a symmetrical top and also have an offset wrist pin.
In that case only 4 of the 8 pistons will work in the 300 six.
 

pmuller9

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For those that want to build a very high rpm 240 including turbocharging where the rpm is only limited by the valve train.

Molnar makes a 7.130" long billet rod for the Chevy 292 six that will fit the 240 crank.
The 240 crank journals are turned down to 2.100" and the journals are widened .035" so a generous radius can be formed for extra crank strength.
https://www.12bolt.com/store/p32/292_Bi ... olnar.html



Use a custom forged piston that has a 1.28" CD with a total piston and pin weight under 600 grams and have a screaming six.
 

bubba22349

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I ran across this source for Stainless Steel engine bolt kits, that has listings for many Ford engines including the 240 & 300 Big Six. As a little dress up detail item they have both polished and unpolished Hex head, Allen Head, and Button Heads too. (y) :nod:

http://www.mmsacc-stainless.com/html/ford.htm
 

BigBlue94

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BigBlue94":3rg2dyo5 said:
KB379 pistons for a pre-'71 351w fit stock 300 rods with a bushing in the pin end. My block only needed a few thousandths to get to zero deck.

https://uempistons.com/i-29938-kb-hyper-piston-ford-351w-rod-5-956-step-dish-15cc.html

The piston is a step dish of 15cc. It was designed for the sportsman N head. The step meshes with the chamber deck to give a good quench distance of .04" (at zero deck it's just the gasket thickness)

I haven't fired the engine yet, but it's getting installed today so it wont be long. 9.75 CR with big SI valves, Schneider 140H cam, harland sharp rollers, and a .060" overbore. 450cfm 4bbl, Clifford intake, and long tube headers. I'd like to see 300 hp, but I dont really know.

I have fired this engine up and driven it 2200 miles. While I'm still fine tuning, I can say HP is easily over 200. My econoline, f350, and 94 bronco have all about 200hp and this feels quite a bit more powerful. Feels about like my "140hp chip" 96 7.3L powerstroke. Very pleased. Hope to get it on the dyno in the future.

Couple notes:
The SI valves are the oversized version that they offer for the 300. 1.96 and 1.6 diameters I believe. The bowls were massaged in the head to accommodate them. Also did away with the exhaust valve rotators.

I'm running a DUI HEI distributor.

I do not know what degree the cam was installed at.
 

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER

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BigBlue94":25mb43bz said:
Also did away with the exhaust valve rotators.
Some may question the idea of doing away with the exhaust rotators. They are not a reliable high RPM piece -the directional garter spring tends to shatter and pieces migrate through the engine.
Tearing down a well used 300 head recently I noticed something curious. The exhaust valve springs left a definite impression on the seat and the end of the valve spring left a witness mark that was clearly visible on all the exhaust spring seats. The bottom of the springs was not moving. On the other hand the intake springs left a track that showed the intake springs were clearly revolving around in the spring seats. So my conclusion is that while there may not be a positive rotator on the valve it does indeed revolve as evidenced by the witness marks left by the "ratcheting" valve spring, ensuring even wear and heat dissipation at the valve.

Chuck 'em.
 

Wesman07

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FTF,

Can you elaborate on this a little more? It’s the first I’ve heard of this.

If I’m getting this right, the trick is to remove the rotator (what the spring rotates on) because it breaks under high rpm use?
 

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER

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Yes. It may help if you take one apart to see its guts. Grind the crimp away on the underside of the outer shell and the rotator will come apart in three pieces. You'll see a circular garter spring that looks like it had been squashed by an elephant standing on it. That is the ratchet spring that may break apart and work its way out in little coils of metal shards on their way to your oiling system.

I'm sure someone will do this and post pictures.
 

Wesman07

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Your last two posts has sparked so many questions. I am doing my best to limit them and do as much reading on the topic as possible. Multiple study’s have shown very large temperature differences around the valve seat, which proves the spring is a very effective heat sink. The spring needs to rotate to keep these temperatures consistent. Makes sense.

Here is what I’m having a hard time with.... Rotators are wildly over complicated. A coil spring naturally wants to rotate at one or both ends during compression/extension. It seems like a very slight design change could easily accomplish the same thing with less moving parts. What am I missing?
 

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER

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The garter spring does not rotate per se. The partially squashed spring coils are laid over at an angle. When pressure is exerted on the top of the retainer the spring compresses and then releases, moving the top side of the retainer in relation to the bottom side, slightly rotating the valve each cycle.
 

pmuller9

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There are timing marks on the timing cover which is on the front driver side of the engine and there is a timing tab that bolts to the front passenger side of the timing cover.
Typically the mark on the harmonic balancer lines up with the passenger side timing tab when #1 piston is at TDC.

If you look at your harmonic balancer from the front with the keyway straight up, if the mark is to the left of the keyway then it will use the timing tab bolted to the passenger side .
If the mark is to the right of the keyway it will use the marks cast in the timing cover on the driver side.

While the cylinder head is off, bring #1 piston to TDC and see where the mark on the harmonic balancer is.
If the mark is at the passenger side tab, fine tune the alignment with the timing tab and brighten the mark on the balancer with white paint.
You have the option of making a line on the balancer that aligns with the driver side cover marks.
 

sdiesel

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this from pmuller9: update on rod combos


It has become apparent that the early 240 rods are becoming extinct and the need for a reliable performance connecting rod continues to increase.
I'm not sure how the following combination has escaped attention except to say that the addition of another Chevy part in the beloved 300 six may have struck fear and caused clouded vision.

There was a previous discussion in DEC of 2018 where a custom 6.430" long rod would accommodate a lot of the Chevy 350 V8 pistons.
viewtopic.php?p=612046#p612046

As you may know the Chevy LS rod Does Not have an offset beam as does the earlier generation SBC engines.
Eagle carries LS rods in 6.460" and 6.560" lengths for a 2.100" rod journal. CRS6460O3DL19 and CRS6560O3D2000
These two lengths give access to many of Chevy 350 pistons.
Image

What is up for discussion (among other things)is the fact that the LS rod is .940" wide at the big end and the 300 rod is as wide as .992" at the big end.
That difference adds .052" to the rod's side play clearance.
So let's say the total side play clearance ends up being .070"
IMO it will not matter since oil pressure is determined by bearing clearance.
If the OCD group is still uncomfortable with that much possible side movement, they can shim the small end within the piston to limit rod side movement.

Comments or insights?
 

InlineDave87

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Found this cam thats says its supposed to be a stage 1 cam for the 300… is this a pretty decent cam… im guessing its only slightly better than stock (like an RV cam?) but would this still make decent power with the promaxx head?
 

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