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Anonymous
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Yes I'm still off in the head. What would cause this condition?
Am I off the hook it it's genetic?
Am I off the hook it it's genetic?
Howdy Back Okie:
Obviously the front three cylinders are running leaner than the back three. I can't quit tell for sure from the photo, but my guess is that you have the carb mounted with the throttle shaft perpendicular to the crankshaft line. This orientation is likely causing the rich/lean difference in distribution because of the throttle butterflys favoring the back half.
If you can, try mounting the carb so that the throttle shaft is parallel to the crankshaft.
Equal intake distribution is always a challenge on an inline six.
That's my guesstimate.
Adios, David
Obviously the front three cylinders are running leaner than the back three. I can't quit tell for sure from the photo, but my guess is that you have the carb mounted with the throttle shaft perpendicular to the crankshaft line. This orientation is likely causing the rich/lean difference in distribution because of the throttle butterflys favoring the back half.
If you can, try mounting the carb so that the throttle shaft is parallel to the crankshaft.
Equal intake distribution is always a challenge on an inline six.
That's my guesstimate.
Adios, David
Well here's my two cents worth. it looks like all the cylinders are running lean. the first three do appear to be even leaner than the back. But the header pipe looks as if it is running rich. So my guess is that the high speed jet on the carb. should be increased a couple of sizes. And I think I would drop down on the power valve. Also make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks which would cause you to run lean.
Gary
Gary
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Anonymous
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Thanks for the observations, I think both of you are on to something. It certainly does seem air flow would be improved if the 2300 was turned sideways. How could that be accomplished?
The machinist thought fuel delivery also. I'm thinking the extra black spacer I put on to raise ithe carb may be having some effect.
Also my intake is not level where the carb sit's causing it to point very slightly towards the rear.
Does low compression figure in? I don't have the cc figures yet but plugging in 58 gives me 8.1.1
I am running 58 jets and 6.5 PV. I have the adjustajet, never installed. Think I'll give it a try.
The machinist thought fuel delivery also. I'm thinking the extra black spacer I put on to raise ithe carb may be having some effect.
Also my intake is not level where the carb sit's causing it to point very slightly towards the rear.
Does low compression figure in? I don't have the cc figures yet but plugging in 58 gives me 8.1.1
I am running 58 jets and 6.5 PV. I have the adjustajet, never installed. Think I'll give it a try.
Don, you might want to angle mill the carburetor adapter at an angle so the carburetor sits level.
Also where are you hooking the pcv valve hose. If you have a late model head change the pcv to the vacuum source at the back of the carburetor.
Also you can jet the carburetor say to a 59 jet at the front of the carb & leave the 58 at the back. This will give you a consistant fuel mixture to all cylinders.It is very common to stagger jet the carb to compensate for this condition.
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... 270aeeec2b
Look at my setup with the adapter angle milled. Hope this helps. William :idea:
Also where are you hooking the pcv valve hose. If you have a late model head change the pcv to the vacuum source at the back of the carburetor.
Also you can jet the carburetor say to a 59 jet at the front of the carb & leave the 58 at the back. This will give you a consistant fuel mixture to all cylinders.It is very common to stagger jet the carb to compensate for this condition.
http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... 270aeeec2b
Look at my setup with the adapter angle milled. Hope this helps. William :idea:
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Anonymous
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Should I have the machinist open up the area between the holes? Or get a 2 bbl to 4 bbl adaptor, open up the whole area and mount it sideways?
Don, i maybe out to lunch with my post. I didn't realize you had an oz head. Still check where you have the pcv hookup. You don't want to lean out the front cylinders. I thought you had a modified log setup. My bad. william
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Anonymous
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wsa111":33fybdhc said:
I had not thought of doing the jets that way. The pcv valve is hooked to the carb base.
I 'm wondering if the part of the problem might be that the carb is attached to the adaptor, which is open, then to the black spacer that has holes like the intake.
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Anonymous
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Still looking for a solution here. Mounting the carb sideways makes sense but I don't see any easy way to do it. Was wondering if the dual exhaust might come into play as the front three are seperate from the back three. The front pipe crosses over and then exits out the back so it is longer than the other. Also he installed it too low and the pipe has been flattened on the bottom having come into contact with the pavement a couple of times.
