Cooling concerns- Aussie XFlow head on US 200 block

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So- First-post Newbie here. Am the not-quite-yet owner of a '67 'stang with a 200 I6. I'm already plotting out the go-fast goodies, and am looking for ways to make the motor more powerful.

I read a linked article on the FordSix website (news link) about modifying a US 200 block and an Aussie 250 XFlow head to fit together. The HP implications are quite yummy. However, I do have a concern.

The article talks about blocking off several coolant passages in the block and the head. Will this create hot-spots in the motor that may shorten lifespan? Or worse yet- lead to massive overheating and head warpage?

Not knowing the innards of these motors very well (yet), it seems like it might create some cooling problems. Anyone out there have any direct experience with this mod? Any long-term data on survivability? What sorts of driving conditions?

I'm looking to build a fast daily driver that could be an occasional open-track car or a long road-trip car. Reliable HP is my main goal from the driveline.

Any advice for the clue-impaired newbie would be appreciated.

thanks,

--mikey
 
Hello there Mikey! I don't know anyting about the mods to make the X-flow work on a us block but I just noticed that you are located in SLO! Me too man! I think that makes three of us now. But I think that sixfiend hasn't been on in a while. What do you do in SLO?

Anyways... If you check my website out, you can see some of the mods I have done and I highly recommend them. The basic starting for most of us is to upgrade the ignition to D2 system, exhaust with header, hotter cam, and upgrade intake. There are many here that have done a crossflow so they should give you some more information on that.

Later,
Paul
 
I would be doubtful of any major cooling issues, but the fabrication and install problems that you have to surmount are more of concern. It's one of the reasons I still advocate an Aussie crossflow motor in entirety as a straightforward solution to the HP/driveability/installation questions.

Regards, Adam.
 
That's another one of my open options. Any ideas on price for importing a whole Xflow motor?

--mikey
 
oops! Forgot to mention. I'm not so worried about the particulars of the fabrication. I've got access to some pretty good equipment, and I'm a manufacturing engineer by trade. The technical aspects of the article seemed really straightforward.

my main concerns are reliability, cost, and availability.

also, any cost/availability info out there on the aussie OHC 6's?

While i'm dreaming and exploring costs, may as well dream big!

--mikey
 
Mikey,

I have a complete 250 EFI Crossflow/T5 in my Mustang and am very happy with the power, fuel efficiency, and reliability. The head is a great design and the block is as reliable as an anvil. As far as I can tell, there are no reliability problems with this engine.

I'm not yet ready to fire up the 200 x-flow hybrid, but am very close. I still have some chassis work to complete first.

I share your concerns over coolant flow within the head. I believe that opening up the three previously unused passages on the opposite side will mitigate the loss of flow from the blocked off passages. I think that the passages are more for steam relief in the block than for coolant flow in the head, but we'll see.

If heat buildup becomes a problem, I have a Plan B and even a Plan C that might cure it, but one step at a time. The outcome of this experiment will determine what Hybrid #2 looks like.

Frankly, the biggest problem with the hybrid is the lack of clearnace under the intake manifold for a distributor due to the short deck. The stock cap is right up against the stock intake with the wire jammed between; not an ideal setup sincy you have to remove the intake to service the cap. I'm fabricating some crab-style caps with side terminals, but that's a work in progress and I haven't tested it yet.

I've already said, though, that Hybrid #2 will be the last crossflow I build once I figure out any coolant issues. If I do another aussie engine, it'll be a late model 4.0 OHC with a 12 counterbalance crank and a stand-alone engine management system from Wolf or Electromotive.
 
There are guys who can import a whole crossflow and bell and bits for you, like Ausheads, or maybe AzCoupe. "Mopping up" the little details is one problem, though. The cost of importing the things like another rotor or cap, a timing set, whatever can add up if you haven't factored it in. That aside, any quality build up costs money and the pros feel the results are decent value still.

Also, there is the option of importing a (mild) built, assembled motor ready to roll, but the warranty would be about worthless in another country! Although, you shouldn't need it. At a guess, this would run to USD$2400 plus customs/clearance. For the (mimimum) cost of packing and freighting one motor/bell you can actually move about three or four. I have just paid (Aussie bucks) $265 for a crate, and $455 for freight to the West Coast; multiply by 0.7 for US dollars.

OHC motors from "ED/EF/EL" series Falcons are very cheap and available. But as Jack says, you need a system like Wolf to run them. Plus the well-assembled crossflows can outgun all but the most built OHC's. Expect some fabbing to get one running in an early Ford. I think the DOHC turbo would be a major challenge to install and run. But a crossflow with a turbo can outgun a twin-blower V8 - we have the proof here on FordSix: 10.9 vs 14.1 on the quarter.

Sorry for the slight rambling discourse. Got plenty on today.

Cheers, Adam.
 
8)

Why dont I just import a xflow motor?

1) It will be cheaper to modify the 200 block and head than it will cost to purchase and ship a 21 xflow motor here.

2) Once I do get said motor I now have to fabricate a rear sump oilpan since the Fox body Mustangs use a rear sump oilpan. Since the classic Stangs use a front sump pan the classic Stangers can use a 250 front sump pan.

3) After I get a 221 xflow, I now have to find a C4 bellhousing and flexplate and torque converter to fit the 221 motor. IIRC it uses the same bellhousing as the 302/5.0L.

With current setup all I have to do is adapt a crossflow head. But I am waiting for Jack to get his running.

Also I have a theory about the lack of cooling holes on lifter side.

I have seen racing blocks where guys have welded up the holes in the block and head and made the holes in the end larger. The reason for this wa it made the water flow through one end of the head and out the other, providing better water movement through the head which cooled it better.

Also I could get the piston skirts dry film lubricant coated which significantly reduces friction and the top of the piston and combustion chamber dry film coated with a dry film thermal barrier wich reflects heat back into the combustion process increasing its effeciency. This would also reduce much of the heat going into the head and is supposed to aid in reducing detonation.
 
That's the flow path on all our sixes as well.

The openings that I'm blocking off look rather large, but the correspoding hole in the block and head gasket are only 3/16" (5mm). That's why I tend to think they are for steam relief in the block and not actively cooling the head. Steam will be purged from the opposite side of the block in my mod.
 
8)

If you look at a 302 head gasket they have small holes between the cylinders that are close to 3/16"-1/4" and thats what they are for is steam venting.
 
I thought the hybrid was already operational (originally). My bad. I'm interested in knowing how it comes out.

So, it sounds like the "import a whole motor" route is a good way to go at this point. I'm more interested in building one up myself, rather than buying a mildly built one. It's not as easy, but there's more of a sense of accomplishment. And it's less money.

MustangSix- Is your motor the TBI or Multi-Point model?

I'm new to the mysteries of the Fuel Injection System. In terms of total engine management, I realize it's the probably the best way to go, but I'm also much more familiar with that old carb thingy and vacuum advance timing.

Any upfront advice there? Systems to consider? Things to avoid? Is EFI going to be "that much better" than a good carb? I should make that decision before I start ordering parts. Better to pay for shipping once.

Thanks all for the help.

--mikey

Measure with a micrometer. Mark with chalk. Cut with an axe.
 
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