deperately need help with my 38 DGMS on my 200ci

I have a 1966 mustang with a 200ci motor that the Pervious Owner installed a clifford adapter and 38DGMS. Car was sitting since 2006 when I bought it. I have drained the fuel, replaced the sending unit in tank, replaced fuel filter. Car has pertronix ignition with MSD flame thrower coil. I installed a set of classic inline dual headers. I just had the carb rebuilt.. Car requires full choke to start and half choke to attempt to get it to idle. Car will not stay idling and will die when trying to drive it. I am convinced it is a fuel problem, but just don't see what adjustments I can make to the carb to make it better. The idle screws do not have any effect on the car. I can start it and keep it running with starter fluid.

here are 3 videos of it starting and die'ing.

http://www.thevintagecar.com/forums/fbb ... G_0299.MOV

http://www.thevintagecar.com/forums/fbb ... G_0300.MOV

http://www.thevintagecar.com/forums/fbb ... G_0301.MOV


If you were me, what would you do??? I really don't have the money for a new carb, but am desperate to get the car running and driving.. I still have to put an exhaust on the car after I get it running..

I would REALLY appreciate any guidance or help.. I am in the Dallas/Fort Worth area.
 
are those vids taken after you warm up? If not, I'm not surprised by looking at them, you don't look to be running much choke for a cold engine and need to keep it on to warm up. My car takes several minutes before the choke comes off.
 
It's as warm as I could get it.. even with full choke, the car would start and die.. I can get the car pretty warm/hot, but it takes continuely starting and restarting the car...
 
:hmmm: In your videos in sounds like it's just running out of gas. Possible causes are rust and crud in fuel tank, plugged up or rusted out fuel line, a bad fuel cap or wrong type (needs to be a vented one) and or a weak fuel pump. number of low and no cost ways to test for those problems. Tank would need to be pulled and cleaned IE boiled out or shake some bolts, nuts, or gravel around to knock out rust than rinse it out or find a new replacement. Plugged or no tank venting, you could open fuel cap so is on first lock or take it off and see if that works no air in = no fuel out. For the fuel line disconnect pump inlet and at tank pickup use some air to blow through it to see if plugged, also inspect the line front to back for signs of a hole (moisture) or replace with new line. And then you could also take a section of known good or a new rubber fuel line from pump inlet and use with a gas can to see if you can get it to run on its own that will tell you if the pump is working. Best of luck on your project :nod:
 
Is there a fuel pressure regulator on it? You're supposed to with the Webers, so if he did, I'd check that too. Maybe it's set too low, or just broken?
 
Did you leave the fuel sock off the fuel sender pickup or replace it with a new one? If it's off and the tank has bunch of trash and or rust in it the fuel pump will draw it up until it plugs up the something like the fuel tank pickup, fuel line, filter, and or the carb.

Few other things to try. Do a volume test disconnect fuel line at the carb and run a rubber hose run it into a can or jar for a few seconds to see the output amount volume, try it both with and with out the filter. Try blowing through the fuel filter sometimes they can plug up quickly, if there's crud in the system. After all that and if its OK last you need to open the carb see if fuel inlet to the needle and seat is clean and open, also check that the float level is set correctly
 
The fuel sending unit had the filter on it. I did replace the filter again on the glas in-line one. I have pulled the line off the carb and gas does pump out. There is a redline fuel pressure regulator. I took the screw cap off and tried backing out the screw.

I have tore down the carb 4 times now. The bowls are completely dry so not a drop is making it inside.

On a side note, how do you set the float level? The float has a brass pointed deal that is attacked by a tiny wire loop. I am leaning towards that as a problem..with the top off, I could blow into the inlet and hear air with the float dangling. When it was up, no air would get through. When I put the top on the carb, I could not blow air into it, but thought that was because it is now sealed.
 
Float is set by turning the top cover so its vertical with float down (the needle is seated without the weight of the float) then measure distance between cover and float. Drop is 51 MM, height is 41 for a brass float. 35 MM is height for a plastic float and the drop is 51 MM.

http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/38_dgas_tunning.htm

:hmmm: I doubt that is your problem though by that description. You could try bypassing that regulator it may be plugged up or stuck shut from sitting so long you can get kits for them. Or you could disassemble it carefully and clean and reassemble it, if fuel won't go through the regulator then that's were to look.

Some of info on the Carb settings

http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/3 ... unning.htm
 
Have you looked at CI that sponsors this site? They have carbs and parts

http://www.classicinlines.com/products.asp?cat=147

Redline in Torrance Calif. been in business for many years.

http://www.redlineweber.com/

I used to buy parts and carbs from CB years ago too.

http://www.cbperformance.com/

There are some non Licensed Weber copy's and not even all Licensed Webers are created equally it depends on country they where made in. Kits should work the same for all of them

This is also a US company, have not bought from them.

http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/Carbure ... QgodQTIAXw

There are others also some are on Ebay again have not bought from any but above company's
 
Just to narrow the focus, and give some steps to the process...as you've suspected it sounds like a fuel delivery problem. As bubba suggested volume test is first.

Step 1)Take fuel line loose after the pump (but before the carb) and you should get about a pint per 30secs of cranking.

robert_t_wallace":exfy73s3 said:
I have pulled the line off the carb and gas does pump out.

...Step 2) no fuel after cranking, then try bubba's next suggestion. Get a gas can and connect fuel line before the pump into the can, crank it and bet she fires. Problem sounds like it is before the pump. Likely in the line between the pump and the tank, or pickup at the tank has reclogged from sediment.

*Don't worry about fuel pressure regulator initially until you can get a gauge ($10 at harbor freight) and calibrate correctly. A regulator is going to tend to fail in the "on" position (providing too much pressure instead of limiting it).

**Never use old gas. If substituting a gas can inline before the pump to draw fuel from get's you up and running, then drop the lines going back to the tank and the tank itself, clean and/or replace the tank and lines as bubba suggested. Today's ethanol fuel is 'varnish by the gallon'. Good luck :thumbup:
 
bubba22349":pvkej32g said:
You could try bypassing that regulator it may be plugged up or stuck shut from sitting so long you can get kits for them. Or you could disassemble it carefully and clean and reassemble it if fuel won't go through the regulator then that's were to look.

Good call bubba :thumbup:

Frankenstang":pvkej32g said:
Don't worry about fuel pressure regulator initially

My bad for lending any misdirection...obviously was not the last place to check :oops:
:rolflmao:
Cheers for the fix RW! :beer:
 
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