Should I hog out the intake to be rid of the two holes? Just have one long oblong opening?
It's odd that there is such a pronounced difference between the front and back.
I will be installing the adjustajet but I have to solve the overall problem for it to do me any good. I am wanting to go to TBI but it won't work right either with one O2 sensor installed unless this is solved.
Thanks,
Don
Should I hog out the intake to be rid of the two holes? Just have one long oblong opening?
It's odd that there is such a pronounced difference between the front and back.
I will be installing the adjustajet but I have to solve the overall problem for it to do me any good. I am wanting to go to TBI but it won't work right either with one O2 sensor installed unless this is solved.
Thanks,
Don
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Anonymous
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I think the open spacer to holed intake could be causing a problem. My friend had an open spacer on his 302 to a dual plane intake and it ran terrible (previous owner) like that.
I think what's happening here is that you're seeing the effect of air/fuel separation. Suspended droplets are being redirected toward the rear because of the angle of the throttle blade.
You could turn the carb 90 degrees pretty easiy with a custom spacer.
Another solution may be to add an additional two hole spacer under the carb with openings to match the intake. A longer opening above the floor will help straighten the flow from the carb.
A more radical solution would be to put vanes in a spacer under the carb to help straighten the flow a bit. It wouldn't take much.
Is the manifold heated? Vaporizing the fuel droplets on the floor would help alleviate that situation too.
You could turn the carb 90 degrees pretty easiy with a custom spacer.
Another solution may be to add an additional two hole spacer under the carb with openings to match the intake. A longer opening above the floor will help straighten the flow from the carb.
A more radical solution would be to put vanes in a spacer under the carb to help straighten the flow a bit. It wouldn't take much.
Is the manifold heated? Vaporizing the fuel droplets on the floor would help alleviate that situation too.
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Anonymous
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Thanks for the replies, my immediate plan is to have the intake opened up and mount it back on using the additional spacer. I have another intake on the way so there'll be one to play with. I am convinced having seen the Argie manifold this morning that the opening should be be changed and that ideally the throttle plates would open towards the fender helping to offset the longer runners of 1 and 6.
Additionally, I have been having a problem with the carb, having to pop the pedal to get it to idle down all the way. I thought it was because my return spring was not strong enough but having removed it I see the problem is with the carb. There is some resistance and the throttle plates are squeaking at that last little bit. Should I use some emory cloth to polish up the plates or bore. Is this a common problem?
Don
PS. The manifold is heated.
Additionally, I have been having a problem with the carb, having to pop the pedal to get it to idle down all the way. I thought it was because my return spring was not strong enough but having removed it I see the problem is with the carb. There is some resistance and the throttle plates are squeaking at that last little bit. Should I use some emory cloth to polish up the plates or bore. Is this a common problem?
Don
PS. The manifold is heated.
Open up the intake, That's how I was running the 2v intake, also recheck your intake gaskets for a vacumn leak, I have found that it is a very common problem and would account for the front three being different than the back three cyls. And I still say you must dyno the engine, during the dyno they will chart out your air fuel ratio from idel to WOT, my engine is running 12:1 A/R above 15:1 is quite lean. good luck
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Thanks Ben, I have found a chassis dyno ad in Jacksonville. http://www.dynotune.com/
Per Xecute/Xtaxi I am installing the adjustajet that I have long had on the shelf. Thanks to both of you for bringing up the dyno again. Should I tell them to do the carb adjustments for me and should I be prepared with any extra pieces or tools. Sometimes ignorance is not bliss, I hate showing up there not knowing what to expect.
I've got the new intake gaskets from Mike, I'll check it over for leaks.
Don
Per Xecute/Xtaxi I am installing the adjustajet that I have long had on the shelf. Thanks to both of you for bringing up the dyno again. Should I tell them to do the carb adjustments for me and should I be prepared with any extra pieces or tools. Sometimes ignorance is not bliss, I hate showing up there not knowing what to expect.
I've got the new intake gaskets from Mike, I'll check it over for leaks.
Don
The Holley 2300 is easy to change jets, I'd take a extra set with me when you dyno the engine, at least two jet sizes larger. Which power valve are you running? I have found the holley's on our sixes run best with a 75 to 85 power valve.
