Howdy back 170:
I'm assumming that you are working with a kidney-bean shaped combustion chambered head. wat is the casting number? What carb/ignition will you be using? the 170 engine does not have dished pistons, but decking the block to zero as a way to maximise CR will help and maintain a stock or higher CR.
Ironically, some of the best things you can do to help even out a/f distribution are not with the head. AKT what makes for a more efficient distribution at lower rpms are not the same at higher rpms, and vise-versa. Your goal will be to maximize vacuum and compression ratio.
A clean, lean A/F mixture is number one. Maintaining high velocity/high vacuum is also right up there. So higher compression and an efficient valve and valve seat area are critical- not larger valves. Intake is drawn in by vacuum, is wet and being pumped along, so rounding right angle turns helps. I would strive to maximise these issues rather than trying to create lumps or vanes, which will disrupt flow and velocity. Limit your porting to smoothing the transition from machined to cast in the valve pockets, specify at least a three angle valve seat and have the intake valves back cut with a 30 degree angle above the stock 45 degree valve angle. Do not be tempted to open the combustion chamber. You should strive to maintain maximum chamber-to-bore ratio for best quench effect.
Assuming a good ignition system you can fine tune individual cylinders by adjusting the heat range of the spark plugs. This is commonly done to help weak cylinders with oil fouling, but the concept is the same but in reverse. richer cylinders get a slightly hotter plug, leaner cylinders get a slighty cooler heat range. This in indeed fine tuning, and is not likely to effect performance.
Keep us posted on your thoughts and progress.
Adios, David