All Big Six Clifford intake

Relates to all big sixes
Hi folks, new here and I have a question for you guys. I bought a clifford intake off ebay that seems like it made it out the door unfinished. 3 of the 4 carb mounting holes drilled and tapped but the 4th corner is high with no bolt hole. No issue getting this flat and drilled but the other thing I'm curious about is the carb adapter doesn't line up with the opening in the intake. Is this just how they are or is this something else I should fix on this intake? I'll try to attach a picture showing what I'm talking about with the adapter. Adapter came from clifford, not another ebay buy or generic part. Been reading a lot on here and I'll try to post some as I get this truck built. 1967 short bed flare side, pretty sure its a 240 but I haven't measured the stroke yet. Plan is intake, edelbrock 1405, Hedman header for now so I can move it around then 4x4 swap over the winter with some super duty axles I had for another project. Hopefully a nice little driver when its done.20211021_141438.jpg
 

THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER

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Oy.


I have had similar quality experiences with their stuff. My adapters had to have the holes moved to align with the manifold.
And other assorted issues.
 
Little disappointed with this but the price was right and its nothing I can't fix. Did you re-drill the bolt holes in you adapter to shift it over? The problem side is visible in the picture and the opposite side lines up just about perfectly. I was thinking about removing a little material from the intake to get rid of the shelf under the adapter if that makes sense? Then just trim the gasket to fit the new shape. My concern is just not knowing how thick that area is. Looks like maybe the water jacket wraps up the side? One of the plugs is pretty well seized up so I'm working on getting that out to try to see.
 

bubba22349

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Clifford has been using the Weber 2V Carb's for a number of years now so maybe these newer intakes were redesigned some too. I have only had the older made Clifford intakes that were designed to use the Autolite / Motorcraft & Holley 4V or 2V carb adapter plates they used to fit very well back then. I don't think you will have any issues with grinding out that side though. Good luck
 
The one I bought and installed this spring was the exact same way. I put a summit 500 cmf 4v carb on it. I called Clifford and was told that's how they are and will be fine for on the street and if I was racing or something then they suggest cleaning up the "shelf" area. I'm not real pleased with it coming like that. It just seems like piss por quality but I'm running it like that.
 
Thanks for the replys guys. I cleaned up that shelf, drilled and tapped the 4th hole, cleaned up some junk inside the ports amd now the manifold is pretty close to the way it seems like it should have been from the factory. Little headache but I'm excited to see how this goes.
 

F-250 Restorer

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Hello there, tomoconnell. May I make a suggestion? I ran the Hedman header for a decade. I ran into two issues. The first was the heat. You have a lot of surface area on those tubes, and they're all radiating heat right below the carb. If you're going to use a Cliffy intake, that will put one bowl right above the header and it will get cooked. I would run a plate between the intake and the carb to deflect the heat, and think about routing a return line to the gas tank to prevent vapor lock. My probs popped up every summer. Holley carbs, the old zinc finish ones, seem impervious to the heat. Or, I'd use the Holley configuration, with the bowls facing firewall and radiator to avoid the heat.

Oh, and if you do go with an Edelbrock carb, be very careful when you tighten the mixture screws. I had a new one, and went to adjust the idle mix, and one of the needle threads stripped easy as pie and the thing just popped out of the hole. I've done Quadrajets, Autolite 4100's, Summit carbs, and Holley's, and that never happened.

The second issue was the starter. Install a small, efi era starter during the engine install and save yourself from using pry bars and C clamps to change the older style starters.

I have a Cliffy v. cover and the bolt holes are terribly misaligned.

Good luck.

FlKiluw.jpg


Here is a wiring diagram if you do go with the pmgr starter:

ddB5dlK.jpg
 
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THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER

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clifford in my experience is pathetic at many levels, from design to customer service. avoid them.
Indeed they were better when the founder was alive, before other family members assumed control of the company after his death. But let us not forget the great contribution he made by designing and marketing all the great products for our six and for other brands.
R.I.P. Jack Clifford

"Nothing would ever get done if a man waited until he could do it so perfectly that no man could find fault with it"
Author Unknown
 

drag-200stang

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I can tell you that the RobbMc style starter is the lightest at 6.5 lbs a full 10 lbs lighter than the old style and is clockable your shoulder will thank you.
 

HitmanX

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The gear reductions have two models...one for the auto and one manual. No clue what the difference is between them aside from power. One is 1.4kW and one is 1.7kW (auto). Guess I could buy both from the auto store and compare side by side.

I just installed the PMGR on my '88 302 and it was MUCH easier to reinstall around my Hooker LTs. I would imagine on the 300 it would be similar, but as I am on stock manifolds one cannot say. I did pull the PMGR from the 300 when I pulled the precat assy off to gut (already gutted!) and it came out quite easily.
 

BigBlue94

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The gear reductions have two models...one for the auto and one manual. No clue what the difference is between them aside from power. One is 1.4kW and one is 1.7kW (auto). Guess I could buy both from the auto store and compare side by side.

I just installed the PMGR on my '88 302 and it was MUCH easier to reinstall around my Hooker LTs. I would imagine on the 300 it would be similar, but as I am on stock manifolds one cannot say. I did pull the PMGR from the 300 when I pulled the precat assy off to gut (already gutted!) and it came out quite easily.

I installed a Bronco Graveyard PMGR starter on my 300 without removing the clifford headers. I did have to remove the y-pipe, and it has a skinny NP435 transmission so YMMV. It barely squeaked in there too.
 

F-250 Restorer

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After 10 years with the Hedman long tube headers and the old style starter, the starter failed. I had to use C clamps, tie downs, and a pry bar to remove the starter. I replaced it with PMGR starter and did not need any of the above tools to do so. What a joy.

I use a Cliffy intake, shorty headers, and a Cliffy v. Cover. The only one I can find fault with is the v.c. because of mis-aligned bolt holes. But I bought the v.c. on ebay, so for all I know it may have been a second, a casting reject.
 
Thank you guys for all the info and suggestions. I've been looking at some different starter options to make a little more room. probably picking up a donor truck this week for the trans/tcase and some other stuff so I'll swap the newer starter to save some space.
 

sixtseventwo4d

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Typically I use a local rebuilder for starter and alternator rebuilds. His take on the smaller pmgr starters are that they draw less than the older units, the motor spins faster but goes through a gear reduction which can be the weak link. If your trying to crank your engine with a low battery it can strip or damage the reduction gears. That being said when my next starter replacement comes due I'll most likely go with a PMGR type.
 

wallen7

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The gear reductions have two models...one for the auto and one manual. No clue what the difference is between them aside from power. One is 1.4kW and one is 1.7kW (auto). Guess I could buy both from the auto store and compare side by side.

I just installed the PMGR on my '88 302 and it was MUCH easier to reinstall around my Hooker LTs. I would imagine on the 300 it would be similar, but as I am on stock manifolds one cannot say. I did pull the PMGR from the 300 when I pulled the precat assy off to gut (already gutted!) and it came out quite easily.
3/8 difference in engagement depth.
 
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