Cogging, rather blackouts of the engine

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Anonymous

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Hello,

I got the following problem:

When I try to accelerate in the engine has some blackouts.
It is like this: I press the pedal half way down and then there comes a little bit of acceleration, followed by a short blackout of the engine and then there comes the full power which is again followed by a blackout.
The more I press the pedal the heavier these boosts are.

Even while driving at constant speed you feel some wobbling in the car.

When the car idles and I press the pedal without a gear inserted it goes up smoothly and really great.

My setup is:
Total rebuild 2V-Carb with an adapter on my 200ci inline 6.
Today I also changed the ignition coil but it didn´t get any better.


What can that be? Anyone ever experienced something like that?


yours, L.Karl
 
Patrick66":1lezct89 said:
what kind of 2v carb?
Click to expand...

I´m using an autolite 2100 from 64 :)
It´s a 1.02 :)
The ignition system is a 65 distributor with pertronix 1 and flame thrower coil.

yours, Ludwig Karl
 
Question:

If you slowly press your foot down while driving down the road, do you experience the same "blackout" symptoms?

If you mash the pedal quickly, same effect?
 
'65 Loadamatic dizzy won't work with anything but Holley 1100 or 1101. You need a dual advance or DS II dizzy. Someone else here was able to adapt the Pertronix 1 to the later dizzy. Bort 62 should be along any minute for more on DS II. :wink:
 
BIGREDRASA":1kczudd3 said:
Bort 62 should be along any minute for more on DS II. :wink:
Click to expand...

Like a heat seeking missle!

Throw your distributor in the garbage, repent that you wasted money on the pertronix, and see the sticky at the top of this page Re: upgrading to DSII.

The distributor you have will not work without a SCV valve. This is most likely causing your problem. In fact, the symptoms you describe make perfect sense w/ the lack of ANY dynamic advance.

I'm sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but it's the truth. You will probably try to argue with me - but to no avail. If you want your car to run right, this must be done.

Or you must go back to the stock carb w/ SCV.
 
A quick fix in the meantime is to load gobs of initial advance, but that makes it run like crap at low RPMs. I have the same situation that you do, and it runs well at 15-18* initial. Gotta idle it up high, though. It's not good on the transmission for sure but it makes the car driveable.
 
The strange thing is that it was already working perfectly once :)

I just bought this distributor http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Distribu ... 0216826675
I hope that it is the right one.

All this appeared after I lowered the float gauge in my old carburetor. Then these jumps occured there.
I then bought a new carb cause the old one was letting out gas but the problem remained.
One thing that happened to me while I was lowering the float gauge was that a wrench fell happened to fall between the two poles of the battery.
That was why I changed the ignition coil.

So it already perfectly worked with the old distributor and carburetor (which was by the way a 68 one) :lol:
Today I got an appointment with a mechanic...let´s see what comes out.

If anyone else got a solution then write it please :)

yours, L.Karl
 
That dizzy should work, and you should be able to stick a Pertronix 1 into it. Get the Flamethrower Coil, and bypass the Ballast Resistor, so the Coil gets 12V all the time. The Ballast Resistor was put in to eliminate the points burning up. Without points, it become, well, pointless. :wink:
 
your intake manifold may be condensing your fuel mixture back down to liquid form...the 1bbl carb close to the manifold would hold heat to the manifold better, keeping the fuel in a vapor form, try putting a 1bbl back on if you have it...just to test...the 2bbl with carb spacer helps disapate heat better...which sounds like a bad thing...but in this case it may not be....just my 2 cents
 
The ballast resistor is a fat, pink wire plugged into a lead from the "Run" terminal of the starter switch, and then into the wire that goes to the "+" post of the coil.
 
I think I´m getting crazy.
I just exchanged the whole ignition system. Got a brandnew distributor, pertronix, rotor, distributor cap, spark plugs and it still has the same problem as before.
I push the pedal down and it seems for half a second as if the engine goes off and then the whole boost comes.
Actually this was quite funny today as it was a little bit wet and the tires always slithered 8)

btw I got no ballast resistor...full 12V at the coil

There´s one more thing that comes to me:
The clutch is quite hard and we had to install an extra spring that the clutch comes back up. Also the clutch comes quite far up.

One more thing is that the electric choke is connected to the positive part of the coil.

Can anyone of these things be responsible for the problems. Is there any other electric part that might not work properly cause it is only a little pause and then there is the full boost.


It also appears to me as if the engine does have no power at all when releasing the clutch and then when the clutch is fully released it has normal power. That makes it almost impossible to move off on an incline.

That´s all that I obviously could watch. I´m almost giving up.
So all my hope lies here now.

your sincerely, L.Karl
 
Bort62":3c52j9fh said:
BIGREDRASA":3c52j9fh said:
Bort 62 should be along any minute for more on DS II. :wink:
Click to expand...

Like a heat seeking missle!

Throw your distributor in the garbage, repent that you wasted money on the pertronix, and see the sticky at the top of this page Re: upgrading to DSII.

The distributor you have will not work without a SCV valve. This is most likely causing your problem. In fact, the symptoms you describe make perfect sense w/ the lack of ANY dynamic advance.

I'm sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but it's the truth. You will probably try to argue with me - but to no avail. If you want your car to run right, this must be done.
Or you must go back to the stock carb w/ SCV.
Click to expand...
 
@bort62
I won´t change to DSII as it should work with the momentaneous distr. :D
Like I said: The only thing that I haven´t changed yet are the spark plug wires. At the moment I got the Pertronix Flame Thrower ones in.
I just talked to someone on the phone who also installed them on his mustang (was a v8) and he got the same problems as I have. Then he changed it back to stock wires and it dramatically improved. :)

There´s one more thing that I watched. It has these black outs in rpm zone 1000-2000 and when I idle it there the engine shakes a little every 2-3 seconds. When I then unplug vacuum on the distributor the shaking stops. The shaking also slightly gets better when I rotate the distributor clockwise.
What the heck am I dealing with here?

yours sincerely, L. Karl
 
Looser,

If I understand your description, you are using the stock load-o-matic distrbutor with a carburetor that does not have a SCV valve.

This combination is incompatible and will cause problems exactly as you describe. I'm not sure how else to explain this...
 
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